Metro Arms 1911 hammer issues.

[Polinese]

Bought a metro arms and after trying it out at the range I swapped the pins and hammer for Wilson Combat. Now sometimes the hammer won't stay cocked back when the slide cycles. Not all the time, just sometimes. I can't even reproduce it regularly.

Any ideas?

Of course I can't find the bag I put all the factory parts in...

 

[RickB]

There's no such thing as "drop in" 1911 parts, so any time you replace one you may have to do some fitting, or even replace other associated parts.
You might be able to get away with tweaking the sear spring slightly, applying a little more forward pressure on the sear and disconnector.
I adjust the two legs of the sear spring equally, using a trigger pull gauge to confirm.
Manufacturers generally match their parts to each other, so, replacing the Metro sear with a Wilson sear might also be a fix.
After changing both the hammer and sear, you may then need to refit or replace the thumb safety, too.

 

[Polinese]

Replacing the sear and the disconnector were on my to do list before I had this issue. I know as a general rule you can't just drop in parts. Downside to the 1911

I have found it will only do it with the trigger still depressed while cycling. If the trigger is let off the hammer stays back every time.

 

[arquebus357]

Then...don't do that.

 

[RickB]

That's interesting, in a troubling way.
It used to be common to hold the trigger back when loading or otherwise dropping the slide, to help prevent the hammer from following.

Does the gun have a trigger overtravel adjustment screw?
You might try turning the screw out a half-turn, and see if that helps.

 

[Polinese]

It does I started fiddling with it but had to step out so I still need to rule that out

 

[Polinese]

No discernible difference with the screw

 

[tangolima]

I'm afraid the issue is with the pistol's trigger disconnect. It doesn't disconnect the trigger clean. When the slide goes out of battery, the trigger still rubs on the sear and raises it very slightly. The new hammer must have a shallower full cock notch than the stock hammer, so the issue shows. The stock hammer just masks the issue, but the issue has always been there.

Do you notice different trigger weight when cycling with and without the trigger pulled back? It is quite likely there is. In which case, the trigger disconnect will need to be fitted. You may not want to fire that pistol till it is corrected. It may be in the territory of doubling or even full auto.

-TL

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Polinese]

I won't be shooting it again until the issue is resolved and am just using my ruger for everything until it's back in service. Ordered a new sear and disconnector and am gonna give it to the guy who fitted all the pieces on my ruger

 

[straightshooterjake]

I have found it will only do it with the trigger still depressed while cycling. If the trigger is let off the hammer stays back every time.

The problem you have is called hammer follow. It generally happens if the relationship between the hammer and sear is not right. The disconnector and the sear spring could also be involved, but the most common cause is the sear itself.

You mentioned that the issue only happens when you hold the trigger back while cycling. You should be aware that when a semi-automatic is fired, the trigger is always back while the action cycles. During live fire, the slide will cycle faster than you can release the trigger.

 

[Polinese]

UPDATE: Found my bag of factory parts and put them all back in. Haven't been able to go to the range yet but haven't been able to produce the malfunction manually either.

When I referred to it only occurring with the trigger depressed I was talking about cycling the slide by hand trying to replicate the malfunction.

Got the Wilson combat sear and disconnector with a safety on the way, once I get em I"ll just have to pay to have them fitted. This is my only complaint about the platform.