Muzzleloader cleaning

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warbirdlover

New member
I have been using Blackhorn 209 in my CVA Optima .50 caliber (stainless barrel) and it works great but....

I had a lot of fouling after 5 shots and it really affected the grouping. I started to get "flyers" and had to quit sighting it in.

Today I tried a couple White Hot pellets in it and it grouped very good (I use Powerbelt 245 gr "green tip" bullets). I only had to fire 3 shots to get it sighted in.

When done the barrel was really a mess.

I have been using different solvents to clean it (Slip2000 or MP-Pro7}with decent results but after cleaning with those tried some patches with plain old hot water and it got more out! I'm almost thinking the water works better then the solvents.

What do you experts use and do some work better on certain kinds of powder? I'm just trying to make this cleanup as painless as possible. How many shots do you take before you clean it? Are Pyrodex pellets better in regard to fouling the barrel?

Thanks for the help.
 
D

Doyle

New member
What made you use solvents? Solvents are for petroleum based powders. Water is best for non-petroleum based powders. Black powder (and BP substitutes) are non-petroleum based. Try adding a few drops of dish soap to your hot water. I think you'll be pleased.
 
P

Pahoo

New member
I never use straight water.

After a shoot, I use .... 3:1 Ballistol
Sometimes .... Windex
In the shop, I use ....... Mineral Spirits
Then ...... ..... Good old TC-13
Or ... Lyman Bore Shine


All are water based Solvents ...... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
M

maillemaker

New member
Yup, many a BP firearm has been cleaned with nothing more than hot soapy water.

Of course you always want to oil the barrel after cleaning.

I also use Balistol.

Steve
 
B

Bezoar

Moderator
what you have been using are also petroleum based lubricants.

I just use triple 7 cleaner in the squirt bottle or if its rather nasty looking, soak some patches in #9 and then clean that out with pure silicone.
 
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Sure Shot Mc Gee

New member
Shoot Lee/Real bullets instead. Never shot them Lee/ Real's myself but others here and there on the different forms have. And some said they believe their barrels were a-bit cleaner after a shooting session when Real's were being used. As far as barrel care & cleaning. That depends on how cheap a route you want to follow? {Store bought or Home brews?} as I like to call em.
 
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bn12gg

New member
Just me, but I use water, Windex (Walmart substitute) to get out the real crud once home for cleaning. I don't waste Ballistol on the front end to cleaning -- saves $$'s. Once patches come out reasonably clean I push a couple Ballistol soaked patches down the barrel. Seems to work. Sometimes I finish off with a little Bore Butter. A couple days after shooting a couple patches with Ballistol on them prove a quality clean up. No rust test!

Just one approach.

.02

David :)
 
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shortwave

New member
HOT, HOT water and some Dawn dish detergent for a deep clean.

Ballistol, Windex or TC-13 are excellent to use on patchs in the field between shots when zeroing. Helps keep buildup from happening.
 
T

twins

New member
Do NOT use water-based solvents for Blackhorn 209. It will make much worst and everything will be a slimy mess. Do use petroleum solvents for Blackhorn.

As for your groupings going south, did you clean your breech plug flash channel regularly? I usually clean my breech plug flash channel every 3-5 shots. It will clog and affect your groupings. The powerbelt skirt may also be leaving some plastic fouling which may also affect your groupings especially if you do not let the barrel cool between shots.
 
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shortwave

New member
Looks as though you're right twins.

Buckhorn website recommends a petroleum based cleaner.

Thanks for the heads-up.
 
B

BirchOrr

New member
In-line 101

Regardless of what powder/sabot you use, fouling cleanup is simple.

Rule #1.
In-lines are slightly different than cap and ball guns and need to be treated as such. They shoot sabot's, an entirely different animal. Sabot's are plastic and in addition to powder fouling, you also have plastic fouling.

Rule #2.
Any and all fouling needs to be removed every time you fire the rifle. The best and easiest time to do this is immediately after you take a shot. The barrel is warm and fouling is soft. These firearms group the best when they are clean thus, every shot is the same.

Rule #3
After firing, run several wet patches soaked with TC # 13 bore cleaner, Windex, Simple Green, whatever. Be sure to squeeze the excess moisture from the patch (so you don't foul the nipple). After they start to run fairly clean, repeat with dry patches.

Rule #4
Re-load (with whatever) and run a patch treated with Ballistol (non-petroleum) (when hunting) to protect the barrel. You are good to go.

Non-rules
1) Pellets are easier/quicker than loose powder. There is no advantage in using White Hots. The only difference is, the fouling comes out grey instead of black and there is no less of it.

2) Most in-lines have a 28 inch barrel. A 28" barrel can't burn 150 grains of powder/pellets. The maximum is 120 grains. T7 makes "Magnum" pellets in 60 grains each. 2X60=120. If you like the convenience of pellets, use these. If you prefer loose powder, use whatever you want, no need to ever exceed 120 grains.

Rule #5
You simply can't load/shoot and in-line numerous times without cleaning the barrel between shots. They don't like it and you won't group worth a hoot, no matter what you do. Besides that, final cleaning before storage will be much more of a task. I know this for a fact as I constantly clean up many an in-line for people who have neglected them. I do my best to educate them, save their rifle and keep it a sweet shooter.

I hope this helps you and all the best!

Birch
 
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BirchOrr

New member
Forgot...

... to mention. You should not need "solvents" made for smokeless powder. Only exception would be in the event you have plastic fouling from a sabot. In this event use "Shooters Choice". It is the only product I know of that will remove plastic fouling.

:cool:

Birch
 
W

warbirdlover

New member
I clean the breech plug by soaking in the CVA parts soaker and then go after the rest.

I use PowerBelt bullets because they group really good in my CVA (company that owns CVA owns PowerBelt and the barrels shoot them really good) and also only have a little plastic on the bottom of the base. SIL, and all relatives drop their deer on the spot with them. I'll stay with them.

Interesting fact about the water based petroleum based solvents. Both the solvents I was using are water based.

I'm going with the hot soapy water from now on. I've got a stainless barrel so not sure if I want to run oil patches down it after cleaning and drying the barrel. I will for storing but not during the hunting season.

Forgot. I take the breech plug out and run the brush or patches from that end toward the muzzle like you would a bolt action rifle. I think that keeps the crud out of the threads. Is that correct?

Thanks for the replies! Any more suggestions keep 'em coming! I appreciate it.
 
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D

Doyle

New member
Forgot. I take the breech plug out and run the brush or patches from that end toward the muzzle like you would a bolt action rifle. I think that keeps the crud out of the threads. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Absolutley. I remove the breech plug and swab between EVERY shot while at the range. That is the only way to absolutely ensure that my shot on an animal will match what I did at the range.
 
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kopek

New member
I only use GOEX but the best cleaning agent I have ever found is Moosemilk available from the Winchester Sutler. Nearly 40 years and it hasn't let me down yet.
 
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