M1 Garand: What Do I Look For?

Single Six

New member
Thinking about buying my father in-law's M1 Garand, but the more I read about these rifles, the more scary it becomes. So much info to process! I'm not looking for a pristine, numbers-matching collector's piece. I want a decent, non-re-welded ,reliable shooter, that's all. About all I know is that you're supposed to buy Garand-specific 30.06 ammo, because modern ammo will supposedly beat the rifle to death. Can you guys tell me what problems to watch out for, as well as what good points to look for in these rifles, and what I should expect to pay for what I've described? Also, are they especially hard to maintain? Thanks, y'all.
 

the rifleer

New member
Just use M1 ammo with it and you are fine. Since its someone you know, ask to shoot it. If it works the way you want it to and you like it, buy it. You have an advantage because you usually can't shoot a gun before you buy it.
 

GONIF

New member
I would bring it to a gunsmith who knows Garands. If he checks it out and it is good to go,ask the gunsmith what the rifle is worth then ask your father in law what he wants for it . It is hard to put a value on a rifle without seeing it . Some are worth more just because of the manufacturer . Check out rack grade garands at CMP ,they will give you a good rifle at a fair price.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...wPjPAw&usg=AFQjCNEZHcRfrUDPINQ1zrjPhs80ckFtGw
 

dwwhite

New member
Take a look at the CMP forums, those guys are a wealth of info on Garands. If I'm not mistaken, there may even be a sticky somewhere about buying a used M1.
 

Mobuck

Moderator
How has your FIL used the rifle and how well did it perform for him? I wouldn't nitpick a family heirloom firearm if it was functioning and showed half decent accuracy.
 

Chris_B

New member
Wouldn't get a 'numbers matching' M1 anyway ;)

Most parts have a Drawing Number, not a Serial Number. And if it makes you feel better, the US military swapped and mixed parts routinely. Nobody cared if a 1941 Winchester M1 had a 1946 Springfield operating rod. Dirty parts go in a bucket, somebody scrubs them, then parts going onto the next rifle- not the one they came from

And as for original parts, Uncle Sam up-revved drawings, and for example, 'short forks' were supposed to be discarded in favor of the new rev parts...back in the 1940s. I wouldn't sweat that stuff and in most cases, you want the newer rev parts in your shooter- plus, nobody outside of serious collectors really cares or can even tell the difference 99 times out of 100 if all the parts are original or from the correct drawing lot

As for ammo required, ask on the CMP forums about chamber pressures and gas port pressures, receiver heel recoil of the bolt, and ammunition
 

Single Six

New member
Thanks for all replies thus far. Mobuck: Actually, it's not quite a family heirloom..he only bought it a few years back. He shot it maybe once; I even shot it a few times one day. It worked fine. Being a total newbie when it comes to Garands, I just don't want to get burned by some as yet unseen defect...not that my father in-law would intentionally do such a thing, but heck, he's no expert on them either.
 

NWPilgrim

New member
I would check the CMP web site store for current prices of different grades. I bought another Springfield Armory post-WWII in July and it was $595 plus tax (ought it at Camp Perry).

ODCMP site: http://www.odcmp.com/Sales/rifles.htm

CMP discussion forums: http://forums.thecmp.org/index.php

Rack grades are $395 I think, and Field Grade is $495, and SG is $595. Special grades are $895 and $995.

These are prices for Springfield Armory (SA) and Harrington&Richardson (HRA) rifles. Winchesters (WRA) tend to cost a couple of hundred more in each grade.

The most common are SA, about 4-5million of the total 6 million are SA. Winchester and H&R each made approx. half a million each. Winchester only in the first part of WWII and H&R only post-WWII for Korea.

International Harvester (IHC) made some but had a lot of trouble and SA made many of their parts.

If your Dad got it from the CMP then it is a generally sound rifle. Since these are all used conditions vary greatly from shot out to near pristine. Most can use a new op rod spring right off and they are cheap. $8 ea from http://www.m1garand.com/m1-garand/m1-garand-parts-accessories/

Some things to look for:

- Ideally you want to know the relative throat erosion and muzzle wear, expressed as values from 1 to 5 or more. Under 5 is good, over 5 is getting worn (very generalized). If it came from CMP it should have had a tag or something indicating these. If not, then at least look down the ore to see if the rifling is sharp, pitted, worn, etc. The check the muzzle crown. Many Garands have nice rifling but lots of muzzle wear from endless cleaning rod sessions. You can roughly check this by inserting a .30-06 cartridge tip first into the muzzle. If the bullet jams about 3/4 of the way to the case mouth then the wear is not bad. If it slips in all the way to the case mouth then it is worn. A gunsmith can recrown this kind of wear and if the rifling is goo you are set.

- Pull the bolt back and examine the locking lugs, and bolt face and receiver friction points. Do they look worn and well rounded or dinged up, or fresh and sharp? Most will look OK , but if you see banged up lugs or receiver then a previous owner may have shot hot loads in it or with a weak op rod spring.

- The op rod is another part to examine but is a bit more too explain. If you can borrow it and log into the CMP forums guys will be happy to help you assess what you have.

- Most of the parts can be replaced and as long as the receiver is in good shape you can rebuild any grade Garand. Op rods are about $90 (I replaced one of mine that was "uncut"), but only NEED replacing is they are bent or out of spec (not often unless abused). Barrels are about $200 and up. Stocks are about $120 and stock metal another $30. Bolts are $60-$100 or more.

Either take it to a gunsmith familiar with the Garand, or ask for help on assessing value of it on the CMP forums. They can help you identify if it has any collector value, what to look for to determine safety and usability, and recommend what to replace if anything. Also how to disassemble, and reassemble.
 

Doc TH

New member
M1 Garand

All the comments above are correct. Most commercial 150 gr ball ammo (e.g., UMC) will work well in that Garand - don't go to 180 gr or 220 gr '06 ammo.
If the Garand was hard to maintain, it wouldn't have the reputation it earned in WW II and Korea, and that it has maintained since in competition shooting. It worked in ice and snow, in hot and humid Pacific theaters, and in sand and mud. It is a superbly designed and executed combat rifle, probably among the best of all time.
 

gdvan01

New member
You need to be especially careful with one thing regarding Garands:


Once you hear the 'PING' you'll be HOOKED! I still giggle a little every time I hear it...


:D
 

madcratebuilder

New member
CMP current Field grade prices run $500-700 depending on manufacturer. Service grades are $900 and special service grades are $1K. Correct grade is $1100.

There is a large supply of Greek HXP M2 ball on the market at .65 a round.

Even a well worn Garand is worth $450-500. A lot of them on the used market, most are over CMP prices, occasionally a good deal comes around. My patience was rewarded with this new Kreiger barreled NM Garand for less than a service grade, right place, right time.

garand02.jpg


Plus a few boxes of this.

NMammo01.jpg
 

chris in va

New member
Ditto. My Field Grade has been stellar. Wood had 'character', but I didn't want something that looked like it was rebuilt. Hundreds of Garand loads through mine since last May. Best $495 I ever spent.

Do yourself a favor. Give either CMP store a call, talk with the nice customer service people and meet the eligibility requirements. If you're reasonably close by (I drove 6 hours) go have a look at the hundreds of Garands and pick the one that speaks to you, with their help of course.

Otherwise they can ship directly to your house for an additional $25 or so.
 
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