Is EAA Windicator a good revolver?

Kurbsky

New member
I am thinking about buying a CC revolver that would be good and inexpensive. Is EAA Windicator 4" a good option? For revolvers I would only consider one caliber - 357 mag.
 

Centurion

New member
I would go for a Taurus or an Alpha, since Arminius/Weihrauch revolvers are crap. Bad alloys, and not very durable. Maybe a used S&W could be the best option...
 

natman

New member
Is EAA Windicator a good revolver?

No.

The Windicator is a bottom of the barrel, "let's see how cheaply we can make a revolver" gun.

You'd be far better off buying a good used S&W or Ruger.
 

Kurbsky

New member
I already have 3 good quality more expensive revolvers and want something more modest, inexpensive but still functional and reliable - meaning it will not jam or stop working properly. One word I have seen in the comments was "alloy". Does it mean that this revolver is not all steel?
 

tdrizzle

New member
Smith, Colt, Ruger, older Charter (Like 70s). Maybe a .38 snub Taurus, which is one of the only things they do well. Buy a used one from the first three for about $300 ish.

Avoid nearly every other brand, in my opinion.
 

BornFighting88

New member
I just read an article on these EAA wheel guns in Gun Tests. They rated it well, for reasons stated above. Good lockup, feels ok. Shoots straight. I did NOT realize, nor did I read, however, that they used cheap alloys to get the price down. Makes more sense now. A German revolver, and not a mortgage payment to get one???? I THOUGHT something didn’t add up!!

May have posted this in another thread or forum, but am looking to get my little lady a 327 Fed revolver, and Ruger and Smith seem to be where I am looking. Even if used in good condition. I want her trained with it, and only use it if needed. So I won’t be putting a ton through it.
 

Drm50

New member
This reminds me of customer I had back in 80s. He was in the shop a couple times a week.
He was building custom fishing rods. He shot a few squirrel & rabbits but had not big interest in guns. Anyway he retired and was going on dream fishing trip to Alaska with a buddy. One day he comes in with a Fly Rod he just finished for himself. He proceeds to tell me how much the blank cost, the virgin cork , guides, ect. It was crazy the money in the rod, then he is telling me how much the reel and lines cost. I don’t remember exactly but $1k in rod. Then he says he wants a pistol for bear protection. I laid out a S&W 44mg and a 357. Being small dealer in Ohio, not much call for Bear Guns. Didn’t matter, guy went crazy when he saw prices. Didn’t want to put that much in something he may never use.
If you are worried about you life being threatened, why would you buy out of the bottom of the barrel? When I was in business I wouldn’t sell junk guns. The biggest reason was the aggravation dealing with customers bringing them back broke.
 

smee78

New member
I have a buddy with one, and his shoots fine, no complaints by him. I haven't shot it myself, so I can only pass on what he has told me. I would try to keep an eye out for a nice used S&W or Ruger with a shorter barrel if it were me. I think the refinement and quality are worth the few extra dollars. A 4" K frame steel revolver is a little large for CC to me, plus you will need a good holster and belt if you don't already have one.


Drm50, I know what you mean about some customers:confused: All you can do is just shake your head and laugh.
 

wild cat mccane

New member
Normal pricing is $320 for the 4" nickle--the most expensive/desired Windicator.

The 357 version have a steel frame. You'll notice the weight difference between the a 38 and 357 version in the same barrel length. The Windicator started out as 38 alloy ONLY. The steel only came when they moved to 357.

Different grips are almost non existent here. You can find them through the German website, but pretty much non here.

In you research, look up "windicator cylinder binding." The gap in the Windicator is very susceptible to crap build up and heating up causing the cylinder to get stuck at the forcing cone.


Previously, the Windicator was cut very rough at the crown on the snub versions. Like just sawed off, no finishing. Look at your crown when you pick it up.


I personally think a Taurus is going to be longer lasting gun.
 
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lee n. field

New member
I already have 3 good quality more expensive revolvers and want something more modest, inexpensive but still functional and reliable

A difficult point to meet. Thus the perennial "what gun for $X" question on gun boards.

Folks say "revolvers are simple", but there's actually a lot going on that all has to work. See C&rsenal's Revolver 101 video for some insight on that. (And a lot of funky old 19th century iron.)

- meaning it will not jam or stop working properly. One word I have seen in the comments was "alloy". Does it mean that this revolver is not all steel?


Zamak in the .38s, is my understanding.

I personally think a Taurus is going to be longer lasting gun

That. A steel Model 85 or 605. Check it over well first. See Jim March's revolver checkout document.
 
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Prof Young

New member
Multiple problems with mine . . . .

I had the Windicator. Cylinder would lock up. Got that fixed then the cylinder would free wheel. Got that fixed and sold it.

Prof Young
 

Kurbsky

New member
Thanks for your valuable opinions and advice! It looks like here too you get what you pay for. The lowest quality I would accept is Ruger level. It looks like EAA is lower quality than Ruger. That means this revolver is not for me.
 

BornFighting88

New member
I agree, my lowest acceptable level of quality is Ruger. Prefer SW.

Looks like the consensus of these EAA’s just aren’t the thing they seem to be.
 
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