model 20 or 23?

contender4040

New member
I have just recently acquired and old s&w revolver in excellent condition with box. the box is gold in color with "38 44 heavy duty" on it. The serial # is s74xxx range. My problem is that the blue book shows two possible models for this gun----the mdl 20 and the model 23. Both seem to fall in the same serial # range. Can anybody give any other identifiers as to which model I have? The gun is a 4" model with diamond grips.
 

larkworthy

New member
If the box says heavy duty on it, then the revolver probably has fixed sights. This would make it a pre-model 20. If the revolver has target sights (rear sight is adjustable) then it is a pre-model 23 (and quite rare if it is 4"). The serial number you provided tells us the gun was made around 1949-50.

Either way you have a great revolver. If you don't think it is very nice I can take off your hands for you..... :)
 

C.R.Sam

New member
Larkworthy seems to have it. if it had adjustable sights it would be a 38/44 Outdoorsman. Target gun.

Your ser# puts it right on the cusp of the transition from the prewar and early post war long actions and the later shorter actions. The S prefix indicates that it has the hammer block.

You got one STOUT .38spec.

If it doesn't like you, give me a holler.

Sam
 

uglygun

New member
Heh, I've got a 38/44 Outdoorsman that's seen a lot of use but it still shoots accurately enough for me that tweetybirds inside of 30 yards are at serious risk, once took one off of a barbed wire fence at 25-30 yards within 3 shots to prove a point to my buddy who didn't believe that I could hit squirrels with the gun out to 40-50 yards.


Sadly it's time to retire my 38/44 to occasional use status, it's got to chambers that are slightly out of time so that it won't lock up if you slowly draw back the action for a single fire shot and the barrel/cylinder gap has shortened a few thousandths because the retention slot in the crane has slowly marred over the years throwing off the gap, after the handgun has been fired a few shots and the cylinder face gets dirty there are two cylinders that are slightly out of parrallel with the other chambers and the dirt will rub against the barrel/forcing cone area causing it to bind up when the cylinder rotates unless you help it with your off hand.


I'll likely send it out one day to have it tightened up and replacement parts fitted with the originals returned so as to keep them with the gun.


From what I gather it's a 5 screw, four in the side plate and one ahead of the trigger guard, were all of the old 38/44 guns 5 screws or did they make them long enough to start dropping screws before they were discontinued.


My 38/44 is what started my love affair with N-framed smiths and I likely will not buy a 27 until I can find a 27-2 that matches my 38/44 as closely as possible in nearly every respect.
 
Ugly,

I believe the .38/44s remained in production up through the 1960s, so they should have transitioned through to the 3-screw design.

I'll have to check my book when I get home.

Yours is a 5-screw.
 

contender4040

New member
Thank you all for your help. This is going to be a pre mdl 20. Will keep it beside my 3.5" pre mdl 27. For some reason, can't resist the older s&w revolvers---now to hunt for a 5 screw model 10;)
 
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