HS6 - 158gr Rainier - .38/.357

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hounddawg

New member
another newbie question or two.

I think I am pretty much set now with 500 copper 158 grain jacketed round noses, some small pistol primers and a pound of HS6. I and looked up the load data at both the Rainier site and the Hodgdon site. The Rainier site specified to use lead bullet load data for their bullets due to the soft coating and the Hodgdon site recommended 5.7 grains for .38 special and 6.0 grains for the .357 for 158 grain wadcutters.

These will just be for target shooting so I was thinking about cutting it down a bit to a even 5.0 grains for the .38 and 5.5 grains for the .357 loads. At this point I am more concerned with getting all the shots on the paper at 25 yards more than shooting any perfect scores. Also will the small pistol primers work for the .357 loads or should I hold off on loading the .357's until I can locate some small pistol magnum primers?

Thanks in advance for any input
 
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WESHOOT2

New member
Do NOT start below 6.0g HS6 / Rainier 158g TCJ in 357 Magnum; do NOT start below 5.6g in 38 Special.

I most highly recommend crimping separately with the Redding Profile Crimp Die.
Since the Rainiers offer no cannelure ('crimp groove') the Redding's gentle taper and if-adjusted-correctly gentle finish 'roll' (not too much; vary and test for accuracy) can aid both accuracy and ballistic consistency.

You CAN test with small pistol primers (either Federal, CCI500 or WSP), but suggest adding Small Pistol Magnum primers for your 357 Magnum loading; recommend Federal, Remington, and CCI (NOT Winchester).

Next powder to add: W231. Then Universal.
 
H

hounddawg

New member
Thanks for the advice first of all but now a few more questions.

Do NOT start below 6.0g HS6 / Rainier 158g TCJ in 357 Magnum; do NOT start below 5.6g in 38 Special.
Click to expand...

Ok so what is posted on the powder makers site would be the minimum load for that weight bullet then. Just for my education what would have happened if I had loaded with a lighter load? Something bad I would assume.


I most highly recommend crimping separately with the Redding Profile Crimp Die.
Since the Rainiers offer no cannelure ('crimp groove') the Redding's gentle taper and if-adjusted-correctly gentle finish 'roll' (not too much; vary and test for accuracy) can aid both accuracy and ballistic consistency.
Click to expand...

I will be using the basic Lee hand loader at first at least. If I really get into this I will upgrade to a turret loader later on.

You CAN test with small pistol primers (either Federal, CCI500 or WSP), but suggest adding Small Pistol Magnum primers for your 357 Magnum loading; recommend Federal, Remington, and CCI (NOT Winchester).
Click to expand...

so far the only small pistol primers I have been able to find locally (3 different gun shops so far) are 500 Mag Tech and 100 Federal. One shop is hoping for a shipment of CCI's in both small pistol and small pistol magnum by the end of the month.

Next powder to add: W231. Then Universal.
Click to expand...

Any opinions on Clays or Tite Group? I have seen those mentioned on other .38 special and .357 mag threads and just wondering.

Once again thanks for the advice and knowledge.
 
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WESHOOT2

New member
not dumb; yer just in a hurry

1) Lighter loads, those below data, often act erractically in ignition and/or combustion. They can also leave a bullet lodged in the bore.

2) Apply crimp gently with that tooling (I own two of those kits :D), in steps, reaching for 'just a bit, enough to keep bullets from creeping forward from the case during recoil.

3) Either primer will be fine. Be warned that CERTAIN powders under CERTAIN conditions may REQUIRE Magnum primers for correct ignition.

4) Yes, I have opinions about Clays and Titegropup; notice I made no mention of them?
I did not, because the two choices I offered have been well-proven over many years to allow safe loading, clean burning, and excellent accuracy opportunity, and enormous amounts of proven, safe, accuracy-enhancing data exists for each.
W231 is a 'perfect' 38 Special powder, suitable even for the sport of Bullseye target shooting.
Universal is a modern equivalent of Unique, yet offers users significant advantages in metering and cleanliness.
Both have wide safe operating ranges in the two cartridges mentioned.

Hope this helps.
 
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hounddawg

New member
Thanks once again for the info.Sorry for the impatience.

Today I checked out a copy of "The ABC's of Reloading" by C Rodney James from the local library and started reading it. He had a few paragraphs in there on undercharges and it amazed me that a undercharge can cause a overpressure situation. I have a feeling that I will probably will be ordering a copy for myself from Amazon. I will also be sure to stick to the powders you recommended for a long while to come for the reasons you mentioned.

Got my kit in last evening and de-primed, sized, re-primed , and flared 50 .38 cases. Still waiting on my bullets to be delivered so I can finish them off. As I said in my first post this is the first time I have attempted re loading since the late 70's and I had completely forgotten what little I knew. I had totaly forgotten the loader has a crimper. Also I remember the priming to be "touchier" in the older models, last evening I managed to prime all 50 without burning my fingers knock on wood.

I found the part of the process that I was able to complete quite relaxing and unless I start doing larger quantities than I anticipate I think I will stick to the basic hand loading. At this point I don't see myself doing more than 100 cartridges a week. But I am still going to build a sturdy bench next week with storage areas just in case I decide I cannot live without a press.
 
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WESHOOT2

New member
two, maybe three more quick hints

1) Wear safety glasses when touching anything other than paper.

2) Wear a heavy glove on the hand holding the 'primer rod' when hammering in primers
(WARNING: PRIMERS WILL EXPLODE).
Took over eight years for those embedded primer particles to disappear from my fingertips....

3) A LEE Reloader press costs about $25 (but don't push real hard on its handle).
 
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mikld

New member
Good advice given so far. I can only add getting some loading manuals. I would suggest a manual or two from a bullet manufacturer, one or two from a powder manufacturer, and one or two from a "neutral" source; Lyman's 49th edition and Lee's Modern Reloading are good choices. Lee leans heavily toward Lee equipment but that's not a bad thing.

By completing each step in reloading using the Lee Loader you are learning the "why" (theory) of each operation and how it affects the finished round. When you tire of banging on your dies (I did!) you can move to a single stage press without investing too heavily into equipment. There's a lot of info in the sticky at the top of the H&R page; "For the New Reloader..."

Reloading is a very rewarding and fun addition to shooting hobbys. Go slow, be safe, and enjoy! :D
 
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hounddawg

New member
- safety glasses, you betcha. Got a prescription pair a few years back. Ugly as sin but better looking than a eyepatch

- gloves. I didn't wear any the other night but you are right I probably should start wearing a light leather glove on the primer rod hand.

- Just ordered the ABC's of Reloading, Lyman's cast bullet Handbook, Sierra 5Th Edition Rifle And Handgun Reloading Manual, The Complete Reloading Manual for the 9mm Luger, The Complete Reloading Manual for the .357 Magnum, The Complete Reloading Manual for the .38 Special from Amazon. I figure that will be a good start at least.
 
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