It's the blue one, right?

[Cowled_Wolfe]

I'm gonna re-assemble my 10/22 tomorrow, and I plan on loctiting the scope mount screws to keep it from rattling loose after a brick... My dad said I wanna use blue if I'll ever take it off again, and I trust him, but I forgot to ask if it'll have any problems with the aluminum reciever (say, melting the top of my reciever into a really yummy looking goop)... Am I safe?

Cheers and thanks in advance,
Wolfe.

 

[mtnboomer]

Yes, blue is the removeable type. Read the instructions carefully to make sure it is compatible with aluminium. It shouldn't hurt the metal but it could cause the parts to seize together if the formulation doesn't like non-ferrous metals. With all the different brands out there caution is alway advisable.

 

[Harry Bonar]

10-22

Dear Shooter:
On the 10-22 what I do sometimes is to ream those four reciever holes with a 29 drill and re-tap for 8-40! Of course then you must cut the holes and counterbore them for the 8-40 screws.
There is a trick to not having mounting screws not back out. As you have the mounting screws turned down tight (not tight enough to strip) take a screwdriver insert and put it in the slots and hit the insert smartly with a small ball-peen. You will fit the heads to the basde perfectly and then you will be able to tighten the screws at least 1/8th turn more. Do not hit very hard!
Harry B.

 

[cntryboy1289]

listen to Harry

Harry gives out good info as well as does MntBoomer. The only thing I have to follow either with is that no matter what you do, do the work without the bolt in place and then clean up any of the locktite that makes it's way into the receiver and or check to see if the screws enter the receiver. Either will bind up the bolt and mess things up for you. Good luck with it.

My biggest issue with the 10/22 is the cheap bases most folks use. If you have one that is smooth and doesn't have a recess milled into it for the screw to lock into it, I would get yourself one before you do anything else. The scope will batter itself all the way down the base if it doesn't have the recess to catch the screw in. I have used bedding material on a couple through the years when a customer just didn't want to change the base out. I used some Devcon steel putty and put enough in the groove where the rings fit into to block it from moving, but not be so noticeable.

 

[Cowled_Wolfe]

Double post... Evil.

 

[Cowled_Wolfe]

Thanks for all the advice...

The bottle didn't say anything about metal... It just says skin isn't the best thing to use it on.

I'm a bit hesitant to try the ball peen, but I might try the re-drill/tap if the loctite fails me. Good point on not stripping out (aluminum scares me that way).

Definately gonna take the bolt out first... For some reason, I think gluing your bolt in place is detrimental to the overall functionality of a firearm.

Btw... I use only the finest in el-cheapo parts... The base fits like a glove before it rattles loose.

Thanks again,
Wolfe.