Looking for real-world experience using lead free bullets

Doyle

New member
I just ordered my first box of lead-free bullets to try (Hornady Superformance GMX). My question for those who have used them relates to grouping. I have read that gilding metal bullets group best when they ride on lands that have been fouled only by gilding metal. That is, if you shoot them through a barrel that has been shooting regular bullets your groups will start out pretty bad and only tighten up after half dozen or so gilding metal bullets have built up a new layer of fouling.

Therefore, it is best to start shooting lead-free bullets on a freshly cleaned barrel and then stick with those rather than go back and forth.

Does anyone have any experience which would either corroborate or refute those claims.
 

Picher

New member
I've been using GMX bullets in several rifles/calibers and haven't found any problems. Some rifles like them, some aren't crazy about them, but shoot fairly well in all I've tried.

Until last deer season, they've opened well on Maine deer, but one shot last season in the lungs by my son with a 30-06 at about 50 yards didn't open well, making tracking of a small buck a bit difficult, despite good tracking conditions in dry leaves.

The attached bullet photo shows a .270, 130 grain GMX bullet that killed a running buck from a tree stand that was running dead away at 40 yards. It traveled through the back and into the neck area, close to 30 inches.
 

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Doyle

New member
Thanks Picher. Did you happen to notice any group size difference between shooting them on a barrel fouled only by gilding metal vs a barrel fouled by ordinary ammo?
 

jmr40

New member
I've put about 100-150 Barnes 30 caliber copper bullets down range. About 1/2 130's and half 150's. I've never heard of this concept so I've not experimented to say for sure. But they tend to shoot very well in some rifles, only mediocre in others. In the rifles that like them I don't see anything improving accuracy.

I don't see the logic in worrying about it. The jacket on conventional bullets is the same metal as the solid copper bullets.
 

Doyle

New member
Thanks JMR40. Here is one author who has put forth that idea: https://ronspomeroutdoors.com/blog/hornady-superformance-ammo-tested/

How do those 130's in .30 cal perform for you? My box of Superformance 150s came in today. If those don't work well, I may pick up some TTSX 130s and load some. I've seen references to really fast velocities with that weight. I have zero intention of shooting an animal beyond about 400 yds, but the range between about 275 and 400 is where my other deer rifle falls too short and that is the ideal for a 130gr bullet starting out at 3100+fps.
 

taylorce1

New member
My daughter started killing deer with the 55 grain TSX bullet. I was impressed with how well they hammered deer. My daughter and I are shooting the 130 grain TTSX in the .300 Savage, we haven't killed anything yet with them but they shoot well. I'll probably try some in the .308 and .30-06 as well.
 

Picher

New member
No difference between the gilding metal TSX and regular gilding metal in my rifles, but Barnes copper bullets fouled terribly in my rifles, so I stopped using them.
 

taylorce1

New member
Picher said:
but Barnes copper bullets fouled terribly in my rifles, so I stopped using them.

That was a common problem with the Original Barnes Copper bullets, when they started cutting three grooves into the bullet it seemed to cure the fouling problems most hunters and shooters had.
 

Don Fischer

New member
Jacket material with lead core bullet's is gilding metal. The Barnes bullet's, old cup and core and present monolithic bullet's are made of copper. As I understood it Barnes did have a problem with copper fouling in their monolithic bullet's and that was where the rings around the bullet's came in. Haven't read anything about fouling with bullet's made of gilding metal.
 

Paul B.

New member
I've shot the Barnes TSX bullets in a .257 Roberts (100 gr.), 7x57 (120 and 140 gr.), .280 Remington (same bullets as in the 7x57) and .35 Whelen. (225 gr.).

I've had no problem with copper fouling. The results with the .257, 7x57 and .280 are good velocity but accuracy not what I'm looking for. More work needed there. On the other hand, the .35 Whelen has been a tack driver so far with groups usually about .50" and have never had one larger than .80".
Gamewise, shot shots with six dead elk. I'll get those other rifles to shooting well later on when it's not quite so hot and the summer rains quit.
Paul B.
 

Husqvarna

New member
Shot a few boxes NORMA naturalis thru one of my rifles because I won a driven hunt in Germany a few years back and they are leadfree

No problem with accuracy but I Kinda dont like to punch thru animals

Got some pretty long deadruns (english words for when a animal is hit and runs of to die???)
 

Mobuck

Moderator
I used some Nosler "E-tips" on deer last year out of 25/06. I was looking for a 100 grain bullet than wouldn't "blow up" occasionally. The E-tips didn't blow up for sure and one penetrated over 24" of deer before exiting on a raking quartering away hit at fairly close range.
If you use that type bullet, keep the weight down and the velocity up.
 
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