Lower and AR-15 Build Questions

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briang2ad

New member
Can I get into a GOOD lower with a GOOD trigger for less than $230 complete?

What is a good rear fixed sight?

Also, what rail on the front less than $200 and can be installed easily? I'd like it to cover the handguard band/keeper as much as possible. I've seen a DD one that looks decent.

IF you build, do you usually end up with a DIFFERENT looking finish on your top and bottom units??? I figure a good build would start with a BCM upper, which if I buy the right one would run about $525 complete (upper+BCM).

On the other hand, there are some good deals on complete rifles right now.

Thanks.
 
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Longdayjake

New member
Troy makes a nice handguard for under $200. You should buy a low profile gas block (what you refer to as the band keeper) and a handguard long enough to cover it. As far as lowers go, there are all kinds of cheap ones floating around but your idea of good lower and trigger could be different from anothers idea.
 
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briang2ad

New member
I would stick with a BCM which already has the front sight frame - I kinda like the look.

Also, I suppose I could still add whatever optic even with fixed sights???

What lower kits are recommended to stay under $230???

I guess a 1:7 is not a handicap below 62 gr as long as it is FMJ.

Thanks.
 
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thesheepdog

New member
I would stick with a BCM which already has the front sight frame - I kinda like the look.

Also, I suppose I could still add whatever optic even with fixed sights???

What lower kits are recommended to stay under $230???

I guess a 1:7 is not a handicap below 62 gr as long as it is FMJ.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I prefer flip-up sights, but yes, you can co-witness your rifle sights with low powered optics (ACOG, Eotech, Aimpoint). Though for long range, I would recommend flip up sights, because thefixed sights can make a blur on your sight picture and possibly degrade your accuracy.

DPMS has a good lower kit.
1:7 can generally shoot about anything. So can the 1:9 and 1:8(.5)
 
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briang2ad

New member
Are these AS GOOD as say a S&W or CMMG which have all the "Milspec" standards on "the chart"?

WOuld these have a trigger as good as a S&W? I've also felt some STAGS and RRAs that were really good. I was thinking also of an RRA stripped lower adding a RRA trigger ($121), a parts kit all for under $200. I have the grip and buttstock.

Just don't want to end up with a gritty trigger - again, whole S&Ws are pretty reasonable right now.
 
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Technosavant

New member
The roll mark on the lower means NOTHING. Not one single thing. The finish might differ slightly, but if you shoot the thing much at all, that's a moot point since you'll be wearing the finish.

So long as the lower is in spec (and there's very few that aren't), it's fine. The only difference is that some lowers have a slightly tighter magwell, so some magazines (like earlier generation Pmags) won't drop free (GI mags will). I've used CMMG and Superior Arms lowers. I currently have an Aero Precision at home waiting for me to get motivated to do something with it. The Superior Arms lower won't drop free some of my Pmags, but recent production ones will (Magpul revised the mag design to correct this).

For lower parts kits, I will say there is a difference, but mostly in assembly. I've used DPMS kits and RRA kits, and from here on out I plan to go RRA exclusively; they go in that much easier.

As for "The Chart," it means pretty much nothing when it comes to lowers- it really only discusses the kind of receiver extension and buffer weight some rifles have, and I've yet to experience anything where the supposed differences between a milspec and commercial sized extensions mean one single thing (beyond which stock will fit).

If you're trying to get a quality rifle for less, S&W is decent. I doubt you'd be disappointed with it. Ditto Rock River. If you're the tinkering type, go ahead and get a lower, LPK, stock kit, and order up a complete upper. It won't have the resale of a complete rifle, but if you want an investment, there's other things I'd recommend.
 
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Major Beef

New member
I got a surplus arms stripped lower receiver.

I can't tell you what the fit is like since I don't have a LPK to install. I can only tell you that the finish looks better than the lower receiver on my brand new S&W AR15.
 
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jman841

New member
I just put together a Spikes tactical lower today. it was my first time ever doing it and was surprisingly easy. Took about half an hour and didn't leave a single mark on the receiver.

I paid 89 bucks for the lower receiver and if you get the RA Match trigger for 120 that will put you around your price range and have an excellent trigger and a well built lower receiver.
 
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tirod

Moderator
Don't worry about a trigger unless the barrel is guaranteed 1/2MOA - and you can shoot it. Expensive triggers on plinker range rifles that shoot 2MOA - milspec - are more bling than the thing.

If it doesn't get good ammo to go with it, even more useless. If anyone is using a $150 trigger, they should have a $1200 AR, and $1 a round ammo. Cheap won't get there, surplus or reject is still 2MOA government standard - or worse.

That's what is wrong with specifying a great part when the total package won't do the job. A billet accelerator pedal isn't going to make Granma's Rambler gain a hundred horsepower, or jack up cornering to NASCAR levels. It's a cooperative system of enhanced parts correctly assembled that does it.

If the trigger did that much, a nice $200 sniper stock on a M4 should do the trick, too. I don't think so. Accuracy comes from barrels, and they can be shot with 10 pound triggers. Ask the guys using Glocks in competition, they can show you the trophy, where mishandling the trigger really counts.
 
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jman841

New member
and the ammunition. If you reload you can get some of the mil-spec AR's to fire right around 1 MOA. But honsetly, the stock trigger on an AR is pretty good for a military weapon IMO. If you have a Nicer end AR, reload for it, and are an excellent shot. It may be worth getting.
 
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