mapsjanhere
New member
We have a numbers matching Mauser C96 with broken-out extractor lips (the part that holds the extractor to the bolt). Can you put a weld on and remachine the lips or do you have to replace the bolt?
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Mauser C96 bolt problem
- Thread starter mapsjanhere
- Start date
Maybe someone can weld and remachine that bolt, but not many. I would ask around, on the off chance. I think I would try at welding shops, not at gunsmith shops, and see what they say. It would help if you have another bolt or good pictures, so you can say "like this".
I know of no source of bolts. Gun Parts is sold out and of course another bolt would not match. It would be possible for a precision machine shop to make the bolt, but I shudder at the cost!
Jim
I know of no source of bolts. Gun Parts is sold out and of course another bolt would not match. It would be possible for a precision machine shop to make the bolt, but I shudder at the cost!
Jim
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
I'd want that done with TIG, where you can get a minimum heat input. With it, you can lay a quick and small drop of metal, let it cool, then add a bit more, until it is built up. You let it rest and cool between each spot of weld, to keep it from warping, though it still could, and should be braced in a fixture. One would have to keep an eye on it, as they do it.
mapsjanhere
New member
Thanks, the issue is not the machining, we can do that, it's the welding. I will talk to a local welding shop.
In most large cities, there are precision welding/machine shops, some of which could probably make a watch if they wanted to. Around here, the welding shops can't handle anything smaller than the tines on a hay rake, and taking something like that to them would be a disaster.
So talk to the welder. Too often a shop has some up front idjit who will promise anything without knowing or caring what can be done.
Jim
So talk to the welder. Too often a shop has some up front idjit who will promise anything without knowing or caring what can be done.
Jim
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
I can recommend a good little welder, if you'd doing parts that are non-critical, and you can only do stick. One might still find one used, such as on eBay, etc.
I had a small welder, made by Sears, and it couldn't be but a 30 amp welder, that ran on 115 Vac. It was about the size of a bench battery charger. The largest rod you could use, was probably 3/32. I used to use 1/16" rods, and lay small spots of weld to build up firing pins on the old Iver Johnson, etc, revolver hammers. You do it by adding one little round glob of metal at a time, like your doing a tack weld, until you get enough that you can shape, harden, then temper it.
However, now, you can get a small combo DC TIG-Stick welder, from Harbor Freight, pretty cheap, that will work, as you only need low amounts of current on gun work anyhow. Use a foot pedal with it, (what I prefer), and you can do wonders with one. They have one with a high freq. starter on it, below. All you would need is gas and wire/rod.
http://www.harborfreight.com/240-volt-inverter-arctig-welder-with-digital-readout-62486.html
I had a small welder, made by Sears, and it couldn't be but a 30 amp welder, that ran on 115 Vac. It was about the size of a bench battery charger. The largest rod you could use, was probably 3/32. I used to use 1/16" rods, and lay small spots of weld to build up firing pins on the old Iver Johnson, etc, revolver hammers. You do it by adding one little round glob of metal at a time, like your doing a tack weld, until you get enough that you can shape, harden, then temper it.
However, now, you can get a small combo DC TIG-Stick welder, from Harbor Freight, pretty cheap, that will work, as you only need low amounts of current on gun work anyhow. Use a foot pedal with it, (what I prefer), and you can do wonders with one. They have one with a high freq. starter on it, below. All you would need is gas and wire/rod.
http://www.harborfreight.com/240-volt-inverter-arctig-welder-with-digital-readout-62486.html