Making .38shorts at 9mm performance

jetinteriorguy

New member
Tell me if I’m crazy or not. In my snub I was thinking of cutting down .38sp cases to .38 short dimensions, then loading them using 9mm data with copper coated 125gr bullets. This is in a .357mag pistol. Heres my thinking, With the short ejection rod they will eject without getting hung up and should work better with a speed loader. So I’d get 9mm performance in a carry size revolver with a rimmed case for reliability. I feel I’m oversimplifying this and missing some reason why this is a bad idea. Open to any thoughts. Of course I would carefully work up any loads as per proper procedure.
 

74A95

New member
Some folks are doing this for competition.

1) Why trim your brass when you can buy it new: https://www.starlinebrass.com/38-short-colt-brass

2) The rounds are really short and might not work well with speedloaders. I've tried this and length can be an issue with getting them to align properly and they don't extend that far from the speedloader's center post. But try it for yourself.

3) Go to the Brian Enos website for more information (search for 38 Short Colt).
https://forums.brianenos.com/
https://forums.brianenos.com/forum/72-9mm38-caliber/
https://forums.brianenos.com/forum/43-revolver-forum/
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
Thanks for the links. I have about 6000 .38sp cases on hand so am thinking for an experiment I’d just rough cut them with a cutoff wheel and finish on my trimmer. Or would this be a problem due to the possibility of a case having a tapered thickness?
 

74A95

New member
Good point. I hadn't thought about the tapered thickness. It might be a problem considering how far they are cut off. Try some with a couple different brands.
 
If you have a set of 0.250-0.500 pin gauges, you can find the one that just makes it down the inside of a case and see where it stops. It takes a bit more feel, but you can do something similar with a half-ball small hole gauge by setting it to just barely rub inside the case mouth and then seeing how far down it goes before starting to jam. That will be where the case wall is thickening, and it limits your seating depth.

One of our members pointed out that some makes have or used to have different 38 Special brass for wadcutter target loads that stay thin in the wall to a greater depth before thickening. It's something I had been unaware of. I assume the cases would be marked "match" or have a different case cannelure location or some other indicator. Such a case would let you seat deeply, but would also be less strong, so I don't know whether they would be compatible with 9 mm pressure loads or not. You'd have to work up carefully while watching for signs of problems with them, to see. I am mainly mentioning this so you can see if sorting your brass by depth of the thin part of your wall might be useful. I would assume such cases would be lighter than their same-headstamp regular cases, too, giving you another way to sort.

In your shoes, I would be inclined to buy a small number of the Starline and compare to the .38 Special. Starline won't sell you less than 500 directly, but Midway repacks them in quantities of 100 so you could buy those without investing quite so much in the project. It might be a good way to try the concept out and look at them in speed loaders and other factors.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
Thanks all, I’m beginning to think maybe some Starline brass would be the best way to go. My thinking was along the lines of what you’re saying UN, I may just try some from Midway to begin with. If I had a set of pin gauges I’d fool with it but I don’t, so I’ll just follow the KISS rule like I always do.
 

BillM

New member
If your problem is the short ejector rod on a snubby, just how much shorter do you
need to be to eject reliably?

Have you considered 38 long colt? 1/8" shorter than 38 special.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
If your problem is the short ejector rod on a snubby, just how much shorter do you
need to be to eject reliably?

Have you considered 38 long colt? 1/8" shorter than 38 special.
I thought about that possibility as well but haven’t actually done any measuring yet. I guess to my way of thinking the short could duplicate 9mm performance in a .357 gun so I’d have a pretty reliable way to access load information. I suppose if it would work lengthwise you could possibly load the bullet long and then just use .38sp data, that way it wouldn’t matter which pistol it’s used in. I’ll have to check this out. This might make it easier to cut down existing brass too, rather than buy new. This is working out to be an interesting project. Or another thought would be to just trim brass to whatever length would clear the ejector then develop a load based on that, could possibly even seat to same COL as existing.38sp loads if enough of the bullet is in the case for good grip. Hmmm, just thought of something else, I’m going to have to get dies for this experiment too, at least for flaring,seating,and removing the flare or crimping. Looks like time for some more research and measuring.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
I did some measuring and it would take a case length of .51 or so to completely clear the cylinder on ejection. Not a lot to work with. The .38 short case length according to Wikipedia is .765 so it’s far from completely clearing the cylinder. So I guess my decision now is this going to work that much better than just plain old .38sp that it’s worth the time and money invested. Considering this was mostly just a S&G project anyway not worth the effort for the actual usefulness in my case. I considered even trimming to 9mm lengths but in my mind still not enough to consider it useful.
 
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