Mosin Nagant Build.

Now before I even go into this I would like to say that I realize completely that it would be easier and cost efficient in the end to just buy a already made entry level rifle for what i will end up spending on this build that being said please no criticism on my choice thank you.

Now to what I want to do, I'm not sure about any of this other then I would like to end up with a good Mosin capable of 200 yard shots on whitetail deer and hogs comfortably. Of what little research I have done its obvious I will need a new trigger buts that's all I really know that I need, I do realize I'm gonna want a new stock so I have that picked out and I will be putting the scope mount kit so I can put a scope on it but aside from all that I really don't know what to do. My questions are what is the difference in the M91/30 and the M44? I have also read that the Mosins do not have a manual safety is there any way to fix that? Any help would be great. Also with all of this I have a gunsmith for a friend so he will be doing most of the work I just want to atleast learn something about it before I jump into a project.
 

Mosin-Marauder

New member
Find a Mosin or a Mauser that has already been "sporterized" please. If you just want to make shots out to 200 yards, It wouldn't be necessary to "sporterize" an otherwise intact rifle. I've made shots consistently hit out to 200 meters using irons and surplus ammo at an 8" Gong with an original rifle.

The M44 is a carbine with a permanently mounted bayonet. The M91/30 is an updated version of the 1891 long rifle, and does not have a permanently mounted bayonet. I've said it before and I'll say it again, Mosins do have a manual safety it's just rather hard to manipulate, you can make it easier to manipulate by buying one of these "pull ring" type things that attach to the cocking knob, but you really don't need a manual safety as long as you use the safety between your ears.

If you do decide to "sporterize" a complete rifle, do some degree of research just to make sure you're not destroying a training rifle or one that hasn't been factory refurbished or an ex sniper or something.

I hear the Boyds stock and the Timney Trigger are good. As the Timney is adjustable.

Good luck.
 

ligonierbill

New member
I inherited a 91 with a replacement overmolded stock, otherwise completely stock. Even with these old eyes, I could hit the vitals of a deer at 200 with the original sights. I've seen worse triggers, but an upgrade is almost always worthwhile. That said, without a safety, I think I'd stay with the military trigger. I have some commercial Wolf soft point 180's that go 2,600, and I load Sierra Pro Hunter 150's (0.311 #2300) at 2,760 with a very low SD. If you mount a scope, those will get you way past 200. The bore is likely 0.310 - 0.312, but have your smith check it. I suggest that you work it in stages, see how you do with a new stock only, then another upgrade, etc. Some of these shoot real good, others no so much no matter what you do to them. Good shooting!
 

T. O'Heir

New member
"...200 yard shots on whitetail deer and hogs..." A stock milsurp will do that with no fuss. Use good ammo. Mind you, if you can't hit a 9" pie plate, every time, off hand, at 200, don't even think about taking the shot.
 

skizzums

New member
I picked p a Finnish mosin with no stock on the cheap, I guess around a year ago, 100$. I had intended to find a Finnish stock for it, seeing that there are gazillions of mosin stocks all over the web, I thought it would be an easy venture. I did find a couple, in the 4-600$ range. at that point, noticing the guts of the barrel weren't beautiful either, I decided to just chop it up and have fun. you should get your mosin first, and see if it shoots to your demand, then decide the upgrades your need. or if you just WANT to sport/bubba a mosin, I am all for that too, their are plenty of pristine samples out there for the history books and museums.

if you buy one, and bagged it can't do you better than 3-4", they fix may be simple. I will leave the trigger out of it, although the trigger may make you a better shooter, it does nothing to the actual accuracy of the gun, and with enough practice you would be able to shoot the same with the 100$ upgrade or not, the Timney safety is nice, but not needed. that said, I do have the 3# Timney, and have not regretted it.

1st problem area is the stock. your choice whether you want to put the stock in the closet and buy another, or bed the original. even the couple mosin's I decided to keep "original", I still bedded the stock, and it makes a great improvement, one rifle made a huge difference in accuracy. I also love the aftermarket stocks available, and the Archangel I bought is about as tight as you can get from the factory, it also has a pre-fit inlet if you really wanna go for that saftey'd trigger.

2nd problem is the crown, on the long 91/30's hey are ridiculous, that alone may be a reason to get the 44, they seem to have done a better job after chopping it down. If you get a 91/30 and you want a recrown, it will unfortunately require cutting off about an inch of the barrel, then dealing with sights.

If you should find a decent condition specimen, with a decent chamber/bore/barrel, then do a good bedding job, it'll likely get you to your desired level of accuracy to 200 yards easily, especially with some decent ammo. If you are okay with a scout scope type set-up, the mounts are affordable and not permanent, I would personally want a scope of some type hunting to those ranges, but I am t an expert rifleman, maybe you are fine with irons. I much prefer are standard scope set-up, which required drilling and tapping of the receiver, the base mount is super affordable, but also requires buying a pre-curved bolt section or modifying the original(I modified).
the other option for optics, if required, is the "sniper" type mount, I know little about this, so you will need to investigate the process, but I believe requires no bolt mod(maybe I am wrong).

but like I said, you need to get your rifle and then access the accuracy with a couple types of rounds. I have found in my travels that 44 is generally more accurate without any work that the 91/30, which I assume would solely be the fact tha it has a better crown. when you get your rifle, check out the vids from iraqiveteran8888 on sporterizing your mosin, he does great videos on the bedding and other simple modifications, as well as the deeper stuff.

here's the vid on bedding .note it has like ten parts, as well as installing pillars if so desired.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFeDm7DMgzo

if you WANT to sporterize for fun, then go for it, I had a great time and didn't spend a great deal of money, I ended up with very interesting, fun and decently accurate rifle. overall I think the whole thing was less than 400$ and lots of time. Mny will tell you to go buy a hunting rifle with optic for 300$, and that's also a great option, although not very much fun.

ATI scope base for receiver(drill and tap + bolt needed)
http://www.amazon.com/ATI-Mosin-Nagant-Scope-Handle/dp/B000O7D2XG
Brass-Stacker "scout" type(very little alteration)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0VCCA0TERWR87G3TQBGM
Triggers are pricey and if not restocking, will require cutting of wood if you want safety, but it is really freaking sweet.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/559350/timney-trigger-mosin-nagant-1-1-2-to-4-lb-steel-matte

after that, your imagination is the limit. stock choices are endless, with custom woodmade stocks to plastic "tacti-cool" stocks like mine. their is a member here that makes amazing pieces that I hope to purchase in the future. he also sells nice bent custom bolts
http://www.biggorillagunworks.com/

my baby, shoots pretty good. 1 1/2 on good days.
 

dakota.potts

New member
I would start with a decent rifle with a clean bore and good rifling. For the most part, even a rifle without a great barrel should be capable of the 4 MOA groups you're talking about. Depending on your budget, you could get a new barrel blank turned that would be capable of better accuracy and have it threaded onto the receiver, but that could be very expensive.

A Timney trigger is nice, but not necessary for the type of accuracy you're talking about.

Some people like to either bed the firearm or, more commonly, shim it. Josh Smith with Smith Sights (a member here) sells shim kits which keep the receiver and barrel attached to a rigid point and not to the stock which can flex. I believe the Finns did this, and their rifles are known for accuracy.

Really the most difficult thing about shooting accurately with the Mosins (in my experience) is getting them to hit point of aim when they're hitting anywhere from 6-12" high at 100 yards. I have Smith Sights I'm going to install for that purpose. I need to get some new barrel bands for my rifle (long story) and I was going to wait to install the sight until I get the new barrel bands in since that's the best time to install them.
 

tobnpr

New member
Start with a sound foundation- well defined rifling and little to no pitting from the corrosive ammo in the bore.

The only way to change the safety from being the cocking knob is to install a Timney.

I have done some M44's for customers, but always with the barrel cut and re-crowned right at the step in diameter where the bayonet is installed. This results in a barrel length of about 17-1/2". IMO, the bayonet affects barrel harmonics and thus accuracy- would not be my choice for an accurate shooter unless altered as I just mentioned. For a hunting rifle, the 91/30 barrel length and contour is satisfactory- but again, for a target rifle where the barrel may get hot, I've found that a shortened barrel is less subject to stringing shots.
 

Josh Smith

Moderator
Hello,

There's just not a whole heck of a lot you need to do to a Mosin to make it shoot well.

Are you familiar with the stages in modifying car performance? I look at this sorta' like that.

For me, the stages are these:

Stage 0: Stock.

Stage 1: Shimmed action and barrel, polished trigger, improved sights.

Stage 2: Stage 1 + aftermarket trigger and pillar bedding

Stage 3: Stage 2 + bent bolt, optics, aftermarket stock, glass bedding

Mine's Stage 2 or maybe 2+. It shoots at sub-MOA at times. Honestly, I'm not capable of shooting it with irons as well as it can shoot, and I don't have glass mounted.

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Clark

New member
I just got back from hunting.
My friend shot an antelope with a Mosin Nagant with original barrel.
He designed his own custom scope mount.

I shot a mule buck with a Mosin with Krieger 300 win mag barrel.
I designed my own front pillar/recoil lug that looks like toilet.
I designed my own ejector disable button for unloading long unfired cartridges.
 

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