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Lubrication and rotating barrels
- Thread starter Larry C.
- Start date
I have 2 Beretta Cougars and one Stoeger Cougar, all of which have a rotary barrel breech lockup mechanism like that of the Beretta PX4 Storm full-size and compact.
My opinion is that the rotary barrel mechanism is happier if it is run a bit "wet". I think this is the general consensus judging from what I have read on berettaforum dot net and other forums over the course of quite a few years. But there are dissenting opinions.
I use a thin film of grease on the bearing surfaces within the slide that the barrel rotates on, on the barrel itself, on the camming grooves on the barrel underside, on the central block, and especially on the tooth of the central block.
If you field strip, clean, and lubricate your pistol frequently, oil will probably do just as well.
When my Cougars are starting to get a bit dry, I can feel the action starting to get balky when cycling the slide by hand.
My opinion is that the rotary barrel mechanism is happier if it is run a bit "wet". I think this is the general consensus judging from what I have read on berettaforum dot net and other forums over the course of quite a few years. But there are dissenting opinions.
I use a thin film of grease on the bearing surfaces within the slide that the barrel rotates on, on the barrel itself, on the camming grooves on the barrel underside, on the central block, and especially on the tooth of the central block.
If you field strip, clean, and lubricate your pistol frequently, oil will probably do just as well.
When my Cougars are starting to get a bit dry, I can feel the action starting to get balky when cycling the slide by hand.
With both of my PX4 (9mm and .45; sold the .45), I had all the metal refinished by CCR in cera-plate (nickel-boron). I ran them dry once to see if it would be ok... and they ran. Light grease is how I keep/kept them.
But I prefer adding grease to my handguns. I do oil on certain rifle designs, when appropriate. But I try to do grease on most parts that can accept it.
But I prefer adding grease to my handguns. I do oil on certain rifle designs, when appropriate. But I try to do grease on most parts that can accept it.
ferrarif1fan
New member
Metal to metal sliding contact is generally a bad idea, whatever the machine. I also have both the Beretta Cougar and PX4, which both use the rotating barrel design. They are great pistols. I run lightweight gun grease not only the slot in the barrel where the tooth of the cam runs, but also on the O.D. of the barrel. I also use gun grease, rather than oil, on the frame rails as well.
I use gun grease because it stays put, whereas oil has a tendency to run, or evaporate. I tend to put a very light coat of gun grease anywhere I notice the metal shows a wear mark. My goal is to reduce the amount of wear on my pistols as much as is possible to keep them tight, which maintains accuracy.
I use gun grease because it stays put, whereas oil has a tendency to run, or evaporate. I tend to put a very light coat of gun grease anywhere I notice the metal shows a wear mark. My goal is to reduce the amount of wear on my pistols as much as is possible to keep them tight, which maintains accuracy.
I have a PX-4 compact that locked up during firing once. (Actually belongs to my daughter, but she lives in a location that does not allow personally owned pistols and, being a good dad, I keep it exercised for her.) I switched to grease and haven't had a problem since. I agree with the first post that running them wet, either by greasing or by oiling fairly often, is advisable.
rt11002003
New member
I use a thin coating of SIG grease (came with my X-Series guns) on the rotating barrel of my Grand Power X Kaliber.