Light Trigger Pull up to 2 lbs, proves easy shooting.

[stdalire]

I just want to report that when me and Vega had a target practice last week, and the Colt Mark IV .45 having a 2 lbs trigger pull is easier to shoot, more controllable and better groupings "all in alpha if I used two hands".
With that in mind I would like to have my own 1911 be adjusted to 2 lbs trigger pull. Is it advisable and necessary to alter my original pistol trigger pull that I may not feel sorry later on.

Thanks



[This message has been edited by stdalire (edited May 03, 2000).]

 

[AndABeer]

Just have whoever you get to do the work use a new trigger, sear, sear spring, mainspring, and hammer. Keep the original parts unaltered in a plastic baggie somewhere safe and if you want to go back, then just put the old parts back in.

 

[ArmySon]

Good luck finding a smith that will lower your trigger pull to 2lbs.

 

[James K]

Two pounds is entirely too light for a 1911 type and below minimum for NRA matches. Not only is it unsafe, but it is so light that having the hammer drop to the half cock notch is entirely possible. And it certainly should be limited to a pure target gun; such a trigger pull in a defense weapon is asking for trouble.

Jim

 

[Daniel Watters]

Jim: Brownells' Bench Talk newsletter ran a piece by Jack Weigand on performing consistant 2.5 pound trigger jobs. For IPSC and a couple of other speed shooting sports, this isn't out of the ordinary. (In fact, some would consider it a bit heavy!)

 

[bk40]

While not recommended for defensive purposes, ultra light trigger pulls are super nice in the 1911 format. I've had several built for competition with reliable pulls in the 1.5 to 1.75# range. Best to use premimum parts (titanium helps) and count on having a complete trigger job done much more frequently than a standard 4-5# trigger.

A 2# trigger is heavy when you've shot BR rifles with 2 oz Jewell triggers

 

[Hal]

I've found that, within reason, a smooth precise letoff is more of an aid to accuracy than the lightness of the trigger. My Kimber and my Colt Commander have approx the same trigger pull(4lbs) The Colt is far better than the Kimber though because the action has been polished, and is smoother. Every once in a while the Kimber will *surprise* me with a shot. I define *surprise* as a shot that goes off before the sights are fully on the center of the target.

I also have a .380 with a trigger pull of over 10 lbs. Extremly heavy, but it's also very exact in it's letoff, smooth and has zero creep. That cheapo little gun shoots far better than it should after you get used to the heavy trigger.

Are you going to do the trigger work yourself? If you are, you might consider just smoothing things out first and see if that helps.

 

[James K]

Hi, guys,

Yes, I know that a 1911 trigger can be brought down below 2 pounds. I have even seen some folks grind off the half cock notch. I still really don't recommend it and certainly not for a defense gun. Very light BR and set triggers are a whole different mechanism and AFAIK, nothing like that has been appled to the 1911 type. I agree with RAE that smoothness and consistency is more important than light weight by itself.

High Standard once had an electric trigger on a .22. I never saw one, but that must have been something else. (Unlike the Remington electric rifle, it used conventional ammo and a firing pin, with the sear actuated by a solenoid.)

Jim

 

[stdalire]

Thanks for the good advises from all of you, I was not able to visit TFL for almost a week as I am busy transferring my Internet Line to my small shop.

AndABeer, thank you for this "Keep the original parts unaltered in a plastic baggie somewhere safe and if you want to go back, then just put the old parts back in."

Jim, thanks for the good advise also "Two pounds is entirely too light for a 1911 type and below minimum for NRA matches. Not only is it unsafe, but it is so light that having the hammer drop to the half cock notch is entirely possible. And it certainly should be limited to a pure target gun; such a trigger ll in a defense weapon is asking for trouble.

RAE, your advise "smoothing things out first and see if that helps", seems practical to do first rather than jumping into altering the original parts immediately.

Thanks again for your excellent advises,

Sonny

 

[WESHOOT2]

For light trigger(s) recommend hiring the BEST 'smith possible; want a pistol, not a machinegun!



------------------
"All my ammo is factory ammo"

 

[johnwill]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bk40:
While not recommended for defensive purposes, ultra light trigger pulls are super nice in the 1911 format. I've had several built for competition with reliable pulls in the 1.5 to 1.75# range. Best to use premimum parts (titanium helps[/quote]

I'm curious about the titanium comment. Since Taurus and S&W specifically excluded titanium from the sear and hammer for their revolvers due to it's unsuitability for the purpose, why would you want titanium in a 1911 trigger job?