I bought a j-frame snubby .38...

H

Hand_Rifle_Guy

New member
It's a pre agreement Model 36 (I think, blue, hammer, short barrel) that a guy bought new as part of a set with a 19, that he stuck in his safe and NEVER fired. That's right, NIB!:D (but no box)

Not a scratch on it, came with a slick little Bianchi thumb-break holster (also new). It's wonderful.

So now I got a snubby. (my first!) I'd love to carry it, but I worry about rust.

I'm torn: keep it new as a collector? Send it out for a trigger job and hard chrome? Decisions, decisions...

Ok, I ripped it. I wanna shoot it. That's why I bought it. It's really small, so it will go anyplace. So a raft of questions for all you snubby experts.

Boot grips or T-grip?

Hard chrome, NP3, electroless nickel, black nickel, Black-T, Roguard? (That's all I could think of, feel free to suggest others. I would like to keep it black, if possible.)

Who can do a good trigger job? Without it taking a year? (I suppose I could do it myself, I'm pretty good with a honing stone. Got the Kuhnhausen books, so I won't screw it up. Done rifles before with good results.)

110 JHP's, 125 LHP +P's, 158 LSWCHP +P's, Federal Nyclads?

So what would you do? Hopping from foot to foot in antici.......................pation.

Whoops. Not anticipation. Gotta water the porcelain. Sorry!;)

Smiles all around, Happy New Year!
 
N

notbubba

New member
Congratulation.:D

I have a Lady Smith.
Federal HYDRA-SHOK 110 grain shoots the best for me.

If you ain't fired it yet, so why are you getting a trigger job?

Wipe the gun off regularly and rust shouldn't be a big problem.

SHOOT THE DANG THING!:p
 
H

Hand_Rifle_Guy

New member
I DID shoot it. With 125 grn standard pressure FMJ's of all things. It doesn't NEED a trigger job, it's just that I've read so many stories about "magic" trigger pulls and Smiths.

It's not as good as my "sleeper" Taurus 82 that I got for $99.

BTW, it grouped 3 1/2 inches offhand at about 25 feet. shot about 6 inches low though, hence the ammo questions.

Rusted my Colt 1903 carrying it around in my pocket last summer. Pissed me off no end, as that gun has the original finish from 1919 on it, the mystical old Colt bluing. Hence the finish question.

It's supposed to be an "always" gun. I want no doubts about it, and it's going to live in a pocket holster.

There's lots of snubby threads, but i thought I'd give folks a chance to do my thinking for me, in the best traditions of the PRK.

;) :D ;)

Edit: Say, if you're Notbubba, may I call you Bill? (joke. Hey, it's a JOKE! Put that down, ok? I'm sorry! Jeez...)
 
M

mec

New member
That mod 36 blue finish is pretty isn't it?

it will stay that way if you will get one of the Uncle mikes synthetic holsters- either a pocket model or an inside the waste pouch used like it's designed or as a pocket liner. If the blue does get scratched, it can be touched up with cold blue. The fancy finishes are much harded to repair.

The J will tend to shoot higher with heavier bullets Mine have all shot pretty much point-on with 158s.

These things are extremly usable. When I was dealing with one of them a few years ago, I could stitch the chest area of a silhouette target at 50 yards- but only from prone or a real solid rested position.
 
K

Kentucky Rifle

New member
Hand_Rifle_Guy

My late 1970's 36 is exactly the same. Blue, same Bianchi thumb break holster that I bought new--the same thing! I shoot regular pressure Nyclad HP's.
You didn't say exactly how old your's is, but some of the "older" 36's were restricted to non +P ammo. (like mine.)
I bought a "Marine" Tuf-Cloth and wiped her down, buffed off the excess, and have no worries regarding rust. Tuf-Cloths are great! Especially the "Marine" version.

KR
 
C

C.R.Sam

New member
My 36s are early, no dash numbers. As said above, wipe it down when you put it away and the blue should be good for nuther 40 years or so. Holster wear will show before rust if properly cared for. You don't need to use +P ammo. Shoot it enough and it will get to like you and start puttin em all in one ragged hole. Leave the grips alone for a while. That will make you more consious of gettin a good sight picture. Takes practice to get good with the Js, but there is a bright side. Takes more practice to get good with the Js little sister.....the I frames.

Enjoy your little friend. It will serve you well for many years if you do your part.

Sam
 
K

Kentucky Rifle

New member
C.R. Sam speaks the truth...

My 24 year old 36 has been all over the country with me and there is not one speck of rust on it. Only some holster wear. I was carrying that blue Smith when concealed carry permits were something that people were saying would "NEVER" happen. :p My father has a Chief in .32 long. It's the only one I've ever seen. His still looks good too.

KR
 
A

AC

New member
I too carried a M36 for a few years. Mine was dogged-out when I got it (finish damage--someone left it in a cordura holster that got wet or something) so I had no fear of making it worse. This was back in appendix carry days and I did sweat on it but would tend to the external finish when I knew it had gotten a minor soaking. Not a bit of trouble; didn't rust on me.

For the past four years I've relied on a M642 but this reminds me of something I was thinking of last week. I liked that M36 better. It had character. It wasn't a piece of silverware that would go bang. Long live blued handguns.

Forget the trigger job unless yours is especially bad for some reason. The great thing about S&Ws is they don't need a trigger job. Most people with revolver misfire problems have been screwing with springs.

Load a light 158 gr for practice and carry +p 158 HPs.
 
D

don't shoot it's me

New member
Go with the t-grip....your gun is a classic and it looks great with the wood grips....not only that, but rubber tends to stick to clothing and when I carried mine in the rear pocket , my untucked shirt would hang up on the rubber and give it away....the shirt slides along the wood...same principle for a belt holster or ankle also...
 
G

gumshoe4

New member
Love those J-frames-mine is the most carried gun I own. It goes everywhere with me when I can't carry something larger (and sometimes even when I can!!).

Ordinarily, I'd advise to go with the rubber boot grip, which is what I have on my 649. I've never personally experienced the dreaded "fabric crawl" with this grip, either in ankle or IWB carry, but that may be because my adipose is protecting me.

In your case, however, with such a classic revolver, I'd go with the T-grips and leave the finish alone. Just be religious about wiping and cleaning the gun after you've carried it and you should be fine.

Congratulations on the cool piece. Want to show us a picture?
 
R

RonH

New member
I have the M37 airweight version of this gun. I bought it used and sent it back to S&W because of occasional misfires. I think someone may have tried to do a trigger job and lightened it too much. I really like mine, shoots to the point of aim with 158 grainers, and is not unpleasant at all to shoot. When I bought it, it came withe uncle Mike's rubber grips which I liked, but I wanted wood so I ordered walnut service grips from S&W. By the way, what are T-grips?
 
K

Kentucky Rifle

New member
"Fabric Crawl"...

Last saturday night, I went to a strip mall book store. I had to park my car several stores away. As I was walking to the book store, I passed the windows of other stores and I glanced at my reflection. To my shock, the rubber grips on my AirLite Ti were holding the tail of my coat up EXPOSING my pistol. (Which was in a belt slide holster.)
I think I'm going to switch to slick hardwood grips. They look better anyway.
In Kentucky, if you have a concealed carry license, your pistol MUST be covered at all times. Depending on the LEO, the wind blowing open your jacket exposing your pistol could be cause for arrest. (Although many of my friends are LEO's and wholeheartedly agree with concealed carry. They just can't agree "out loud" due to our anti gun mayor..who is soon to be GONE from office. Thank God!)

KR
 
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