Let the fun began Savage 10t in 6mm cr

[Longshot4]

My first new real shooter in many many years. I bought my self a Christmas gift at Cabela's.
It's 10Lbs. 26" barrel 8 twist and I cant wait to start tuning it for some of those little raggedy holes. It has a one piece 20 MOA picatinny rail. I'm considering changing it out with one I found with a level integrated in the rear. That seams to be a good start. They say it's a 1000 Yd.+ shooter. Although I can't think of many places to shoot it other than farms and power lines in northern Michigan and the UP. 600 Yds. is more realistic to me. As long as its a well placed shot. I'm pretty Shure paper will be its main diet. I hope to pop baby aspirin's at 200 Yds. That's the kind of tuning I hope to get. The receiver is one of those Accu-Stocks. Hmm Well see. The barrel has a nice gapy float to it. But it looks good. I could have doubled the cost and had a fully adjustable stock. but Ill see what I have to work with after I scope it. SCOPE can be a big word when ya look at the prices. I likely will be a few months before I finalize the selection. at this point looks like $500-700 might do it. 4-16 with a old school Mill Dot. A Recital with Clear glass and some thing not too heavy blocking out what I want to see. But heavy enough to see where I am in a dark back ground of trees... Those new set ups have the new school prices $2-3,000+ on them. Well look out coyote's and Maby a nice big buck that feels secure way out there.
If any one has any suggestions I welcome comments.
Feel free to put in your two cents.

 

[Chainsaw.]

I have a 10t in 6.5 and it shoots lights out. I shot a sub 1/4 moa group the first day I had it.

Remove the action screws, clean and locktite em and retorque to factory specs. Made a BUG difference on the few savages that I know.

 

[Longshot4]

Thanks chainsaw

I have never had a rifle that didn't need some kind of stock work. What do you think about a bedding job of any kind? If for nothing else but to stiffen the fore end? By the way chainsaw where did you find the factory specifications?
I'm looking forward to getting the 10t together for the range...
I welcome suggestions.

 

[RC20]

I don't think the big gap floaty is the issue some think it is.

It may even touch the barrel on resonance, but the bullet is gone and its free floated and that is the important aspect.

You wo't shoot baby aspirin at 200 yards unless you are Dale Tubbs. You might hit one from time to time.

Rather than waste money on a bedding, I would get a Boyds Laminate if you feel compelled. Frankly I like the Featherweight Thumb Hole over the others.

I have both the Varmint TH and the FL.

I don't shoot tiny groups regulatory and I have after market barrels. It may be me and the ammo, I think my setups are capable of 1/4 MOA.

I also shoot 30 caliber and that does have its limits as recoil is an aspect though I mostly am immune. Not flinching but I do try to tense up after a days shooting.

Shoot out the Savage barrel and then get a Shilen or Criterion for it. I have Shilen, what I hear Criterion is equal.

My take on the Savage stock is its not worth putting effort into bedding, but with the lighter recoil calibers it does good without bedding.

 

[std7mag]

The base should be from EGW. Solid bases, but kinda tall. Good and solid.
Being so tall, i use low rings with mine. Have that setup on all my Savages, and custom Mauser.

For scope you have some options. There is always Leupold, or something in the Vortex Viper range.
Ooorrrrr.....
I could save you some money and recommend a Sightron. Lots of scope for the price.
I'm an MOA guy, so i opted for the STAC 4-20X50. Love it!

Also....
On a Savage don't just Loctite the action bolts down. You'd be missing one of the best things about a Savage!
After you do your load development, (You are going to reload, right?).
You can adjust the torque on the action screws to tune the action.
The process is described on accurate shooter.

 

[ilmonster]

May want to check with Eurooptic.com. They're selling some previous iterations of the Vortex PST scopes for $600-$800. Super deal on a optic perfect for a 6mm Creedmoor.

 

[Charlie98]

I've got a 10T in .308... it's a fine rifle right out of the box. I found a used Burris scope for it, it's probably more accurate than I'll ever be. I put a Harris bipod in the front sling stud, but otherwise left it alone. The AccuTrigger takes a little getting used to. I don't think I would bed the AccuStock... if it's not shooting to it's potential, get a different stock. You will need to fabricate some sort of cheek riser with the scope, probably one of my only complaints... on a rifle meant to be scoped. Duh.

Watch what rings you use... that coffee can bolt knob gets pretty close to the scope. This is a pic of the old Bushnell I put on when I first got it, I had medium Warne rings on it; the Burris I have now is even closer.

 

[Bfglowkey]

Savage "Pillar beds" their 10T stocks if I recall ( and that's a loose term....) but seriously I would rarely if ever waste my time with a factory stock on any rifle sub 1K. The money/time spent is better placed elsewhere.
6mm Creedmoor is a great caliber to shoot and the loads are very tune friendly and powders will be dictated by the size pill you use. 100 and below stick to RL 16 ( very temp stable magic dust but please keep an eye out for carbon rings) and IMR 4451 is also performing well. Obviously H4350/IMR4350 . If you go heavier than 100 ( with the 8 twister you can more then likely use up to 110s but the sweet spots are the 105s) look into Superformance, RL22/26 or stick to RL16. Long barrel will definitely see the slower powders usefulness while keeping pressures down. Then again 600ish is your realistic limits for your area....RL16 and a mid node will be easy on your barrel and speeds will be more than adequate.
Side note to look at: Savages not so long ago chambered in 6mm Creedmoor had issues with accepting/chambering 108 ELDs from Hornady ( factory loads ) Reported very tight chambers. If you know anyone that can give you a couple rounds of the factory or buy a box to see how they chamber/shoot so you know if you have one of them and get it swapped out by savage. It might be long enough now that its a non issue....just a thought.
SCOPE: SWSA 5x15x50 HD is a excellent option for the price range and reticle your into. If you are flexible and willing to look at other options the Nikon BLACK FX1000 4x16x50 Mil/Mil is in that price range, FFP, nice simple USEABLE reticle for ranging and holdovers, Zero Stop, and other great bells n whistles with very nice and clear glass. I have the 6x24 model on my 6mm and it was a great surprise when I shot with it the first time.

 

[Chainsaw.]

No need in bedding the action, the stocks come with a nice aluminum bed that is good to go.

No need to replace the barrel. Nothing to improve on when they will shoot sub 1/4”. I know of 6 savage rifle thatvwill do this with the ammo thats been tuned for them. Save your money.

 

[bman940]

Bfg is Spot On suggesting Nikon's BLACK FX1000 scope. I bought 2 of the 4-16x50 MOA scopes and couldn't be happier. Excellent glass, turrets have positive clicks and excellent repeatability. I have shot a number of Savage rifles and couldn't be happier with their out of the box accuracy. They have come a long way and I think their reputation and sales prove that.

 

[Longshot4]

Thanks to all of you for your input.
I just finished breaking down the bolt for a deburring and a little removal of some stoning of corners that I thought were on the sharp side. Uther than the bolt 1/4" hex removal no tools were required. I took it down up to the ejector button. Thanks to a video I found on line. Its nothing more than a tricky puzzle. The video made it much easier.
One step at a time. I have plenty of time to work on the rifle this winter. After all its too cold for me now.