M1 Garand Front Sight Loose
- Thread starter baddarryl
- Start date
It shouldn't need Loctite, but it shouldn't shoot loose either. Tighten it, hand tight or just replace the screw($2.50 at Gunparts). Mind you, a National Match front sight is only $32.60 at Gunparts. That requires a sight pusher to install correctly. Then you get to sight in again.
I never needed to on my M1A.
When it comes to "Loctite" on gun screws it's important to use the right one for what you want. Loctite makes a whole range of products, some of which are meant to be permanent. You don't want to use permanent Loctite on a screw you might need to remove once in a while...
I use a product called "Guntite" (I think its a Loctite product but I don't have the tube handy to check..
) The tube I have (when I find it...) has green lettering on the label, not red or blue, and its made for gun screws. Holds well (never had a screw loosen) and the screws come out normally with the right screwdriver.
The key is to ensure all oil and grease is removed from the threads of both the screw and the screw hole. Then a drop of guntite will hold very well.
Another trick is to use a drop of paint or nail polish so that when dried it overlaps the screwhead and what its screwed into. This holds fairly well, and is also a "tell" that you can see crack if the screw does move.
Staking and the extreme, tack-welding can be done, but I consider that a last resort.
When it comes to "Loctite" on gun screws it's important to use the right one for what you want. Loctite makes a whole range of products, some of which are meant to be permanent. You don't want to use permanent Loctite on a screw you might need to remove once in a while...
I use a product called "Guntite" (I think its a Loctite product but I don't have the tube handy to check..
) The tube I have (when I find it...) has green lettering on the label, not red or blue, and its made for gun screws. Holds well (never had a screw loosen) and the screws come out normally with the right screwdriver.The key is to ensure all oil and grease is removed from the threads of both the screw and the screw hole. Then a drop of guntite will hold very well.
Another trick is to use a drop of paint or nail polish so that when dried it overlaps the screwhead and what its screwed into. This holds fairly well, and is also a "tell" that you can see crack if the screw does move.
Staking and the extreme, tack-welding can be done, but I consider that a last resort.
bamaranger
New member
loose
Be sure and diagnose the problem correctly. A loose front sight assembly is one thing and can be solved as described by others. However, if the gas cylinder is overly loose on the splines of the barrel, the whole cylinder, with sight assembly attached, will be loose, regardless of how tight the front sight screw is tightened.
Lightly peening the splines, or staking small detents will tighten a loose gas cylinder.
Be sure and diagnose the problem correctly. A loose front sight assembly is one thing and can be solved as described by others. However, if the gas cylinder is overly loose on the splines of the barrel, the whole cylinder, with sight assembly attached, will be loose, regardless of how tight the front sight screw is tightened.
Lightly peening the splines, or staking small detents will tighten a loose gas cylinder.
lordmorgul
New member
If it has threads I put threadlocker on it. Just pick the right compound.
(But Red Devil is 100% correct, dry threads are bad juju, but also consider that proper torque specs vary depending on the applied lubricant, so slightly under torque with threadlocker, or grease and go to listed torque, no torque spec is set at dry threads unless it is a high lubricity type alloy, especially NOT if it’s a steel thread into aluminum!)
Andrew - Lancaster, CA
NRA Life Member, Calguns.net contributor, CGF / SAF / CRPA / FPC / USCCA member
(But Red Devil is 100% correct, dry threads are bad juju, but also consider that proper torque specs vary depending on the applied lubricant, so slightly under torque with threadlocker, or grease and go to listed torque, no torque spec is set at dry threads unless it is a high lubricity type alloy, especially NOT if it’s a steel thread into aluminum!)
Andrew - Lancaster, CA
NRA Life Member, Calguns.net contributor, CGF / SAF / CRPA / FPC / USCCA member
For setting my gas cylinder, I visually confirm that the gas port is infront of the OP piston, the screw the lock to hold that position, when the lock is at the 4:30 position, then peen the spine grooves to prevent rearward movement and then draw the lock to the 6 o'clock position.
The armorers developed the "saw cut" modification, using the front sight screw tightenting the GC in-place.
The armorers developed the "saw cut" modification, using the front sight screw tightenting the GC in-place.
MagnumWill
New member
The front sight on mine was insanely tight. I decided to replace it with a .062 NM front sight, and I ended up having to support the rifle, clamp the front sight wings in the vise, and use WD-40, a very good Allen wrench socket and patience and I was able to get it loose. To your point, I used a little Red loctite and got it relatively tight. I'll let you know if it works it's way loose in a week or two when I get out to shoot it.
Heat is your friend
Heat is the ticket to release Loctite. I generally use a "sacrificial" screwdriver bit. Heat the bit, not the part.
Your nose will tell you when enough heat has transferred to replace the now soft sacrificial bit with a fresh one that fits.
Loctite has a sweet, distinctive odor that tells you when it is time to apply the torque.
Heat is the ticket to release Loctite. I generally use a "sacrificial" screwdriver bit. Heat the bit, not the part.
Your nose will tell you when enough heat has transferred to replace the now soft sacrificial bit with a fresh one that fits.
Loctite has a sweet, distinctive odor that tells you when it is time to apply the torque.