M&P 15 immediate upgrades?
- Thread starter dvdcrr
- Start date
DubC-Hicks
New member
H buffer is a nice upgrade, ST-T2 or H2 would even likely be fine. New stock and new grip. I like the BCM gunfighter furniture a lot, and the MOE SL stocks. But there are tons of options out there these days.
As far as trigger, Larue currently only offers two stage. If you're familiar with single vs two stage triggers and do like two stage, Larue is a solid option, especially for the price.
My biggest advice is shoot it as is, and figure out what you like and what you don't like about how it's currently configured. Change parts accordingly.
As far as trigger, Larue currently only offers two stage. If you're familiar with single vs two stage triggers and do like two stage, Larue is a solid option, especially for the price.
My biggest advice is shoot it as is, and figure out what you like and what you don't like about how it's currently configured. Change parts accordingly.
DubC-Hicks said:
I was typing the exact same thing when I looked up and saw this paragraph. There always needs to be some sort of basline with a factory configured rifle. So I'd just add an optic of your choice if you plan on using one, and spend time with the rifle going through the paces.
How the rifle feels and shoots should tell you what you'll need. My guess is you won't need to change out much of anything. I've shot a lot of M-16A2 and M-4 rifles over the years, and even with milspec parts most shoot better than the people pulling the trigger.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I’d say determine your intended use and equip accordingly.
stagpanther
New member
The very first thing I'd do is field strip clean the bore and carrier and lubricate as recommended.
603Country
New member
The grandson’s Grendel has a single stage Geiselle, whereas my 223 has a 2 stage LaRue. I prefer the LaRue and just ordered one for my Grendel.
First thing to do is clean and lubricate.
Second thing to do, shoot the gun and make sure it operates properly and zero the iron sights
Third thing to do is buy an optic then mount and zero that.
While you were doing those things, thats the time decided what you feel you want, or that the gun needs.
I like the magpul ctr stock as it reduces the rattle of the stock on the tube and makes it feel more stable.
I also like the magpul moe and k2 grips. But you just need to find what feels good to your hand.
As far as a trigger goes. I generally keep the factory trigger and put in a JP enhanced reliability spring kit. Drops the pull weight, cleans up the pull, all for $10.40. If you want a really nice trigger the larue mbt 2s gets my vote.
For a defense gun i feel a light is necessary.
I prefer vertical grips mounted farther out. I can grab them, or use them as a hand stop. Not a fan of angled forgrips. But thats personal preference.
As far as the buffer goes, that is individual to each gun. Brass should eject at the 3 to 4 o'clock position. Basically straight sudeways, or back just a little. If its going forward in any kind of way, you need a heavier buffer. They also make extra power springs. Generally rule of thumb, you want the heaviest buffer your gun will lock open on. Bur again you need to assess your brass ejection while performing the function check and zeroing the gun.
Far too many people buy a gun, mod it, and wonder why it does not work. Shoot it. Make sure it works. Change one thing at a time, so if things stop working, you know why and you dont have to take everything off the gun.
Second thing to do, shoot the gun and make sure it operates properly and zero the iron sights
Third thing to do is buy an optic then mount and zero that.
While you were doing those things, thats the time decided what you feel you want, or that the gun needs.
I like the magpul ctr stock as it reduces the rattle of the stock on the tube and makes it feel more stable.
I also like the magpul moe and k2 grips. But you just need to find what feels good to your hand.
As far as a trigger goes. I generally keep the factory trigger and put in a JP enhanced reliability spring kit. Drops the pull weight, cleans up the pull, all for $10.40. If you want a really nice trigger the larue mbt 2s gets my vote.
For a defense gun i feel a light is necessary.
I prefer vertical grips mounted farther out. I can grab them, or use them as a hand stop. Not a fan of angled forgrips. But thats personal preference.
As far as the buffer goes, that is individual to each gun. Brass should eject at the 3 to 4 o'clock position. Basically straight sudeways, or back just a little. If its going forward in any kind of way, you need a heavier buffer. They also make extra power springs. Generally rule of thumb, you want the heaviest buffer your gun will lock open on. Bur again you need to assess your brass ejection while performing the function check and zeroing the gun.
Far too many people buy a gun, mod it, and wonder why it does not work. Shoot it. Make sure it works. Change one thing at a time, so if things stop working, you know why and you dont have to take everything off the gun.
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Funny you should ask. I am currently upgrading 4 M&P-15 rifles for a customer. All dead stock, A-2 style handguards, A2 style birdcage muzzle device, standard S&W collapsible buttstock. Moved the customer up to a thinner free-float rail, new grip for comfort, new buttstock with a rubbery buttplate so it stays in place when shooting, new muzzle device to tame the flash, low-pro gas block. I left the triggers alone because they were fine at about 4 lbs, left the buffer alone because it worked fine when it left the factory. Already had optics on, so I left that alone as well.
Now if this is going to be about going all Barbie-Doll and dressing it up, that's a whole new thread.
Now if this is going to be about going all Barbie-Doll and dressing it up, that's a whole new thread.
PatientWolf
New member
I would add a Magpul BAD lever.
bamaranger
New member
trigger
I recently bought a M&P15 Sport, an early one with the 5R barrel. First addition was an LPV scope, and I've added a fixed buttstock. What it really needs is a good trigger, but the optic and stock were cheaper!
To quote Jeff Cooper, ..."your trigger is your connection to the target". Not sure what after market trigger I will select just yet. Simple is better for me, some type of upgraded GI number would likely suit just fine.
I recently bought a M&P15 Sport, an early one with the 5R barrel. First addition was an LPV scope, and I've added a fixed buttstock. What it really needs is a good trigger, but the optic and stock were cheaper!
To quote Jeff Cooper, ..."your trigger is your connection to the target". Not sure what after market trigger I will select just yet. Simple is better for me, some type of upgraded GI number would likely suit just fine.
I would highly reccomended the jp enhanced reliability spring kit. Its $10.40 off midway. Takes about a pound and a half off the pull weight but it still runs 100% with all primers. Just swap the springs and your done. I have used the kit several times, never regretted it. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1003366096
bamaranger
New member
duly noted
Thanks Shadow.
Affordable is always an option with me!
Thanks Shadow.
Affordable is always an option with me!
mikejonestkd
New member
I have used the same JP spring kit on several ARs and it makes a difference.
Otherwise, I'd leave the smith AR alone until you have a decent amount of range time with it
Otherwise, I'd leave the smith AR alone until you have a decent amount of range time with it
The M&P 15s are just fine. Don't forget, mil spec is the lowest bidder....Immediately trade it in on a 5.56 Colt, ... or one of the Teir 1 level clones. Last I looked S&W M&Ps ain't T-1s.
A brief use of Google-fu will reveal the current makes of ARs that qualify for Teir 1 status. No need to chase down a Navy SEAL and ask.
Bingo. Amazes me that folks still get wrapped up in the "Colt" or nothing thing.