Mag Spark Cap Adapter

[Deltadart]

There was some discussion on these years ago, I wanted to find out if there are any updates on these or similar devices. Due to the shortage of caps of any type presently I was looking for some options. I have successfully made caps using the no 11 cap maker called Tap O Cap and the priming compound used to reload .22 LR cartridges, however the compound is corrosive and I can not get the non corrosive chemicals without an explosive license, special equipment and so on. The toy caps add even more labor to a slow process. I have a 1000 209 shot gun caps available, as I no longer reload shot gun shells. I see the pros/cons of the adapter as these. Do not have the explosive residue on the breech of the rifle, function well, and weather resistant. The cons are slows down reloading, the loss of the removeable top/firing pin would disable the weapon, on a cold day I think it might be difficult for cold fingers, and they are picky as to the caps that will function in them. Winchester caps stick. In my Seneca the hammer is not able to get to the half cock position but rests on the firing pin, this is unsafe. The option is to carry full cock, very unsafe. Does anyone know if the the male threaded portion the firing pin screws onto can be shorted to allow the hammer to lower to the half cock position without resting on the firing pin?

 

[arcticap]

There's a device called a Kap Kover that was designed to fit over a nipple to weatherproof it and to perhaps act as a 2nd safety. --->>> https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...uct_name/NP0860+Safe+N'+Dry+Kap+Kover+6X.75MM
It has a rubber O-ring that helps to seal it on top of the nipple, and its diameter also fits perfectly over a nipple.
It attaches to the trigger guard with a piece of leather, and when the hammer is pulled back, it's easy enough to remove.
Folks would make their own from a tire valve cap which was said to fit nicely over a nipple in the same fashion, and could even be used for dry firing since it protects an uncapped nipple.

This Kap Kover device probably won't fit on the Mag-spark, but you might be able to come up with a similar firing pin cover of your own.
It would need to fit over it tight enough to not be too easily dislodged.
I wonder if there's a cartridge case that can be lined with a material that would fit, or a plastic cap from a food container that's flexible enough to fit over it.
Either could also be cut down.

Another idea would be to use a piece of FLEXIBLE HOSE OR TUBING.
It's sold in plenty of sizes, both rubber and vinyl at the auto and home improvement stores.
That should have enough stretch to fit over a Mag-spark and can be cut long enough to keep the hammer off the firing pin.

This may sound absurd, but if you could fit an inner cover under an outer cover, then you might be able to be double protected if they could stay on the Mag-spark independent of each other.
Then during hunting the drill would be to cock the hammer, remove a cover, remove another cover and fire.
Even of one of them simply falls away and is held in place by hammer pressure such as a tire valve cover.
Or you may be able to attach a 2nd piece of tubing on either the inside or outside of the hammer cup, and maybe that can somehow rest on the Mag-spark hose, which in turn, the inside of the larger diameter could be plugged with an empty .22LR or WMR, or .25 or 32 acp brass case, or another piece of smaller diameter hose or tube.
The stuff is inexpensive, and I'm sure that you'll figure something out with the right assortment of materials.

Not sure if you can shorten the firing pin or if it would even help reduce the height enough.
I guess it could depend in part on how the pin is held captive inside the upper half of the Mag-spark.

Have you considered trying #11 magnum primers or the RWS #1075 Plus?

 

[Deltadart]

Arcticap I have not tried either the 11# magnum or RWS 1075 Plus. I installed the Mag Spark again hoping to find a successful option for the device. A .22 short case will work or cut down LR, tire cap works also. There is no way to modify the Mag Spark to allow the hammer to come to half cock with it installed on the Seneca. The .22 case or cap may work for a range, although were I an RSO I would be concerned about that condition. Not so much for hunting. I think this may work well on a Hawken style such as the Browning Mountain Rifle, but the threads are different so I am not able to check for certain. I still like the idea of the adapter as an option when percussion caps are not available, positive ignition, and it does keep the breech free of the soot from standard caps.

 

[arcticap]

Other suggestions would involve bending a 2nd hammer to proper shape for use with the Mag-spark, or simply shortening the hammer cup area of a replacement hammer.
I don't know if that could be done and still allow full function of the hammer within the lock's range of motion or not, but maybe it's possible that it could work just fine.
There's a bunch of Seneca/Cherokee/Patriot hammers for sale on eBay, with the cheapest being a NOS for $45 buy it now with free shipping.
See eBay item number:264888622636 that's for sale by dtom9172.
Just enter the item number into the eBay search box, or search for seneca hammer like I did.

Or else either find another suitable replacement hammer or construct one.

I think that simply shortening the hammer cup area could work.
And if you can make it work then maybe spending the money is the best solution for a happy ending.

 

[Deltadart]

Arcticap, Thank you very much for all of your suggestions and ideas, those were well thought out.
The idea was as a backup due to the percussion cap shortage originally. I have 1000 Winchester 209 primers I thought would work, but I tried a couple, they stick badly in the adapter. Perhaps on a range, but were I an RSO I would have concerns about this set up. The idea is good but it simply is too much trouble to make it a safe option for the Seneca in my opinion. I returned it to the manufacture.

 

[Deltadart]

Just an update, the Mag Spark will work with the Seneca if the hammer is bent a little bit to aline it with the adapter, a small part of the flash cup may need to be filed just a little as well. The manufacture will provide the instructions to complete the work, I just did not want to do that.