How can I - unport - my ported barrel?

mcubed4130

New member
Here's an interesting question. - ok, I think it's interesting anyway! ;)

mcubed4130_mossberg_long_range.jpg


As noted above, the slug barrel I use is ported. Anyone have any nifty methods to get rid of this annoyance?

I'm tired of hitting my buddies on either side of me with spray (unless I remember to tell them to backup before I shoot).

Bolt on fake can or something? (mossberg 500 slug barrel - 12 gauge)

Thanks in advance.

-M3
 

rog45us

New member
Hope this help

Try moving your bipod up and cover the hole. Then you can a move it back when you want.
 

biglabsrule

New member
well you could either tig/mig weld them closed but... you're going to have to file the inside of the barrel where the penetration occures, plus it will mess up the look totaly,

You could use a flap disk to take of the bead face but it'll never look quite right(factory new), even after rebluing it.

I'd say the only good fix is a new barrel, or hell buy a new gun ;p, can pick up a used wingmaster for 250 in great shape, can't go wrong there ..!!
 

ConcealCarryNY

New member
Find a correct size piece of pipe cut in half weld some ears on then run some bolts to clamp it down over the holes. Maybe even blue it to make it look nice.
 

Redneckrepairs

New member
I am not shure where the ports are on it , but most likely there is a threaded choke tube system out there that would extend back to cover them , just have it reamed and threaded for it and then with a cyllinder choke you have your slug gun , and with others more options open up .

Edited to add never mind lol or use a combo of cut down the tube and then choke it , Someday ill learn to let pics ect.. load before i shoot off my mouth lol .
 

Redneckrepairs

New member
Duct tape

ROFLMAO

The thing is uppon thinking about this , it appears a couple of wraps of duct tape when you go to the range would actualy work and safely . I just cant get the image of a shotty all tricked out with " cowboy chrome " out of my head .. Now ill go see if i can mop the coffee out of the keyboard .
 

mcubed4130

New member
[Eyeballing the duct tape on the table] - not sure if I could bring myself to do that... ;)

So.... Options I think are:

1. Buy a new 24" fully rifled barrel w/cantilever scope mount - but no porting - for a Mossberg 500 12g, from ?!?!?! Personally I've never seen anyone offering this setup, but if exists, I'd certainly consider it. Anyone got a URL?

2. The pipe, or threaded choke tube idea, I would think has some merit, I see a company called "Spikes Tactical" who makes fake cans for AR style rifles... that screw on and cover up the barrel, or extend... obviously in my case covering up the barrel would work well... I think. Anyone seen anything like this for sale for a 12g barrel anywhere?

Since the barrel is for slugs (fully rifled) - I don't want to chop it. I have on occasion moved the bipod barrel rail mount forward, and that does work fine, so I guess I could continue to do that... was just looking for a more finished solution to the problem.

-M3
 

ebutler462

New member
I repeat that the neatest job can be done with either soft or silver solder. I would use regular soft solder instead of silver as it takes a lot of heat to melt silver solder. Much easier to work with.
 

mcubed4130

New member
I would use regular soft solder instead of silver as it takes a lot of heat to melt silver solder. Much easier to work with.

Can you toss me a brand of solder you like, and perhaps a URL on how to use it? Or would I be better off just showing up at my local gunsmith, and having them do it? (knowing in advance that soft solder is a good method of dealing with this issue).

-M3
 

ebutler462

New member
This type repair is best done by a gunsmith so that the proper flux is used. He might want to use silver solder. Most gun repairs, including installing polychokes is done with soft solder. Double barreled guns are held together with soft solder. Good stuff. He will not overheat your barrel enough that it loses its strength. Having a gunsmith do it will make for pretty work.
 

Bill DeShivs

New member
Soft solder certainly will not cure your problem. It would be blown out on the first shot, as would duct tape.
Properly shortening your barrel will have no effect on shooting slugs. This is your best bet.
Welding the holes closed is not a viable option, either.
Bill
 

publius

New member
nothing you do is going to look good except for a new barrel. If you just want to lessen the sound at the range duct tape will work. Friend of mine bought a mossy 835 when they first came out and brought it into my duck blind. Damn thing killed us with the noise. Told him he couldn't bring it back unless he found a way to cover the ports. The duct tape worked.
 

liliysdad

New member
If you cut and crown the barrel, it may actually shoot better than it does now. The shorter barrel will be stiffer, and thus, theoretically, more prone to accuracy. I would also move the bipod to the mag tube if it were mine.

Another good trick to improve slug accuracy is to drill and tap for a 8-40 screw in the front of the receiver, through the barrel, thus improving the lockup. I have seen this mod decrease groups by 40% by itself.
 

ebutler462

New member
Or you can get a gunsmith to silver solder it for much less. It seems that some post belittle soft solder so try silver solder. I used regular solder to close the ports in my Condor Supreme. Still shooting it. This gun may have different ports than mine so only a gunsmith can really tell. Don't take my word. Get a professional opinion. I don't want to be responsible for it.
 
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