M1 Garand - How to pick one?

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nass

New member
I am planning on going to the CMP store when they reopen on the 6th of September and picking up a M1 Garand (maybe a Carbine too). I am expecting to be overwhelmed with a plethora of choices, so how do I choose one?

Muzzle gage, Throat gage, wood, serial number.

Where do I start? Anywhere to start reading?

Thanks in advance.
 
C

Chris_B

New member
Well since I just went through this...

I have a "Service grade" M1 rifle. My Dad has a "Field grade"

Both were re-barelled. His however shows a small bit of corrosion on the gas vent, and it is a rifle that although in nice shape, was not very well cared for but is perfectly serviceable, respectable, and shoots well

My Service grade has a very, very nice receiver. Not perfect of course. Much nicer than Field grade. No corrosion. In general a little bit better all around. haven't fired it yet, but after the wood cleans up it will be a nice looking rifle

However, the wood on these CMP rifles seems to be the luck of the draw. The Field grade rifle my Dad has has superior wood to my Service grade. We were both a little disappointed in the wood, but mechanically no complaints, and admittedly, the wood should clean up fairly well. I feel the extra 100 dollars was well spent on the Service grade
 
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auberg

New member
I've gone to both stores this year. The south one twice. You probably will be overwhelmed, but it is so much fun too. That being said, you probably will have a lot to choose from, look around, borrow the muzzle and throat guages, if you don't know how to use them, ask the staff. I've always started by looking for the ones that "spoke" to me, and then measured them. Take your time and find the right one for you. But don't just let the measurements dictate which one you go home with.

Most importantly, enjoy the time you spend there.

Happy Hunting.
 
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nass

New member
I have this feeling that I am going to be completely overwhelmed. I am not looking for a showroom perfect example (nor can I afford it), but rather a nice shooting example that has the history to go along with it. I would love to shoot a local Garand match just for fun.

Grandpa was a POW in WW2. I have a feeling he would be just a bit sentimental over something like this if I was to get it before he passes.

So what should I be looking for in the gage measurements? I'll be looking at general condition and go from there...
 
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crowbeaner

New member
auberg; and all this time I thought I was the only one that guns "spoke" to. I never mention it to people because they get this funny look on their face. Guess I don't have the problem I thought I had. Thanks. CB.
 
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Tim R

New member
Buy the metal not the stock. Figure out what you want, then go from there.

I went to the North store while at Perry for the NRA week. I have a great service grade, but wanted a VAR barrel. I found a field grade (all they had) which had the VAR plus a lockbar rear sight. I got it home and discovered the op-rod was a uncut -6. I don't care for the stock, it's a Dane, but with a little $ this too can be fixed.

I've been cleaning the rifle, stopped long enough to function test which it did. Next I'm going to see if it will group.
 
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nass

New member
OK, so tell me about the metal... VAR barrel had tighter manufacturing control?? certain recievers better than others?

I guess anything can be fixed, but how bad is too bad?
 
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MythBuster

New member
All GI receivers are pretty much the same as far as quality. Winchester's sometimes have a "rough" finish and H&R's "look" nicer.

SA is the most common.
 
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auberg

New member
Nass, What they are saying about the metal is correct. A stock is really easy to replace. As far as the measurements, the worst (a field grade) that I got this year, measured a 2 on the muzzle and 4 on the throat. The finish on the metal (Parkerization) was pretty good, the trigger group was mint. The only thing I can figure that made it a Field grade instead of Service grade, was the foreward handguard had some repairs to it. The other 2 garands I bought this year were service grades. 1 of them had a 1+ on the muzzle and 2+ on the throat. It was a Danish return and had the VAR barrel on it.
All of that said, most people will tell you that about a 3 on the muzzle and 5 on the throat is about as high as you want to go. There are others that will tell you that you can go much higher and still have a good shooter.

So, back to what I said before. Find several that you like and then measure them, take the one that speaks to you.

Sorry for the long post.

BTW, this is how I found all three of mine. All have been good shooters.
 
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nass

New member
Thanks for the info. Stupid question, but what is the VAR barrel?

I am sure getting excited for this trip. I just hope it isn't a zoo on opening day...
 
3

30Cal

New member
I start with looking at muzzles (I want rifles that will shoot well). I like a 2 or better on the muzzle gage. After that, I look at finish and then stock.

I came across this site http://www.trfindley.com/pgstkrest.html sometime ago and have considered it.

If you want your stock restored to exactly match the date of the reciever this man an do it.
Click to expand...
:barf::barf::barf::mad:

I come across those stocks at almost every gun show I've been too. It's funny how the guys selling them always claim they found them in a USAF warehouse. And then some newb who doesn't have a Master's Degree on JCG get's humped to the tune of $400.

If you want to restore a rifle, then buy a real stock and not the humped up junk. If you can't afford it, then find a hobby that you can afford.
 
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nass

New member
I can see how muzzle tightness is a good indication of the "final farewell" portion of the barrel, but how much influence does the throat have?

There's probably a pretty good chance you can't get a gutted throat without a good muzzle. correct?
 
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auberg

New member
The VAR barrel is a replacement barrel that the Danes put on the rifles when they were rebuilt. The are a very good replacement, some people say better than the original barrels. I really don't know, but as soon as I found that the barrel was like new, I took it. I have since replaced the stock with a new one. It has turned out to shoot better than I do. To be honest, all of my Garands shoot better than I do, but that's another thread.
 
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Nevertoomanyguns

New member
It must be nice to directly to the stores. I bought a Greek springfield last year from them but I order it online and played the lets see what I get game. I ended up with a very nice may 1945 m1. Lets just say I am very happy with it and it shoots like a dream. I may even shoot my maine moose with it this year. I just recieved a notice from cmp today and they have a limited supply of like 1000 cmp select grade garands coming in. Good luck.
 
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30Cal

New member
I can see how muzzle tightness is a good indication of the "final farewell" portion of the barrel, but how much influence does the throat have?

There's probably a pretty good chance you can't get a gutted throat without a good muzzle. correct?
Click to expand...

The throat has very little influence on accuracy. The muzzle is the most important part (and the most easily damaged thanks to the USGI 3 piece steel cleaning rod). MW is driven almost entirely by the number of times that cleaning rod has been in the barrel, so it's common to find otherwise servicible barrels which have been cleaned to death.

TE10 was USGI reject. Even then, as long as the muzzle is OK, it ought to shoot well.
 
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