Is there any danger to putting a model 19 cylinder ina model 10 frame?

Gonzo_308

New member
It doesn't seem like a good idea to me and I told the person asking so.

Their reply was "What's wrong with it? the model 19 is a k frame just like the model 10.

So, tell me?
 

BillCA

New member
Yes, there is... And you should never do it.

1. It may not fit, depending on the particular Model 10. The .38 special barrels are often set back further into the frame opening because the .38 cylinder is slightly shorter than the .357 cylinder. The longer .357 cylinder will probably bang into the .38 barrel's forcing cone.

2. You create a dangerous condition by putting a cylinder capable of chambering .357 Magnum loads (@36,000 psi) in a gun designed for no more than about 20,000 psi. If it's a pencil barreled M10, accidentally chambering a .357 Magnum round could cause a KaBoom - or simply split the barrel.

3. Timing would have to be redone from scratch. If the .357 cylinder comes iwth it's own star extractor, you'll have to re-time the gun on each chamber.
 

Majic

New member
The barrel would most likely hold up, but you probably would find that the frame would stretch. You would have to shorten and recut the forcing cone because the Magnum cylinder is longer than the Special cylinder.
It is advised against making this conversion because the revolver just won't hold up very long using the higher pressure cartridge.
 

Brian Williams

New member
If it's a pencil barreled M10, accidentally chambering a .357 Magnum round could cause a KaBoom - or simply split the barrel.
The problem would be the strength of the frame not the barrel, also the cylinder would more than likely hit the end of the barrel in a mod 10. Like was said in a previous post the barrels on Mod 10s were set in deeper.

It will not split the barrel, A tapered 38 spec barrel, AKA Pencil barrel, will hold up for shooting 357s, I know 1st hand.


the question is why?
To have a pencil barrel 357. I know of only 1.
 

Dfariswheel

New member
This is a MAJOR No-No.

Occasionally, .38 Special guns show up at manufactures that have been converted to fire .357 Magnum ammo.
Alarm bells sound, sirens blare, and red lights start to flash.

Magnum guns are heat treated to a much higher level than .38 Special guns.
Many people think that gun companies are "ripping them off" or just charging more money for Magnum-marked guns.

They seem to believe that a gun company like S&W uses the same frames and cylinders on both calibers, and just stamps one as a Special and another as a Magnum.
"After all", the line goes, "There's NO difference between a Model 64 Special and a 65 Magnum".

Putting a Magnum cylinder in a Special frame will result in a quickly ruined frame, and VERY probably a "KA-BOOM".

A Magnum converted Special revolver is a live hand grenade. The only difference is, the revolver often doesn't blow.......right away.

Bottom line: Doing a conversion like this is one of those ideas that SOUND good, but are in fact, virtually suicidal.
If anyone else is standing nearby when it does blow, it becomes literally criminal.

I personally know of a case in the Mid-West some years ago in which a man converted a Colt Old Model .38 Special Trooper to Magnum.
The Old Model Trooper is a stronger gun than the "K" frame S&W.

When it blew, he mangled his right hand (he WAS a watchmaker up to that moment), the shooter next to him lost an eye.

The converter had to find a new line of work, got sued for everything he ever had, AND had criminal negligence charges filed against him, since the county prosecutor was on the line and saw the incident.
 
According to S&W historian Roy Jinks there is no difference in frames, only the tempering of the cylinders. The barrels are not treated differently, either. A number of early .357 Magnum revolvers were built using left over .38 Special barrels. The Model 10 frame would stretch no more than would that of a Model 13 or Model 19 nor would they go "ka-boom" (am I the only one who finds that term silly?) as they are the same in terms of strength. Barrel/Cylinder gap would have to be corrected as the .38 cylinder is shorter so the shank of the barrel protrudes into the frame farther. Timing may be off although I have found S&Ws to be good about parts swapping and you might get lucky.

It could be done but why? It would faster, cheaper, easier to simply buy a Model 13 if you need Magnum power.
 

Gonzo_308

New member
There are many more 3" 38 specials than there are .357's He wants a quick and easy 3" .357.

There are parts for sale on GunBroker all the time. $100.00 for parts from a destroyed model 19/66 and an old police trade in .38=custom gun.

Easier for me to buy and be happy but some people gotta be able to say "Look what I did" :confused:
 

Archie

New member
More effort than needed...

No, converted guns do not blow up. I've seen too many in good working condition to get worked up over it.

No, S&W will not admit it. They don't want the liability of some knucklehead 'rechambering' his cylinder with a 'pretty close' twist drill, blowing himself up, and then claiming S&W said he could. In the current lawsuit happy nation we live, I doubt many private gunsmiths would perform such a conversion, either.

As a practical matter, rechambering a .38 Special cylinder is safe enough, but the cylinder is a bit shorter than a standard .357 cylinder; some factory loads will not fit. One can adjust one's handloads accordingly.

All that aside, unless one already has the revolver and parts in hand, it's probably simpler to rebarrel an M13 than it is to fit a cylinder to an M10. All that requires is shortening and fitting the barrel.

As Mr. Williams said, a pencil barreled, K frame .357 Magnum is a nice bit of machinery. They shoot fast and handle quickly.
 
Well, if you have a Model 10 and buy a Model 13 barrel and cylinder they will swap and you'll have a Model 13 stamped Model 10. The 13 started out as a 10 with a Magnum cylinder (10-6?) and after the 1st run they made it a separate model.

But like I said, you're not saving anything. M&P + $100 in ebay parts + gunsmithing costs = one God-awful expensive Model 13 stamped M10.
 
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