Lead fouling - Help!

[ZeusOne]

I just started experimenting with lead bullets, only to discover that these .38 Special loads are leaving deposits in, and on, my stainless 6" GP100 after each 100 rounds.

I'm using 158 Gr LRNs from NBC, these are hardcast and reputedly of good quality. I have tried several loadings of Bullseye, AA#5 and finally a light load of W231 that will shoot into a single hole all day. All sweet, especially the W321 load, and really cheap to shoot, but the mess it makes - black film (from the lube?) and lead deposits that require several passes with a Hoppes (Lewes?) lead remover tool. Now it looks like theres a lead film building up on the top strap. Help!

1) Is leading just one of those penalties, or am I doing something seriously wrong?

2) Does a crimp actually damage a lead bullet as it tries to break free of the case, resulting in some of the leading?

3) Are the above powders too fast?

4) Do I need a different bullet, lube, etc.?

How about you CA guys who shoot nothing but lead, any advice? This is for casual paper punching only, don't need to make a power factor.

 

[Steve Smith]

Where is the lead most concentrated?

BTW, lube build-up at the end of a barrel is normally a good sign that you're not running out of lube.

 

[stans]

If you want to shoot lead bullets, you will have to accept a certain amount of dirt. The lube tends to be sticky and attracts powder fouling. I usually wipe my revolvers with a soft towel after 12 to 18 rounds. The barrel may be leading due to a rough internal surface or slightly undersized bullets. Some leading, usually at the breech end is considered normal. A reasonable crimp will not hurt a hard cast bullet. I usually roll crimp so that the case mouth diameter is -0.004" smaller than the diameter measured just below the mouth. I have also had good luck with W-231.

 

[Bill Adair]

ZeusOne,

Try the hardest cast lead bullets on the market (24 BHN), from Oregon Trail.

They totally eliminated the leading problems I had with my firearms, and I've used them exclusively ever since.

The have the best customer service I've ever dealt with, and will even send you free samples on request. They know that you will buy their Laser Cast bullets, if you try them.

To date, I've used many thousands of their bullets in four different calibers, and have yet to find a single bullet that wasn't cast perfectly!

The prices on their web site include shipping, so there are no hidden charges. Their web site is at:

http://www.laser-cast.com/

Let me know how you like them!

Bill

 

[jjmorgan64]

check your cylinder throats

my vaquero has too small of throats, this tends to throw lead onto the topstrap, and lead up the forcong cone after a relatively few shots (25-75ish), i cast em with the same lead as i use in my 30 carbine blackhawk which throws em about 1500 fps with very minimal lead (I have the tool in the mail from brownells to open up the cylinder throats)

Hardness isn't everything, or so i've been told

p.s. if anyone needs to borrow that cylinder throat tool when i'm done if you pay the shipping i'll let you use it, just don't screw it up. (but my emails not working right now, so try it next week, I won't get to open my throats up til this weekend anyway)

 

[C.R.Sam]

Proper lube more important than hardness.

jjmorgan64 also has a good point. Tight chamber mouths will cause leading.

Sam

 

[WESHOOT2]

IS THE ACCURACY DETERIORATING?

Is the leading detrimental to accuracy?

If not, ignore.

If it is, switch bullet brand.

(Clean your barrel squeaky clean, then run a sopping-wet patch covered with TetraLube through it. ---Let dry.--- Before firing, run a DRY patch through.)

Many folks don't (ever) clean a 'lead-bullet' barrel unless/until accuracy degrades.

Your results may vary.

 

[ZeusOne]

Thanks

Thanks to all for your replies. Looks like I'm not alone with this leading problem. To answer your questions:

1) Most of the leading is observed in the first inch or two of the throat.
2) No lube buildup at the muzzle end.
3) Not impacting accuracy.
4) I will order a sample of Oregon Trail bullets.

I guess the amount of lube and lead fouling is initially shocking - especially to someone who is kinda anal about having a clean gun. But despite the fact that cleaning after lead has been a chore, the overall economy can't be beat. I'm hoping that over time I will find the proper balance of cost, shooting characteristics and an acceptable level of maintenance. Thanks for all your inputs.

 

[WESHOOT2]

3) "NOT IMPACTING ACCURACY"

Wil Schuemann has a superb article on barrel-cleaning, look here: www.schuemann.com

Anal gun-cleaning is more detrimental than shooting............and lead bullets just don't wear out barrels (until you're in the millions LOL).

Scouring a barrel with abrasive chrome polish can/may/will affect accuracy.

"Slug" (push a soft lead ball through a well-lubed bore) your barrel, measure, and purchase lead bullets of the exact size or .001" bigger (trial and error required for best accuracy).

My 45ACP shoots .452" extremely well, but when I use .451" bullets, it gets awesome (Bar-Sto).
My 9x19 Nowlin-barreled Witness loves .355" non-lead, but handles lead from .355-.357".

And the throats OY!

So many variables, so little time................

 

[Steve Smith]

Sounds like your throats are too small. That's a typical complaint with Rugers. I don't believe that you need 24 BHN bullets to eliminate your problem. That can be fixed by having the chambers throated. Push a dead soft bullet through the barrel. Does it get harder at the frame (where the barrel screws in)? That's another typical Ruger issue. That can be fixed by having the barrel throated.