Model 7- Glass bed & free float or B&C Medalist?

[houser52]

I'm looking for opinions and help.

I've decided to put a 1994 Remington Model 7, 1-9 twist, wood stock, in 6mm back into use. It's my son's rifle but he hasn't used it in years. Instead of it just sitting in the safe I figured I'd use it as a longer range truck gun and carry it when checking the pastures in case I run into a coyote, ground hog etc.

The last few weeks I've tried to come up with an accurate load using 60, 70 and 85 grain bullets. Seems like I can't get either bullet weight to group like I want them to. It might shoot 2 at .5" then throw the third out 2"-3". The last shot of the day may be in the X then the first shot the next day might be 3"-5" high and 4"-5" right or left. The first cold bore shot is what I count on to be in the X but that's not happening.

I haven't tried 100 grain bullets yet because I like the flatter shooting lighter weight bullets.

(Note- I'm not a rookie at reloading and have been loading for 35+ years developing loads for rifle and pistol)

Things I've tried;
>Vary powder charges, minimum to maximum
>Vary case OAL
>Wait on the short skinny barrel to cool 5-20 minutes between shots
>Stock tip pressure- Adding/removing shims(strips of painter's tape)
between stock and barrel
>Different scope, different mounts, different rings
>Everything tight and rechecked to verify.

It has the factory trigger in it now and I have a Timney trigger on the way. It should be here this week. If a lighter and smoother trigger doesn't improve groups I guess the stock is the next step.

Which would help my situation the most, glass bed and free float the original wood stock or buy a new B&C synthetic stock with the aluminum bedding? I'd like to get it shooting accurately but keep the cost down.

Thanks

 

[jmr40]

A couple of things. The heavier bullets may well be more accurate. Going to a high BC bullet of around 105 gr or so will offset the faster 85 gr low BC bullets. I ran the numbers, the 85 gr drops about 1" less at 500 yards.

I'd get it to shoot first before throwing money at a new stock. I've used a lot of aftermarket stocks and none have improved accuracy. I like them and they serve a purpose, but if the rifle doesn't prove to be a shooter I'm not putting money in it.

Not what you want to hear, but I'd return the Timney trigger for a refund. A Timney isn't any lighter or smoother than a factory Remington trigger. The only reason to go with a Timney it is to get rid of the old Walker trigger on Remington's that has been known to fail.

Take that + the money you would have spent on an aftermarket stock and you can buy a new rifle that is a tack driver and have money left over.

OR, use the receiver only as the platform for a full custom. New barrel, stock, the works.

 

[houser52]

Thanks for the info.

Yea, I'd thought about just putting it back in the safe a going with the Ruger American in 243. Even though it's cheap most reviewers say it's very accurate.

I'm going to order some 100 grain Sierra bullets today and give those a try.

 

[joed]

That rifle will shoot, unless the barrel has been shot out. You didn't mention the round count through it.

I'm not a believer in the pressure point contacting the barrel. The rifles I've had like this with a wood stock have been disappointing at best. I like to have a wood stock free floated, I've found they are more accurate.

Ammo, try seating the bullets to the length specified in the loading manuals. I've seen people try to seat bullets closer to the lands and accuracy falls off. Doesn't happen often but this does happen. You have to remember with lighter bullets you can't seat them to far out or neck tension falls off causing what you are experiencing.

I doubt the 100 or 105 gr will shoot better by any margin.

Lastly what powders did you try? Lighter bullets need faster powders. I learned this pretty quickly with my first rifle.

 

[NHSHOOTER]

I have a model 7 wood stock in 7-08 and I didnt get good accuracy until I seated the bullets at factory length rather than 20K back from the lands. I dont know how old your rifle is but I have owned 2 model 7's and both had adjustable triggers.

 

[houser52]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The rifle has been shot very little. Total number of shots have been less than 200 rounds with the majority of them shot within the last month.

I've tried H4350, RL15, Varget, Benchmark and 760 powders.

I had thoroughly cleaned it using foaming copper cleaner after it wouldn't group well when first testing. Didn't see a lot of copper come out of it but now I know the bore has been cleaned.

I have some 100 grain bullets on the way and will try them next. I'll also experiment seating the bullets deeper in the case a little at a time.

 

[Doyle]

I've got a Model 7 in .260 with a 1 in 9 twist and it likes heavy-for-caliber bullets. I agree with JMR40 - it might just need a heavier bullet.

 

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

I don't own a 6-MM but a hunting pal does. He persuaded me long ago to try shooting 75 gr. Hornady HPs or 80 gr PSP Sierra in my 243 Ruger Flat Bolt. I tried his suggestion and have never shot another bullet heavier than 80 gr since.

I charge my cartridges brass with IMR 4831. My friend uses a Winchester powder (760 or 485?) although I'm not sure on his 760 use. I do know for a fact he uses the same weight jacketed bullets in his 6-MM as I do.

You got'a love those light weight 6-MM bullets for their dime size grouping at 100 yrds all day long. The harder I pushed my loads with the Hornady 75s seated the tighter my 243 squeezed its grouping. I can imagine a 6MM is even better at squeezing than my 243 is.
Anyway I hope you find that speedy accurate sweet spot we all know the 6-MM undoubtedly is noted for.

 

[cw308]

200 rounds brown the barrel is nothing. Give the barrel a good cleaning. Changing the trigger to a timney, you will see the difference, that & bedding the stock with the barrel free floating, your groups will tighten, fliers will disappear. Some rifles may need a foul shot maybe a inch out of the group. Makes a nice project making your rifle a shooter. Also Remington barrels have a lot of free bore. Stick with listed OAL , better to try different powders , charges & bullets. My Rem. barrel had so much free bore the bullet would almost be out of the case mouth before it hit the rifling. Remove the Rem. trigger, bed the stock & install the Timney trigger & get started shooting those tight groups.

 

[T. O'Heir]

Free floating guarantees nothing. Not all rifles like it, but the only way to find out if your's does is to try it. If accuracy doesn't improve putting a pressure point back in is not a big deal. Just a dab of bedding material about 1-2" aft of the end of the forestock is all it takes.
"...painter's tape..." No good as a pressure medium. Too soft.
Glass bedding will ensure consistency though. And that rifle is in need of bedding. Just remember it's a deer rifle, not a target/varmint rifle. It'll like heavy bullets more than light. Speer 105 SP's are good for my 1 in 9.125 .243. Does astounding things to a ground hog too.

 

[44 AMP]

I have a lot of experience with the Model 600 series rifles, and the model 7 is similar in purpose. Not made to shoot tiny groups, made to put that first shot, and maybe the second where you want it.

yours isn't doing that, so that's a problem. Something is being inconsistent.

Sounds like you've done about all the usual stuff trying to fix it.

100gr (ish) bullets MIGHT be the answer, every rifle has its own preference.

However, if you're sure the optics are good, shooting to a different POI every time you take it out USUALLY means bedding issues.

Free floating MIGHT be the cure, its the cheapest thing to do. Don't spring for a new stock, just yet.

If the 100gr bullets don't shoot well, check the action bedding, if its right, then look at the barrel channel, some rifles shoot best with some pressure, some don't. Some free floated barrels become tack drivers, some don't. What free floating usually helps most with is consistency.

IF free floating turns out to help, then seal the wood properly. ALL of it. Including under the buttplate. You're in Carolina, a moist place. Minor warpage from daily/seasonal changes in humidity MIGHT be the cause of your inconsistency, especially if the barrel is pressure bedded.

One of my deer rifles lived for decades in the NY Adirondacks. I refinished the stock when I was about 17, took off all the ratty worn Remington "plastic" coating, refinished with oil. Shot fine, looked good.

Moved to a dry part of the west. Stock dried out and warped, wood pressing on the barrel down the entire left side. Free floated the barrel (generously) and sealed things properly. That rifle only does about a 2" group now, but it does it with every load I put in it, and amazingly POI for 150, 165, and 180gr (.308WIN) is in that same 2". For a carbine deer gun, I call that good enough.

Good Luck, and let us know how it goes.

 

[Picher]

After many years of accurizing rifles, I've never had great results from shimming the forend. Your best option is to buy some 1/2" steel tubing from a hardware store and make pillars to fit front and rear screw holes. Epoxy them in, then, rout-out UNDER and behind the recoil plate, and bedding surfaces at least 1/16" deep...leaving small wood tabs to locate the action.

I've had great results using JB-Weld, especially when combined with pillars. One plastic-stocked Model 7 that wouldn't shoot straight had a cracked stock at the front screw and was effectively repaired and pillar-bedded, including setting a piece of stove bolt across the crack, using the epoxy. When set-up, it shot some factory Remington Core-Locts in a 3/8" group at 100 yards!!! Don't forget to use paste shoe polish for release compound on all metal. Also, two layers of masking tape on the recoil plate...one on the front, two strips on the bottom and sides.

Good luck with the Mod 7. You'll love it, when bedded right.

 

[houser52]

After many years of accurizing rifles, I've never had great results from shimming the forend. Your best option is to buy some 1/2" steel tubing from a hardware store and make pillars to fit front and rear screw holes. Epoxy them in, then, rout-out UNDER and behind the recoil plate, and bedding surfaces at least 1/16" deep...leaving small wood tabs to locate the action.

I've had great results using JB-Weld, especially when combined with pillars. One plastic-stocked Model 7 that wouldn't shoot straight had a cracked stock at the front screw and was effectively repaired and pillar-bedded, including setting a piece of stove bolt across the crack, using the epoxy. When set-up, it shot some factory Remington Core-Locts in a 3/8" group at 100 yards!!! Don't forget to use paste shoe polish for release compound on all metal. Also, two layers of masking tape on the recoil plate...one on the front, two strips on the bottom and sides.

Good luck with the Mod 7. You'll love it, when bedded right.

Thanks.
First I tried shooting some 100 grain Sierra with no improvement. Then I free floated the barrel by sanding out the barrel channel leaving the barrel completely free floating from the chamber toward the muzzle. Still no change.

I have a friend that shoots and competes in long range rifle. He said that he would glass bed it for me but im not sure if I want to spend much on it since I already have others rifles. I'm seriously considering putting it back in the safe and scrapping the whole idea of using it.

 

[Doyle]

Houser, let me tell you what happened with my old hunting buddy in FL. He is a pretty decent garage gunsmith/tinkerer. Another hunting buddy of ours picked up a brand new rifle that wouldn't group for crap. This was a brand that has a reputation for shooting very well out of the box. So, the 3rd guy brings it over to my buddy to see if he could do anything with it. When he got the stock off, the first thing he suspected was that the stock wasn't cut exactly right an that it was applying uneven torque to the action. So, he did a garage bedding job on it using ordinary epoxy. With that one simple change, the rifle became a sub-MOA shooter.

If I were in your shoes, a home action bedding job would be my next course of action.

 

[Picher]

BTW: If you don't have a Moto-Tool, get one and make sure you get a 1/8" router bit to help you rout under and around the action, except for the small wood tabs and the top edge of the stock. I also like to bed the first inch or so of barrel.

Pillars are great, but not 100% necessary. They make it possible to tighten the action screws to 40 Inch-Pounds without damaging the wood, but 30 Inch-pounds is okay without the pillars.

 

[Mr. Hill]

Replace the trigger and shoot it from a rest.

 

[houser52]

Update-

After sitting in the safe since June I decided to go to work on the Model 7 again.

First of all I put in a new Timney trigger. That made the pull a lot smoother and lighter but didn't help the groups at all.

I was going to have my buddy bed it but he acted like he didn't want to mess with it so I didn't mention it to him again. I'd thought about bedding it myself but decided against that.

After doing a lot of research on stocks, I ended up ordering a Bell & Carlson Alaska II from Stocky's to give it a try. The Timney trigger's safety was making contact with the aluminum skeleton and after removing a little material the action dropped right in with the safety working smoothly. I then tightened the action screws to 35 in-pounds.

Today I loaded up a few 85 grain Sierra HPBT with H4350. 2 at 45 gr, 2 at 45.5 gr and 2 at 46 gr. with the OAL set at 2.825". I used fired Remington brass and WWLRP. All loads showed no signs of excess pressure and functioned great.

All I can say is that the B&C stock helped bring the little M7 to life. Those 6 shots were grouped in a neat cluster at .6" with 5 shots touching with one just slightly out.
Daylight was running out and I was only able to shoot from 75 yards away but I was very satisfied with the group compared to what it was shooting.

Im going to fine tune it and chronogaph the 46 gr load during the few days off I have with the upcoming Christmas holiday.

 

[hooligan1]

If your fairly handy with tools, you can easily bed that rifle.
Contrary to someones belief, freefloating barrel channels have always been better business than not.
When I get a rifle its almost the very first thing I do, and trigger replacement, scope base and ring remount.
Then after 1 range trip I will know if bedding will help more than not.

 

[cptjack]

have a free floated m77. shoots your 4350 load great and 4895 loads good also pushing 85 gr hpbt to 107gr mks

 

[Wrought]

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/650304/remington-rifle-stock-remington-model-7-synthetic-black
Id glass bed it in one of these, make sure the recoil lug is bedded too. Dont hesitate to remove material to get the barrel to float. If you like the feel of a wood stock, keep yours and some work on it.