How do you clean primer pocket with progressive die?

[maillemaker]

So I have gotten all the goodies needed to start using my Lee 1000 Progressive reloader that my Dad got me for Christmas some 10 years ago.

I have been reading the Lyman reloader handbook, and the ABCs of Reloading.

They all basically describe doing each step of the process with a single turret press.

In other words, you deprime all of them at once, then clean the primer pocket, clean your brass, resize the, etc, etc, as separate operations.

But how do you do this with a progessive reloader? Mine takes primed cases, deprimes them, resizes them, charges them, primes them, and puts bullets in them, all in one go.

I can tumble them before the whole process, but obviously you can't clean the primer pocket.

Same thing for checking case length and trimming and deburring.

So was it a mistake to get a progressive reloader?

 

[hogcowboy]

Simple answer is....you don't. On my Dillon, if I want clean primer pockets I have to deprime, run the brass through my tumbler, then recycle the depriming process with the clean brass this time priming. You don't need clean pockets every time. Or at least I don't. No I don't think you made a mistake.

 

[zippy13]

A good question, mailmaker. Your observation is correct, primer pocket work and progressive tools are generally mutually exclusive. The simple answer is that the typical progressive press user doesn't worry about his primer pockets a whole lot. He, may from time to time, interrupt the process and do his primer pockets separately. I typically load pistol ammo with a progressive press (Dillon) and the only time I'm concerned with primer pockets is if I've got some fresh military brass with crimped primers.

If you're looking for ultimate accuracy, than a progressive press is a poor choice; but, if you're like me, and don't worry about your primer pockets too much, then a progressive will work just fine. You may wish to de-prime before tumbling from time to time. And, as you said, "Same thing for checking case length and trimming and deburring."

 

[m&p45acp10+1]

If it is for pistol rounds do not worry about trimming, or primer pocket cleaning. I have reloaded over 20 thousand rounds this past year of pistol ammo, and have as of yet needed to trim, or clean the primer pocket of a single one. All have fired without fail.

 

[Longdayjake]

Cleaning primer pockets is overrated. So what if they are a little dark and dirty? You won't see it anyway. Even with crazy accurate rifle shooting it is only important to do just to give you the peace of mind that everything is good to go. I personally never see a difference in accuracy between properly cleaned pockets and dirty ones.

 

[Colorado Redneck]

Yeah---you messed up



I will take that off your hands for free, if you want.

 

[demigod]

Primer pocket cleaning is not needed. I've read studies where guys have fired 40 round comparisons.... 40 clean and 40 not.... match ammo through a precision gun.... no accuracy difference.

Now for any ammo loaded on a progressive press, there's no WAY you'll know a difference.

 

[bbqncigars]

If you're really worried about the primer pockets (or anal like me), deprime and run the brass through a tumbler with some SS media. As long as the exterior of the brass is clean, your sizing die will be happy. Case lube is mandatory for bottleneck cases or non-t.c. dies, btw.


Wayne

 

[JerryM]

I have loaded many thousands of pistol rounds, and never cleaned a single primer pocket. It's a waste of time.

I do admit that when I load my big game rifle rounds I do clean the primer pockets. It is just a labor of love, and since I use a single stage press, and never load more than about 40 rounds it is easily done.

Regards,
Jerry

 

[maillemaker]

Thanks for the replies, all.

Steve

 

[demigod]

I do admit that when I load my big game rifle rounds I do clean the primer pockets. It is just a labor of love, and since I use a single stage press, and never load more than about 40 rounds it is easily done.

I can appreciate that. If I'm loading a specialty round, I just use new brass.

Another option for really clean primer pockets is an ultra sonic cleaner. It's a fast way to get brass really clean. But it's labor intensive and really not worth the hastle for bulk practice ammo.

 

[cdoc42]

I have never cleaned primer pockets nor trimmed brass for .38 special, .357 Mag, .44 Mag, .454 Casull, .380 Auto or 9mm. Never had a round that didn't fire.

I DID have a problem with my .270 Win in Remington Model 700 where I had an occasional failure to fire, and seemed to be traced to the primer not being seated deeply enough. As I was told, the legs of the anvil have to bottom out. This was NOT using a progressive press, just priming each case at a time, manually. So either I didn't exert enough pressure (even though they felt "flat") or there was sufficient debris in the primer pocket prevent complete seating.

So I do clean all rifle primer pockets as a result, even though I have not had a similar problem with .22-250, 6mmPPC, .25-06, .308 WIN, .30WSM, .270WSM, .300WinMAg, and .338 WinMAg.

It's easier to do with my Lyman electric trimmer which has an extension that holds a spinning primer pocket brush. Last night I inspected 70 cases for neck/web splits, brushed graphite in the mouths, resized and deprimed, measured all for proper size, then trimmed 50 of them, chamfered and deburred them. It took exactly one hour.