More Cleaning Questions

Jeff Thomas

New member
I swear, the more I learn, the dumber I get. ;)

And, the more I clean firearms, the more I wonder if I'm really doing the best I can. I've got a number of questions, please:

1. Wool swabs - I don't understand the purpose of these. Seems like you'd use it once, for either cleaning, oil or whatever, and that would be it, no? When would you use a wool swab, instead of a patch (that is cheap, and you can toss)?

2. Copper solvent - like most folks, I'm usually shooting jacketed ammo, so I like to use some copper solvent when cleaning. However, it doesn't seem to remove other fouling as well as Hoppes, so I use both. I start with Hoppes, then run some dry patches through. Then the copper solvent, let it sit a few minutes, then more dry patches. I go over the barrel with Hoppes again to clean out all the copper solvent and finish with dry patches, and then a final, oily patch. This seems inefficient, but like I said, the Hoppes seems to do a better job of removing the fouling. Is there a better way?

3. Bronze brushes - maybe I'm too careful, but I tend to think I shouldn't use a bronze brush everytime I clean. Seems like it would be hard on the barrel. So, I run Hoppes through with a patch, then run a nylon brush through about 10 times and so on (see 2. above). Should I use a bronze brush more often?

4. Clean patches - everyone seems to say that the patch should stay clean when you're done. On handguns I can get to this point. But, on rifles it seems like the patch will never come out clean. Am I doing something wrong that leads to continuously dirty patches, or is the 'clean patch' advice sort of a relative term?

5. Clean after every use - is it really necessary, or even a good idea to clean everytime you use your firearm? Once saw advice that some LEO's run a few rounds through after they have cleaned, to make sure the firearm functions properly. Others seem to be religious about cleaning immediately after each use, and warning about corrosion if you don't clean immediately. I have had the experience of finding my 870 not functioning property after cleaning because the magazine follower became jammed. Glad I discovered that at my leisure, instead of in a defensive situation.

Lots of silly questions, I suppose, but I want to get better at this, and you folks are my only source for honest, one-on-one advice. And, of course, these are expensive tools - don't want to damage them, ever. I realize there will be different points of view, but I'll appreciate the advice.

Thanks a lot. Regards from AZ
 

TCHall/NC

New member
Hi Jeff,

I'll just jump in here with my first post on this board. I've maintained a couple of firearms for a short while but I've already (in only 35 years of activly shooting) come to hold a few opinions:

Wool swabs are wonderful, but I've never needed anything but a good cotton or synthetic patch.

Your copper fouling is something I've never needed to address, but the electrolytic units are the next step after your technique. They remove the copper molecule by molecule using the electroplating process.
I don’t use brushes very often, in fact detailed cleaning isn’t really necessary on a firearm that will be shot the next weekend. When I was actively competing in USPSA/IPSC we used to wipe down the guns at the range, and run a patch through them when we got back home. Usually we’d store them with a little CLP in the bore and run a patch through before the next match. We did not clean the bore between the last practice and the next match.

Carry stuff is a little different, you will be getting it wet, full of lint and generally abused. It will just need to be cleaned more often and protected from corrosion that much more. I’m currently using moly based lube on my carry guns. You put it in, let the solvent evaporate away and wipe down the excess.
Clean patches mean ‘clean’ but you aren’t going to get clean patches until all of the fouling is gone. That means a good scrubbing, a soak (overnight or longer) with CLP or some alternate and another cleaning session. The really will come out clean if you put enough time into it<G>

Clean after every use. Yes if the gun is going back into storage indefinitely, no doubts, ifs ands or buts there. If you are going to be using it in the next week or even month, probably not. Most guns are probably worn more from cleaning and carry than ever wear out shooting.

This is entirely my experience in the last 40 years since I was an apprentice gun scrubber for my father and in my own 35 years of owning firearms. BTW, my first shotgun is still owned by a family member and works perfectly as of last Christmass when I checked up on it<G>

Ted
Remember, your mileage may vary, not valid in states where prohibited, taxed or regulated etc...
 
F

faiello5

Guest
Jeff, I too only use jacketed bullets. I am also pretty obsessive about cleaning my guns. This is what I do and I have found that it works for me. YMMV

1. I first start by spraying simple green into the bore. I then soak a patch with the Simple Green and run it down the bore. Then a dry patch down the bore. Then spray more simple green down the bore and run a bronze brush down the bore. Follow with a wet patch of simple green then a dry patch. You will be amazed at how much of the fouling this removes.

2. I then spray Birchwood Casey Bore Cleaner into the bore and set the barrel aside while I clean the frame and slide. When I am done with the frame and slide, I run a wet patch of the BC down the bore then follow with a bronze brush, another wet patch and then a dry patch.

3. I then srpay the bore with BC Sheath. Bronze brush, wet patch and dry patch.

4. Lastly, I wet a patch with Dri-Moly Lube and run it down the bore several times. You will be surprised how effective the Dri-Moly is in preventing copper fouling from sticking in your bore.

This may seem like over-kill, but my bores sparkle when I am done and it is really not that much work. Good luck!


Frank
 

Rainbow Six

New member
For a pistol or revolver I think that the Bore Snake bore cleaners (or a jag and patch if you prefer, followed by a dry patch) with a drop or two of Shooters' Choice (or your favorite) bore cleaner ahead of the brush section a few drops of CLP behind the brush section (again, use jag and patch if you prefer) is enough bore cleaning for 200-300 rounds with jacketed ammo.

I use a good bronze brush with Shooters' Choice and then a wool swab with copper solvent after 200-300 rounds to remove any copper fouling. I've never been able to percieve any appreciable loss in accuracy in any of my handguns due to copper fouling within 300 rounds of jacketed ammo.

In fact, I have put over 500 rounds in one day through a Glock without any cleaning and the only loss of accuracy was caused by fatigue,since I also put 300 rounds through a .38, 150 rounds through a .357 and about 50 rounds through a .45 that day. Man, I had blisters from shooting!! We had a "blast" (pun intended) :) A local ammo manufacturer gave me a 5 gallon bucket 3/4 full of "sub-standard" ammo that didn't meet their quality standards. :D A couple of fellow officers and I went through almost all of it that day in about 4 hours.

For a rifle, I run a Bore Snake through after every 3-5 round group at the range and clean it thoroughly after 20-25 rounds, using Shooters' Choice, a bronze brush and lots of patches. About every 150-200 rounds I swab and soak with Sweets 7.62 copper solvent after the Shooters' Choice to remove copper fouling.

Important! Don't use a copper solvent with a bronze brush. The copper solvent can ruin the brush and give you a false indication of copper fouling. What you are actually getting is dissolved bronze from the brush! Swab the copper solvent in with a wool swab or cotton patch and let it soak, then run patches through. Finish off with a patch and Shooters' Choice and another dry patch session.

I really enjoy cleaning my guns. It's really relaxing and takes my mind off of other crap. :)

R6
 

DaHaMac

New member
I thought I was Canal rentenitive about getting my barrels and guns clean. I mean to spots the size of dot in the letter i drove me crazy in my .454 I finally shot some more lead through that sucker, cleaned it again a much to my relief it now looks like a mirror.

Scrub, Scrub, Scrub, that is what everyobe tells me.

Interesting thread, I may be learning something here.

DaHaMac
 

Mordwyn.45

New member
Great advice folks, I learn something with each mouse click every time I come here. Now here comes the semi-embarrassing question: What exactly is "CLP"? I'm familiar with most of the cleaners/solvents mentioned, but not that one.
Also, faiello5 is not the first person I've heard mention using Simple Green in their firearms maintenance. I know how great that stuff is from using it around the house and shop but has anyone ever run into problems caused by the fact that it's a water based cleaner being used on a precision metal instrument, I.E rust etc?
Thanks for the extra input


------------------
TANSTAAFL- R.A. Heinlen

"Molon Labe"- Leonidas to Xerxes at Thermopile
 

fed168

New member
CLP is better known as Break Free, if I am not mistaken. The military designation is CLP, I have aquired some military CLP, it is labeled as such, but the "civilian" varient is labeled Break Free CLP.
 

James K

Member In Memoriam
Hi, guys,

Color me puzzled, but I don't understand why folks who fire a full-metal jacket bullet down a rifle barrel at 3000 fps are worried that they will hurt that same barrel with a bronze brush.

Jim
 

swifter...

New member
Having just tried Butch's Bore Shine on several rifles, including 2 AI's, and a .41 Mag, I commend it to you heartily. It really does work well, better than the SC/Kroil mix I was using, which is saying a BUNCH! :D

------------------
The Bill of Rights, and the Golden Rule are enough for civilized behavior. The rest is window dressing. Shoot carefully, swifter...
 

houndawg

New member
CLP= Clean, Lubricate, Preserve. It is a all in one product made by Break Free. USMC used it when I was in (87-91) and they probably still use it if they haven't gone to Militec-1. It's pretty good stuff. It stays where you put it and has a nice way of leeching powder residue out overnight.
 

Mordwyn.45

New member
Fed168, Houndawg,
Thanks for the ejimikation
CLP is just synonomus for somthing I've used for years DOH!

[This message has been edited by Mordwyn.45 (edited April 10, 2000).]
 

johnwill

New member
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jim Keenan:
Hi, guys,

Color me puzzled, but I don't understand why folks who fire a full-metal jacket bullet down a rifle barrel at 3000 fps are worried that they will hurt that same barrel with a bronze brush.

Jim
[/quote]

In reading this thread, I was wondering the same thing. I'm glad you posted, saves me the trouble. :)
 

Jeff Thomas

New member
I've been remiss in not saying thank you before now ... thanks! I appreciate the help and advice.

And, as far as being worried about bronze brushes, well, I guess I'm just a little anal about all this. And, I want to make sure I take the best care I can of these tools. They're expensive, and who knows how long they'll need to last?

Thanks again. Regards from AZ
 
Top