Mold Mod

[Rangefinder]

Well, I FINALLY got around to modifying my Lee 93gr. mold for my .32 Auto. It really ran nice, but was a serious pain in the back-side to load due to how deep the bullet had to be seated to chamber correctly. It typically caused a bulge that had to be ironed out prior to the crimp. This is usually a bad idea because it swagges down the base and typically causes gas jetting--never seemed to be an issue with such a low pressure load, but it was irritating taking extra steps. SO... I shaved the mold to the base lube groove, opened up the groove, and slightly shouldered the remaining groove. Instead of the previous 94gr as dropped at .540 length, I finished with 80gr at .457 length. Seating is now smooth as it should be, and the darn thing even tightened up the groups! Shoulda gotten around to this a long time ago!

 

[GP100man]

Super KOOOOLL!! especially that it works better !!!

I have a lee 6 banger 158 rnfp that shoots great but the little bevel on the base catches a little lube, wonder how it would affect it if the bevel was shaved off ????? or the bevels cut out ????

I really would like to keep it as heavy as possible ????

 

[Rangefinder]

I think rather than shave it off the top I would just bore it out. A 23/64 bit works out at .359 (I think I saw your caliper right). You might even gain a couple grains that way.

 

[hornetguy]

You can certainly bore out the bevel from the base of the boolit. I did this to a Lee .375 mold, and it worked out very well. Here are before and after pics of the boolits.

 

[Rangefinder]

For the real fun GP, check out the additional mod I did to it---HP'd one cavity.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=455062

 

[hornetguy]

That's a really nice job on that HP'd cavity. I wish I still had my lathe and mill, I'd be playin with this stuff all the time..
Plus, they moved the machine shop at work to another building about a half mile away. No more "government" work..