Has anyone ever drilled and tapped the fore end of their M1A stock to allow for the attachment of a Harris bipod? I'm thinking a threaded sleeve could be drilled and glued flush in there, remaining out of sight until the need or desire to attach the bipod. Or is there even any room?
M1A bipod mount
- Thread starter LBC
- Start date
I think it kinda depends on what kind of stock you have. I have thought about doing that myself, but I have a synthetic stock and there is just to much hassle for me to worry about. I emailed Springfield about it awhile back and they told me that because of liability reasons that couldn't tell me how to do it, but I could send my stock to them and they would do it for me for a price. Well, sorry I wasn't much help, hopefully someone with a lot more info will chip in. Keep us posted on what you find out.
Go to http://www.battlerifles.com/ and run a search. Some say to just use the drain hole if you don't plan on going under water. Most drill out an extra hole next to the drain hole and install a butler base screw and nut. That is what I did. Make sure that you place a wide washer on the inside for strength and also make sure the hole assembly clears the gas piston assembly.
Old Thread.
My advice: install a Harris "Flange Nut" in front of the existing swivel leaving just enough space between the two for a Harris bipod to attach. -- Kernel
My advice: install a Harris "Flange Nut" in front of the existing swivel leaving just enough space between the two for a Harris bipod to attach. -- Kernel
EOD Guy in VA
New member
I was advised by Springfield Armory that it was a bit risky and might split the stock.
So, I took my new SA M-21 to my gunsmith. Glad I did, he used a different QD stud than the recommended one and reinforced it internally.
So, I took my new SA M-21 to my gunsmith. Glad I did, he used a different QD stud than the recommended one and reinforced it internally.
What I did (on a synthetic stock) was this:
I drilled the sling attachment off, had my father (an excellent machinist) cut off the loop, ground the ends round to match the front end, then drilled and tapped a hole in the middle of that plate. I painted it black again, and put it back on the rifle and put the short (#5 I think) swivel stud in the hole. (Oh yeah, I had to drill a hole in the stock for the stud, where the hole in the plate was) It worked just fine, and didn't split the stock.
I drilled the sling attachment off, had my father (an excellent machinist) cut off the loop, ground the ends round to match the front end, then drilled and tapped a hole in the middle of that plate. I painted it black again, and put it back on the rifle and put the short (#5 I think) swivel stud in the hole. (Oh yeah, I had to drill a hole in the stock for the stud, where the hole in the plate was) It worked just fine, and didn't split the stock.
Simple answer is to just screw a swivel stud in to the stock just behind the existing swivel swing enough where your harris bipod clears the swivel attachment. Once you screw the stud in, mark where the excess off, then file it until it is flush with the inside of the stock. Presto, you can easily attach a bipod now. It is a little closer to the back of the gun than one might want, but it sure is easy. If you don't want the bipod on there much, then just leave it off and the stud pretty much stays out of the way. Good luck.
PS: You obviously wouldn't want to use a large Bipod like the Harris 25(s) that I have on mine. A Model L(s) is much better.
PS: You obviously wouldn't want to use a large Bipod like the Harris 25(s) that I have on mine. A Model L(s) is much better.
Attachments
I still advocate installing the stud in front of the existing swivel. The wood is to thin for a simple wood-screw stud, no doubt this is why Springfield advises against it, but a flange-nut stud spreads the load differently. It's far stronger. I've got over 4000 rds thru my M1A, even with a Tank's Speed Knob which allows me to attach the bipod real tight (it pulled the stud out of a Kevlar stock). No problems on my M1A.
Four disadvantages attaching the stud behind the GI swivel:
1. With the bipod attached it looks.... peculiar.
2. The placement interferes with a proper hand hold.
3. Attaching a sling to the GI swivel would be awkward, if not impossible.
4. The arraignment is less stable due to the shorter base of support.
I can't think of any disadvantage mounting the stud forward.
Maybe I'm alone here, but I'm not a big fan of odd unstable looking rifles that are awkward to hold and difficult to carry slung. Call it a pet peeve. -- Kernel
Four disadvantages attaching the stud behind the GI swivel:
1. With the bipod attached it looks.... peculiar.
2. The placement interferes with a proper hand hold.
3. Attaching a sling to the GI swivel would be awkward, if not impossible.
4. The arraignment is less stable due to the shorter base of support.
I can't think of any disadvantage mounting the stud forward.
Maybe I'm alone here, but I'm not a big fan of odd unstable looking rifles that are awkward to hold and difficult to carry slung. Call it a pet peeve. -- Kernel
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Northwest Cajun
New member
MyWalnut rifle stock came with a hole already drilled, I found an adapter (2R)that Harris makes that fit in the hole. All I needed to do is remove a little wood from the inside of the stock. You dont make the hole bigger just a recessed area for the base to fit it. A little epoxy and I was up and running.
Cajun
Cajun
Northwest Cajun
New member
El Rojo
Is that what that hole is there for? Why would it need to be there? Should there be gas escaping from the gas plug?
Is it there only if you had a rutpure?
Because I closed the hole,Could that be why I have had some erratic groups? The first round is alwayse 2" high and 2' left then it settles down, change the mag then first round 2" high & 2" left. If I keep the magazine in and load from the top group stays consistant.
Any advise would be graetly appreicated
Cajun
Is that what that hole is there for? Why would it need to be there? Should there be gas escaping from the gas plug?
Is it there only if you had a rutpure?
Because I closed the hole,Could that be why I have had some erratic groups? The first round is alwayse 2" high and 2' left then it settles down, change the mag then first round 2" high & 2" left. If I keep the magazine in and load from the top group stays consistant.
Any advise would be graetly appreicated
Cajun
Guys,
If you had read the Old Thread link above, and the Old Thread link within that link, you'd found all these questions have already been asked and answered.
The existing hole is there to let water drain if the rifle is ever completely submerged. Doubtful I'd ever need the feature. If my M1A fell in a river, after crying, the first thing I'd do is a detail strip clean. I'd never consider shooting it full of water.
In my case, when installing the flange-nut, I actually drilled a new hole so the existing hole is still there for drainage in the unlikely event it's ever needed. I used a 2A nut (picture on the Old Thread link) but flipped the flange from the way it's shown. The 2 or 2R should work just as well.
I doubt just blocking the drain hole would cause accuracy problems. Though if part of the stock is touching or rubbing on the gas system it definitely could.
El Rojo, you problem sounds like classic bedding shift and is very common in semi auto rifles. The mag and it's interplay between the receiver and the stock is causing some kind of harmonic. After the first shot recoil forces cause the mag to "lock in" and the harmonic goes away. That's my guess.
My M1A throws the first shot too (same as my Ruger Ranch). I always attributed to the difference in the bedding & bolt lock-up caused by chambering the first rd by hand all the subsequent rds being chambered by the gas system. I never thought to leave the mag in and feed the rds one by one.
A proper bedding job would make the problem go away. My problem is I'm to cheap to have it done by a professionally that knows what they're doing, and to lazy (or maybe it's to smart) to try and do it myself. Bedding a bolt action rifle or a 10/22 is one thing. Bedding a M1A, Garand, or Mini, is part science, part experience, and part art. -- Kernel
If you had read the Old Thread link above, and the Old Thread link within that link, you'd found all these questions have already been asked and answered.
The existing hole is there to let water drain if the rifle is ever completely submerged. Doubtful I'd ever need the feature. If my M1A fell in a river, after crying, the first thing I'd do is a detail strip clean. I'd never consider shooting it full of water.
In my case, when installing the flange-nut, I actually drilled a new hole so the existing hole is still there for drainage in the unlikely event it's ever needed. I used a 2A nut (picture on the Old Thread link) but flipped the flange from the way it's shown. The 2 or 2R should work just as well.
I doubt just blocking the drain hole would cause accuracy problems. Though if part of the stock is touching or rubbing on the gas system it definitely could.
El Rojo, you problem sounds like classic bedding shift and is very common in semi auto rifles. The mag and it's interplay between the receiver and the stock is causing some kind of harmonic. After the first shot recoil forces cause the mag to "lock in" and the harmonic goes away. That's my guess.
My M1A throws the first shot too (same as my Ruger Ranch). I always attributed to the difference in the bedding & bolt lock-up caused by chambering the first rd by hand all the subsequent rds being chambered by the gas system. I never thought to leave the mag in and feed the rds one by one.
A proper bedding job would make the problem go away. My problem is I'm to cheap to have it done by a professionally that knows what they're doing, and to lazy (or maybe it's to smart) to try and do it myself. Bedding a bolt action rifle or a 10/22 is one thing. Bedding a M1A, Garand, or Mini, is part science, part experience, and part art. -- Kernel