Just Starting

[JP Sarte]

If I am new to reloading and spend about $600.00 on a setup, how long will it typically take to recoup my initial investment and start getting "ahead"?

1. I shoot a .270 Winchester.
2. I just started saving brass. I have about 500 empty shells.
3. I shoot about 100 shells a month.

JP

 

[T. O'Heir]

You're already ahead. Once you have the load worked up, you'll forget about cost. Reloading is about using the best possible ammo in your rifle, not saving money. Reloading also means you will shoot more, usually, for less.
In any case, take the average price for a box of ammo you used to buy, divide that into the $600. That'll tell you how many boxes $600 would buy. Then, if you really want to, figure out how much a box costs you to reload. (7,000 grains to a pound.)
Midway(not the least expensive place, but it'll give you an idea. Have their site bookmarked for just such a question.) wants $17.99 plus shipping$$$(buy components locally, no shipping.) per 20 for Remington 130 grain Core-lokt's. About 90 cents a shot without the shipping. $600 will buy 33 boxes without the shipping.
You have the brass. (get 'em all trimmed, chamfered/deburred, sized and primed and store 'em in a coffee can or a plastic bin with a lid.)
100 of those bullets runs $17.29. About 17 cents each.
$27.99 for 1,000 primers. About 3 cents each
$20.99 for a pound of IMR4064. 43.5 grains is the accuracy load given in my Lyman manual for a 130 grain bullet. A pound will yield 160 rounds. About 13 cents for the powder.
That's about 33 cents per shot or $6.60 per 20. $33 for your 100 rounds vs $17.99 per 20. Roughly 18 months at 100 rounds per month. Mind you, my arithmetic isn't that great.

 

[JP Sarte]

T. O'Heir:

Thanks for the information. There seems to be a lot of different books on reloading out there which one is generally considered the best?

 

[tom234]

http://10xshooters.com/calculators/Rifle_Reloading_Cost_Calculator.htm

 

[Sidetracked]

In my opinion, your first book should be the Hogdon Manual. They include the most useable data, covering the widest bullet selection. A yearly update is available in a magazine-type book for about $6.
There is also the online data center at http://www.hogdon.com

It's best not to invest in a single reloading book. You need the largest amount of data you can get your hands on.

I NEVER reload using a single source of data.

I cross-reference three to four books, and some times even make phone calls to family members with other manuals.

My personal preferences are:
Hornady
Speer
Sierra
Hodgon

Secondary sources: (I prefer others, or limited use only)
Lyman
Nosler
Barnes

There are many more sources out there, but I believe the Hogdon book is your best investment.



As for powders, you'll see both IMR and Hogdon 4895/4831/4064 and other powders listed for both companies. IMR powders will usually be listed as "IMR4895", or simply "4895" under a heading stating "IMR". Hogdon powders are usually shown as "H4895". Although derived from the same original formula for the US military, they ARE NOT interchangeable. Watch out to make sure you are using the proper powder, if you chose to use of these.

 

[JP Sarte]

I planned on spending around $600.00 on a setup. What can I expect to get for that kind of money. Should I be spending more? Less? I don't think I need the most expensive euqipment out there but I don't wan't to buy junk either.

Also, will I be able to reload rifle and pistol ammunition with the same setup as long as I use the appropriate dies?

Do I need an FFL to receive powder?

Too many questions I guess.

JP

 

[OldShooter]

Starting up

I have just started and spent about $400 on a Lyman kit and a few extra items. I got a 6 station turret with a lot of accessories and I bought a tumbler and dies for .45ACP and 9mm. You could spend less and you could spend more.

I think most presses can do rifle and pistol rounds, just buy the dies for it.

You don't need an FFL for powder and primers but you will get hit with a pretty big fee for shipping hazardous products. So far I have only bought at a local gun shop and was spared the shipping fees.

 

[Sidetracked]

In most states, powder can be purchased almost anywhere reloading supplies are sold. There are exceptions like the crap-hole I am temporarilly living in. This city (western NY), and 8 cities around it, don't allow the sale or possession of smokeless gun powder. Five of those cities also include primers. --Yet, they still allow the more volatile 'strike anywhere' matches to be sold.-- Gun haters.


For $600, you can get one of the lower end aluminum starter kits, and quite a bit more.
Or, you could pick up a forged/cast iron press for a little more money, and never worry about it again unless you want to upgrade to a progressive press.

Since you are planning only to reload a single caliber right now, a single stage press is probably best.


As for specific press recommendations...
It really comes down to what you think you'll need and want.
Reading as much as possible about the different presses, and reviews from owners should help you decide. Look for the reasons people do, or do not like a particular product.

I like the Redding and RCBS single stage presses for their strength, design, and longevity.

In my opinion, the RCBS Master Reloading Kit is also the best value for your money. The key point for me, is the higher quality powder measure, and scale you get.


My thoughts on a few of the accessories I have used, that come in common kits, but I feel should be replaced:

RCBS Master Reloading Kit -
Priming tool - I hate it. The tolerances make it feel cheap and poorly engineered, the primer tray cover barelly stays on the tray, and I don't like the way the tray is just jammed into the main assembly to hold it in place. I use it, but will eventually get my own Lee Auto Prime.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Kit -
Powder scale - I have used 3 of these scales. None of them held their zero between charges with low weights. (3 to 20 grains) When using check weights to verify, they could be off as much as 10% - after just giving a reading that was right on.

Lee Challenger Kits (several varations) -
"Perfect" Powder measure - To begin with, it is plastic. I don't like plastic. Ball powders tend to find all possible leaks, and exploit them to their fullest. Flake powders work their way into the cracks and require a thorough cleaning afterward. Lastly, it was such an irritation to throw a charge, we gave ours to the kids to use as a crayon holder.

 

[shepherddogs]

A lot of people say you won't save money reloading but I've saved tons of money over the years. Plus you get the best ammo for your rifle by experimenting with powder charges and seating depths.

 

[73-Captain]

Don't beleive the internet BS that "Reloading is about using the best possible ammo in your rifle, not saving money."

Reloading is about what YOU WANT IT TO BE. It can be a hobby if you need something to do or just want to waste time, you can save a tremendous amount of money or you can produce the best ammo available.

Unless you buy every worthless gadget or start out with equipment that is unsuitable for YOUR use and have to keep updating equipment you WILL SAVE MONEY and at the same time produce the best ammo. Ammo that is tailored to YOUR rifle.

C.

 

[JP Sarte]

73 Captain:

Thanks for all the e-mails.

JP