Loading 43 mauser.

[chasep255]

I just fired my mauser 71/84 for the first time yesterday. It was my first experience with black powder and it was awesome. Last night I went to Buffalo Arms and unfortunately the ammo I bought last week is now out of stock. This is also the only 43 mauser I have been able to find for sale.
https://www.buffaloarms.com/43-maus...wder-ammo-385-grain-fn-box-of-20-amo43mauserb

I was planning on reloading this cartridge anyway once I shot through a few boxes of the ammo mentioned above so I guess now is the time to start. I have a lot of experience loading smokeless rifle cartridges but I have never worked with BP. I have so far put together the following list of components...

45 Cal Vegitable Fiber Wads: https://www.buffaloarms.com/45-caliber-rifle-060-vegetable-fiber-king-wads-bag-of-1000-kin45060vf

.446 Diameter Cast Bullets: https://www.buffaloarms.com/446-385...ube-from-rcbs-44-370fn-mould-box-of-50-446385

Lee Dies: https://www.buffaloarms.com/43-mauser-11-15x60r-lee-2-die-set-lee90806

Now I am kind of stuck on which powder to use. I looked at the load info on Goex's website and for 433 Mauser it lists 77 grains of FFF powder. However, I have heard elsewhere that FFF powder is to fast burning and that I should use FF instead. Does know of any other load data for 43 Mauser? Also I keep hearing that with black powder you measure by volume and not by weight. Do I need to get a new type of powder measure other than my scale?

http://www.goexpowder.com/images/LoadCharts/Cartridge-Rifle.pdf

Does anyone have and advice or want to share how they reload 43 mauser?

Also what wad diameter do I want? I can get .43, .44, and .45. I thought .45 might be best since the bullet is .446 diameter which is closets to .45?

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

Hey Chase,

Hope you de-capped and cleaned those BP cases you shot.
More on that later.

All my loading for the 43 mauser was with smokeless,
but I loaded for my 40-90 SBN with black, so maybe a few ideas.
Other may weigh in with other ideas and techniques.
Nothing but 2F thru any of mine.

Since you have not loaded BP, I'll start by saying that cleanliness is important
when loading.
Black is explosive, period. So keep static electricity out of the loading area and no smoking.
I make a point of loading on a big cookie sheet covered in paper so that I can catch spills and also
the BP dust, so that it will not build up in the loading area.
The white paper will show you the dust.

Attached is a pic of my 18" BP drop tube. I clamp it to the cookie sheet with a cowboy.
Mine is adjustable since I load 45-60 thru 50-90s with it, but yours could be fixed length if the .43 is your only caliber.
Simple to make by soldering a brass funnel onto a .308 case with the base cut off and then soldering that to the copper tubing.
Somebody probably sells one already made as well.

The drop tube is important to give the powder uniform compaction, which helps with a cleaner burn.
You can use a 45-70 case with the rim turned off, a handle soldered on, and trimmed to appropriate length for a scoop.
Always work volume, not weight, with NO airspace between the bullet and the wad.

The correct powder charge is determined by trial and error so that very slight (1/32" or so)
pressure is needed to seat the bullet onto the over-powder wad. No crushing down on the wad with the bullet. That will only harm accuracy.
Your store bought bullets take care of the proper lube angle.
Don't forget to calculate the wad thickness into the equation. I just use card wads punched from a milk carton.

I also duplex my 45-60 and 45-90 loads because they are thru Winchester lever guns and I want to reduce the BP blowback into the actions.
Duplexing also keeps your cases and barrel much cleaner.
Mine use about 10% 4759 dropped into the case before adding the BP, which is reduced in volume to allow for the smokeless.
The black ignites long before the smokeless, but the 4759 helps to scour the case clean and the barrel to a lesser extent.
Many frown on it for historic reasons
and most BPCR matches forbid it to level the field.
One can easily spot a duplexed gun by watching the muzzle when it fires.
Duplexing is your choice however.

I use a 310 tool with a de-capping die that accommodates 45-110s at the range to facilitate cleaning.
A Wilson .30 cal de-capping rod with a hammer works as well
After de-capping, they are dropped into a jug of soapy water and then cleaned with a bottle brush (auto parts store) when I'm home.
De-capping before cleaning allows water to be forced thru the primer pocket in a jet like action that cleans the interior of the case.

Sounds like a chore, but you'll settle into a routine on it quick enough.
If the gun starts to foul out, we can discuss lube cookies under the bullet.
The .43 has enough neck to handle it.

Long, I know, but you did ask!
JT

 

[Hawg]

If you want your cases to clean up shiny drop them in a jug of Windex as soon as you unload them. Don't worry about static electricity, it won't set off real bp. Real bp can be measured by weight same as smokeless. The subs must be weighed by volume. You do want to have some compression of the powder. Do not use smokeless lube.

 

[James K]

Hawg, is "real BP" a brand name or something? If you mean "real black powder" I don't understand your statement that it can be loaded by weight "same as smokeless". Yes, both kinds of powders can be loaded by weight, but NOT THE SAME WEIGHT. 70 grains of black powder would be reasonable in a trapdoor; 70 grains of smokeless would be a serious problem.

Jim

 

[Hawg]

Jim what I meant was real black powder can be weighed just like smokeless can on the same scale. Real 2F black will weigh close to the same as smokeless depending on which smokeless you're using. I was not saying you can use 70 grains of smokeless in lieu of 70 grains of black and I really don't see how you inferred that from what I said.