Ideal temperature for gunsafe?

[Harry Callahan]

Guys/gals,
I was wondering what temperature I should try to keep my safe at? Here in the Chicagoland area we get wild temperature extremes seasonally. I already have the "Goldenrod" and a box of dessicant(AmSec BF6030, 24 gun safe). So far, so good. It has been in the 20s and 30s here lately. It seems the safe interior temperature is in the 40s/50s(it's in my garage)and humidity hasn't been a problem so far. Should it be warmer in there or am I OK?

 

[4V50 Gary]

I use to know that (really, I read hydrothermographs). However, you can call your local museum (if they're AAM certified) and ask them what theirs are reading (or if you go into an art gallery, they may have one). Be sure the museum or gallery you call have objects that include wood & metal & leather.

 

[Jim Watson]

You want to warm it just a little to bring down the relative humidity and prevent rust. But not so warm (and dry) as to shrink the wood. Don't overheat.

 

[EastSideRich]

addendum to original question

what is the ideal humidity, and what is a good way to keep it at that point without getting too dry?

 

[obxned]

98.6 degrees - happiness is a warm gun.

 

[SOSARMS]

Don't know if right or wrong, but i keep my temp at 70 degrees 40% year round. Have not had a bit of problems....FWIW

 

[Buzzcook]

Ideally vacuum out the the air and replace it with pure nitrogen.

Temperature isn't as important as sudden changes in temperature. Also the difference in temperature between the safe and the ambient temperature.

 

[Warhorse]

The problem is not the temperature, it's the humidity. If the metal is cold and the ambient temperature warms up rapidly, moisture in the air can condense on the metal causing rust.

In a gun safe, the simple solution is to put a moisture absorbing medium, of which there are numerous different kinds, into the safe. Refresh it periodically and you will have no problems. Even if the temperature around the safe changes, it will change only slowly in the safe interior and the low humidy inside will prevent any condensation.

In simple terms, reduce the humidity in the safe and don't worry about it.

 

[animal]

Ridiculous hypothetical: Flush and fill with helium, argon or any other inert gas would be better than nitrogen. Nitrogen is still slightly reactive. Pulling a vacuum on the safe and filling with nitrogen would cause the moisture to "boil" out of the wood and any left would be soaked up by the nitrogen. That is the method used to completely remove moisture from an A/C or refrigeration system.


If you can keep the interior of the safe at a few degrees above room temp. and keep the dessicant pack active you should be fine. What you have now is fine.

 

[brickeyee]

Filling the safe with ANY pure gas would result in water vapor leaving the wood.
As long as the concentration of water vapor in the safe is lower than the level in the wood it will move out of the wood until equilibrium is achieved.

The goldenrod is intended to keep the contents of the safe just barely above ambient temperature so condensation does not occur.
Since the safe is reasonably well sealed the temperature and humidity inside should change slowly enough for the small heat output to keep things warm.

 

[Alleykat]

The interior's temperature is largely irrelevant. It's the relative humidity that the Goldenrod's controlling. It works well.

 

[Harry Callahan]

Thanks, everyone.

 

[brickeyee]

"The interior's temperature is largely irrelevant. It's the relative humidity that the Goldenrod's controlling. It works well."

The goldenrod is just a heater.
It is controlling the relaitve humidity by making the interior of the safe warmer.

 

[Alleykat]

The goldenrod is just a heater.
It is controlling the relaitve humidity by making the interior of the safe warmer.

At twenty-five watts, it's not much of a heater. It just makes sure that the safe's interior is slightly warmer than surrounding air. If it's -40* outside the safe, I'll probably be -39.5* inside the safe.