roger-ruger
New member
Has anyone tried it on their firearms? Any pros and cons? Thanks.
Metal Polish
- Thread starter roger-ruger
- Start date
Flitz=Claims to not damage factory blueing. It is mildly abrasive. I have used it, lightly, with good results on light surface rust on blue and stainless guns.
Semichrome=Used it on Stainless guns. Mildly abrasive.
Mothers=Used it on stainless guns. Mildly abrasive.
Any of them will polish a stainless gun to a mirror finish, I personally like a satin finish on stainless, so, other than getting rid of a little surface rust or burn rings on the cylinder face, I don't use them.
Semichrome=Used it on Stainless guns. Mildly abrasive.
Mothers=Used it on stainless guns. Mildly abrasive.
Any of them will polish a stainless gun to a mirror finish, I personally like a satin finish on stainless, so, other than getting rid of a little surface rust or burn rings on the cylinder face, I don't use them.
Rainbow Six
New member
I've used both Wenol and Flitz on blued guns without problems. I always use it very lightly and ALWAYS use 100% cotton cloths with it. I wouldn't go overboard with ANY polish, but as long as you go lightly and don't do it too often you shouldn't remove too much bluing.
Flitz or Semichrome on stainless works great to bring up a high luster..
I also use fine grade scotch bright to take the edges off stinless gun parts liek ruger triggers and trigger guards, if you cut it into strips you can go back and forth with it and smooth things out in no time leaving a very nice brushed finish behind.
I also use fine grade scotch bright to take the edges off stinless gun parts liek ruger triggers and trigger guards, if you cut it into strips you can go back and forth with it and smooth things out in no time leaving a very nice brushed finish behind.
I used stones, wet/dry sandpaper (progressively from 800 grit to 1600 grit), and finally Flitz to take the flats of my Ruger Mark II "slabside" up to a mirror finish.
It looked great for all of about 10 min.
It all started when I used Flitz on the slabs to clean them up some. It left it looking like crap because the metal had never been intended to be polished.
All it did was bring the tool marks out.
I ended up having to *fix* it by taking it up to a mirror finish.
Again, (I assume) the metal had never been intended to be polished all the way up like that, and it's soft enough that it scratches pretty easy.
One itty bitty tiny scratch stands out like a booger, and requires an enormous amount of work to get rid of.
It looked great for all of about 10 min.
It all started when I used Flitz on the slabs to clean them up some. It left it looking like crap because the metal had never been intended to be polished.
All it did was bring the tool marks out.
I ended up having to *fix* it by taking it up to a mirror finish.
Again, (I assume) the metal had never been intended to be polished all the way up like that, and it's soft enough that it scratches pretty easy.
One itty bitty tiny scratch stands out like a booger, and requires an enormous amount of work to get rid of.