Using a dial caliper, how do you get consistent readings for the taper crimp on, for example, .45auto?
I'm talking about the trouble I have actually taking a reading on a case.
So what I do is eyeball the case to see if I get a straight line reflection of my overhead fluorescent tubes.
For roll crimps, I look for a slight bend in the reflection at the mouth.
Otherwise, I find it nearly impossible to get consistent readings, even on the same case.
Do you guys use the fat part of the caliper, or the knife-edge part? Do you take readings with the case mouth horizontal or vertical?
Please know that I am not having any problem correctly crimping my cases. But I have read here and elsewhere about the importance of a correct crimp. Well, at the numbers thrown around in .45auto, say, .469 up to .472, there is no way one can accurately and consistently measure by hand such a fine range (4 thou) on the very end of a round object. I'm not planning to change my technique, just wondering how you guys take your measurements.
What gives?
.
I'm talking about the trouble I have actually taking a reading on a case.
So what I do is eyeball the case to see if I get a straight line reflection of my overhead fluorescent tubes.
For roll crimps, I look for a slight bend in the reflection at the mouth.
Otherwise, I find it nearly impossible to get consistent readings, even on the same case.
Do you guys use the fat part of the caliper, or the knife-edge part? Do you take readings with the case mouth horizontal or vertical?
Please know that I am not having any problem correctly crimping my cases. But I have read here and elsewhere about the importance of a correct crimp. Well, at the numbers thrown around in .45auto, say, .469 up to .472, there is no way one can accurately and consistently measure by hand such a fine range (4 thou) on the very end of a round object. I'm not planning to change my technique, just wondering how you guys take your measurements.
What gives?
.