Bushwhacker
New member
DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A GOOD SMITH IN CHARLOTTE,NC THAT DOESN'T CHARGE A ARM & LEG THANKS.
LOCAL GUNSMITH
- Thread starter Bushwhacker
- Start date
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
I always go for the appendix in addition to the arm and leg. Inflation, you know. Flyer, talk to some of the local gun retailers. They usually know who's good and who's not. But, the good ones will usually be a little more expensive and worth it. George
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Bushwhacker
New member
Thanks GEORGE at least I wouldn't have to take out a third mortgage out on the the house 
But would you recomend that a"non-gunsmith" do it them selves?
[This message has been edited by FLYERM14 (edited 11-24-98).]
But would you recomend that a"non-gunsmith" do it them selves?[This message has been edited by FLYERM14 (edited 11-24-98).]
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
It depends on the job. There are a lot of gun projects that don't take anything more than a few simple tools, a good reference and patience. But, the best rule of thumb is read how it's done, what's required etc., and if it sounds like something that you can do yourself then try. But, anything that could concievably compromise the safety of a firearm should definitely be left to a gunsmith. George
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FlyerM14,
Gun Doc George Stringer gave some good advice. I'd like to add my 2 centavos.
Walther Howe's book, "Professional Gunsmithing" shows how its done with wood blocks carved out to cradle the barrel in a vise (and drill rod inserted to support barrel walls) and a hickory hammer handle to unscrew the frame.
Now, with all due respect to Mr. Howe, I wouldn't use that hickory handle because I'm too concerned about tweaking the frame. Better to use that special revolver frame wrench from Brownell's (512-623-4000. Goes for $82.97, cat#080-850-004) before tackling that one. Not a cheap proposition at all, is it?
Other concerns are indexing the barrel correctly. You don't want the sights to be offset either to port or starboard (and I don't think any of our readers are into gang banging shooting styles) and you also have to ensure that the barrel/cylinder gap isn't too tight (can you say jammed?) or too great (can you say flash?).
If you want to do it yourself, I suggest you hold off until you can attend a NRA revolver gunsmithing class. They're inexpensive and fun! Check out their link which is accessible through this website. If you can't wait, find a gunsmith or send it back to the folks at Springfield.
By the way, there's only three good things about Springfield, MA:
1) S&W and their National Academy
2) Springfield Armory National Hist. Site
3) Indian Motorcycle Museum (next door to the S&W National Academy).
Boy, did I drift off or what?
Gary
Gun Doc George Stringer gave some good advice. I'd like to add my 2 centavos.
Walther Howe's book, "Professional Gunsmithing" shows how its done with wood blocks carved out to cradle the barrel in a vise (and drill rod inserted to support barrel walls) and a hickory hammer handle to unscrew the frame.
Now, with all due respect to Mr. Howe, I wouldn't use that hickory handle because I'm too concerned about tweaking the frame. Better to use that special revolver frame wrench from Brownell's (512-623-4000. Goes for $82.97, cat#080-850-004) before tackling that one. Not a cheap proposition at all, is it?
Other concerns are indexing the barrel correctly. You don't want the sights to be offset either to port or starboard (and I don't think any of our readers are into gang banging shooting styles) and you also have to ensure that the barrel/cylinder gap isn't too tight (can you say jammed?) or too great (can you say flash?).
If you want to do it yourself, I suggest you hold off until you can attend a NRA revolver gunsmithing class. They're inexpensive and fun! Check out their link which is accessible through this website. If you can't wait, find a gunsmith or send it back to the folks at Springfield.
By the way, there's only three good things about Springfield, MA:
1) S&W and their National Academy
2) Springfield Armory National Hist. Site
3) Indian Motorcycle Museum (next door to the S&W National Academy).
Boy, did I drift off or what?
Gary
Bushwhacker
New member
Thanks guys , I think I'll leave it up to a "pro" to do it,by the time I buy all the special tools and all I could at least buy acouple more "guns" and won't have to justify all "those tools just sitting there"
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Flyer, I apologize. When I posted a reply to your question, I didn't realize you were talking about rebarreling a pistol. I was speaking in general. For your S&W take it to your local smith, box it up and send it to me or another smith but I think that a job like this falls into the catagory of "Don't try this at home." George
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Bushwhacker
New member
George, how much would you charge me for putting a 8.5 in. mag-na-ported bbl on it. Also needs a rear sight replacment, otherwise the revolver is in pretty good condition
Bushwhacker
New member
Thanks everyone for the advise and all.
Job has been sold to George Stringer.
Checked with 3 local gunsmiths;
1st: $345.
2nd:Can't do it, send it to factory (bbl only)
3rd: $260.00
George: Just under $200.00 for Mag-na-porting bbl, replace rear sight leaf and install red sight insert. Plus install laser sight.
[This message has been edited by FLYERM14 (edited 11-27-98).]
Job has been sold to George Stringer.
Checked with 3 local gunsmiths;
1st: $345.
2nd:Can't do it, send it to factory (bbl only)
3rd: $260.00
George: Just under $200.00 for Mag-na-porting bbl, replace rear sight leaf and install red sight insert. Plus install laser sight.
[This message has been edited by FLYERM14 (edited 11-27-98).]