Just shot my first ever reloads

[LloydXmas250]

I shot off my first reloads. They were 115 gr FMJ 9mm over 4.9 gr & 5.3 gr WSF on Winchester primers. I was so nervous on the first shot I completely missed the target which is hilarious. After nerves settled, and I realized my gun wasn't going to blow up, the accuracy on both rounds is the exact same as what I do with factory rounds.

Now the only thing I didn't like was the snappiness of this powder. Both the 4.9 and the 5.3 loads had a sharp snap and the WSF seemed to get the brass pretty black. I don't mind the snap that much (I guess I'd rather not have it but it's not a huge deal) but my wife wouldn't put up with it. Can someone recommend a powder that I can get good velocity out of but without the snap of the WSF? Thanks.

 

[t45]

I would say that we all did that during our 1st time. I know I did. Welcome to reloading it will be an enjoyable journey.

 

[Lost Sheep]

How snappy?

Welcome to reloading, and thanks for asking our advice. (I will be interested in learning the answer, myself).

Was the recoil "snappier" than factory ammunition? By how much?

It might not be the powder. If the bullets are seated deeper or crimped tighter, you might be getting extra pressure (and therefore delivering extra velocity, which usually leads to more recoil).

I am just guessing here, so don't be alarmed. Share with us the brand of brass you are using (internal volume can vary), primers, specific bullet. They all matter somewhat. Usually not a big deal.

I loaded for 30 years without one, but a chronograph might help diagnose your reloads' performance.

You are relatively new at reloading, but you are WAY ahead of where I was for decades if you are thinking about altering performance by choosing powders. When I started, I was happy as a clam if things just went "bang" at the right times. More power to you.

Lost Sheep

 

[LloydXmas250]

Welcome to reloading, and thanks for asking our advice. (I will be interested in learning the answer, myself).

Was the recoil "snappier" than factory ammunition? By how much?

It might not be the powder. If the bullets are seated deeper or crimped tighter, you might be getting extra pressure (and therefore delivering extra velocity, which usually leads to more recoil).

I am just guessing here, so don't be alarmed. Share with us the brand of brass you are using (internal volume can vary), primers, specific bullet. They all matter somewhat. Usually not a big deal.

I loaded for 30 years without one, but a chronograph might help diagnose your reloads' performance.

You are relatively new at reloading, but you are WAY ahead of where I was for decades if you are thinking about altering performance by choosing powders. When I started, I was happy as a clam if things just went "bang" at the right times. More power to you.

Lost Sheep

Yeah I need to get a chrono but I'm brand new so that a bit down the list.

The rounds were much snappier than factory loads. As for depth, I had nearly every round seated to a COAL of 1.160, pretty close to the maximum.

The recoil felt like I was shooting a Glock but I have a PX4 with a rotating barrel so I've never had that kind of snap on my gun before. Not bad but nothing my wife will put up with.

Thanks for the encouraging words.

 

[Lost Sheep]

OAL can vary 1.160 vs 1.169

First, let me address your original question:

I am told that as you approach maximum performance, slower powders give less recoil (but be careful of reduced loads with slow powders, they get unpredictable and can blow guns up, as they require a high pressure to get even burn rates. Low pressure burning sometimes produces unpredictable pressure spikes.)

You could increase the length and see what happens. My manual I keep near the computer (Modern Reloading by Richard Lee) lists COAL as 1.169".

I believe anything that feeds through your magazine, up the feed ramp and through your action without getting set back and does not jam the bullet into the rifling when chambered should be OK no matter what the manual says. The important test being that the loaded bullets NEVER get set back when cycled through the action.

I said "I believe" because that's my theory. I do not ever intend to test it unless I have a ballistics lab behind me. I don't go outside the recipes. But, depending on what manual you have, the recipes vary just a little bit.

Hollowpoint bullets will have a longer length (of just the slug) than round nose, thereby reducing the volume in the "combustion chamber" if the OAL is the same. Hollow base bullets, though longer, also have the additional volume in the hollow base, so may or may not change the volume available for combustion.

Pay attention to the condition of your primers (do a search on the phrase "Pressure Signs"), as they (and other signs) are indications if you have too high a pressure in your reloads.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep

P.S.

Remember, verify for yourself everything you learn from casual sources. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers).

This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work a lot with numbers and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because they are close to each other on the keypad.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Thanks for the advice. I definitely take everything with a grain of salt. Thanks for the help and I'll definitely be checking primers and double checking my loads.

 

[chris in va]

I don't see why you couldn't lower that powder charge a bit. Try 4.5gr, making sure it still cycles your action. I've found using the online powder manufacturer tables can put you in the rather 'warm' category.

My Lyman manual doesn't even list WSF until 147gr, and even then it starts out at 3.5gr.

Personally I really like Universal after trying Unique, 231 and Bullseye. Very easy to work with, doesn't get everywhere like the other powders. Has the consistency of sand.

 

[TXGunNut]

Welcome to the asylum, Lloyd. When I was loading 9mm I used Unique, today it would be Universal. Worth a try.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Thanks for the advice. I'm think on trying 231 as well. I'll definitely also pick up some Universal. As for the WSF, I'm definitely going to try an even smaller load than Hodgdon's starting load just to try it.

 

[medalguy]

231 will work but try AA #5. It's the best for 9mm I think. Measures great and is accurate too.

Welcome!!

 

[CrustyFN]

Congrats on your first reloads. I don't know anybody that wasn't nervous shooting their first. I am no expert by any means. I have heard that faster powder will give you less felt recoil, also a heavier bullet. I used to shoot a lot of Titegroup which is a fast powder with 124 grain bullets and they had a lot less recoil than factory ammo. Now I use WST, same results but seems more accurate and cleaner.

 

[WanMan99]

I use 5.0gr of Bullseye for my 9mm 115gr RN target ammo and couldn't be happier with the performance. I did increase the crimp slightly and there is a more pronounced "snap" to them.
My first shot with a reload I didn't even aim the gun, just pointed it towards the berm....

 

[CherokeeT]

Congratulations on your achievement !! It's great to shoot ammo you put together. I use a lot of 231 in 9mm but WST, AA5 also work good.

 

[LloydXmas250]

What manuals have load data for WST? I'm going to pick some WST and some 231 up. I have a Lee manual and it's good for the WSF I have and the 231 but there's no WST. Also don't see any loads on Hodgdon's reload data site.

 

[sonnycrockett]

For 9MM I reload with Alliant Unique or Hogdens Universal and thats about it
I can try others but I can hit bulleyes with these 2 powders..
I alway load min loads or as close as I can to it for target shooting and both are
U can get 20 questions and 20 answers on a subject such as powder
but low recoil is more fun to shoot IMO,your wrist will thank you

GET SOME !

 

[Jim243]

WST is NOT for 9mm, that's why there is no load data.

Your best bet in my opinion is Win 231 powder or Alliant "Power Pistol" I beleive (and may be wrong) that WST is a slower burning powder.

Let me start off saying that a lot of people use shotgun powder for their handguns. Many for decades, but it is my own opinion that if you want to play with shotgun powder you should get a shotgun, not a pistol.

Don't everyone jump on me it is just MY opinion. Win 231 is a midrange powder and should keep you safe from .380 through 45 ACP and you will find tons of reloading data on that powder.

Jim

 

[CrustyFN]

What manuals have load data for WST? I'm going to pick some WST and some 231 up. I have a Lee manual and it's good for the WSF I have and the 231 but there's no WST. Also don't see any loads on Hodgdon's reload data site.

You are correct. I got a starting point from a few very knowledgeable and respected friends that I trust and worked up from there. Sorry I forgot there was no data for 9mm.

WST is NOT for 9mm, that's why there is no load data.

While there is no data for 9mm it is still an excellent powder for 9mm. Just as nice as it is in 45 auto. I would like to see them come out with some data for 9mm and 38 spcl.

 

[k4swb]

WST

Hornady's fourth edition reloading manual lists WST data for both 9mm and .45ACP. Been using both for quite awhile in both of those rounds and .44mag. I had to figure out the .44 load by trial and error. WST is a very clean burning powder in my loads. In my .45ACP load the brass doesn'r even need cleaning and the gun looks almost the same after 200 rounds as it did before i started. I used WSL before it was discontinued and also liked it a lot.