how best to deal with non zero stop knobs.
- Thread starter dvdcrr
- Start date
bamaranger
New member
improvised stop
There is/was a YouTube video showing improvised "zero stops" by using a PVC pipe fitting and cutting it to length. I've done it and it worked for me on a Bushnell Elite fixed 10x. The PVC tube acts as a spacer and only allows the the knob to crank down to the zero you establish.
I can't exactly advise what fitting or diameter used, but the arrangement fit tidy like beneath the target/varmint turret. I had to cut a couple to get it where I wanted it, but once I got it, the arrangement has worked fine.
Essentially works thus: Set the elevation to the desired zero setting. Loosenen the screw holding the elevation knob in place, and removes the knob carefully without adding any clicks. To do this one must keep the elevation knob from turning as the screw is loosened and removed. Place the PVC fitting inside the elevation knob, and set the knob with insert, on top of the elevation turret and rethread the screw that attatches same. The screw should snug up, with the knob resting on top of the insert you fashioned.
Look for the video, best I can do in print.
There is/was a YouTube video showing improvised "zero stops" by using a PVC pipe fitting and cutting it to length. I've done it and it worked for me on a Bushnell Elite fixed 10x. The PVC tube acts as a spacer and only allows the the knob to crank down to the zero you establish.
I can't exactly advise what fitting or diameter used, but the arrangement fit tidy like beneath the target/varmint turret. I had to cut a couple to get it where I wanted it, but once I got it, the arrangement has worked fine.
Essentially works thus: Set the elevation to the desired zero setting. Loosenen the screw holding the elevation knob in place, and removes the knob carefully without adding any clicks. To do this one must keep the elevation knob from turning as the screw is loosened and removed. Place the PVC fitting inside the elevation knob, and set the knob with insert, on top of the elevation turret and rethread the screw that attatches same. The screw should snug up, with the knob resting on top of the insert you fashioned.
Look for the video, best I can do in print.
bamaranger
New member
clarify
Let me clarify, when I wrote "set the zero", I meant establish the desired zero by shooting the rifle and obtaining the desired point of impact, ie "zero the rifle at the desired distance" may have been a better phrase.
Then start dorking with the inserts.
Let me clarify, when I wrote "set the zero", I meant establish the desired zero by shooting the rifle and obtaining the desired point of impact, ie "zero the rifle at the desired distance" may have been a better phrase.
Then start dorking with the inserts.
Get a FFP with a Horus Reticle. Zero once, then you won't have to touch the knobs again. http://horusvision.com/reticles.php
I have the H37 and it works great up to 1200 yards.
I have the H37 and it works great up to 1200 yards.
If the adjustments have a coarse scale on the adjustment barrel and fine ones on the knob, once a zero's attained, mark red line on the closest visible line on the barrel next to the knob edge and another red line on the knob's line that aligns with the index line.
Use different colors for different range zeros. One guy used one of the old electric resistor color coded mnemonic rules for remembering the numeric value for each one from zero to nine for each hundred yards of range:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_electronic_color_code_mnemonics
Or, if you know your rifle needs 5 MOA worth of clicks up from boresight for a 200 yard zero, with the elevation knob set for that zero, loosen the knob lock screw then reset the elevation knob to "5" MOA worth of graduations then mark the line. Reset the windage knob to zero on its barrel, too.
Then there's the old standby method. Once a range zero's obtained, count the clicks down on the elevation knob to where it stops; the come up from that point's written down for that range zero. Do it for other ranges, too. Then do the same with the windage knob counting its clicks to the left limit; going right from it puts the adjustments back to a shooting zero.
Use different colors for different range zeros. One guy used one of the old electric resistor color coded mnemonic rules for remembering the numeric value for each one from zero to nine for each hundred yards of range:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_electronic_color_code_mnemonics
Or, if you know your rifle needs 5 MOA worth of clicks up from boresight for a 200 yard zero, with the elevation knob set for that zero, loosen the knob lock screw then reset the elevation knob to "5" MOA worth of graduations then mark the line. Reset the windage knob to zero on its barrel, too.
Then there's the old standby method. Once a range zero's obtained, count the clicks down on the elevation knob to where it stops; the come up from that point's written down for that range zero. Do it for other ranges, too. Then do the same with the windage knob counting its clicks to the left limit; going right from it puts the adjustments back to a shooting zero.
4runnerman
New member
Im a click counter. Old fashion, but it works for me. Keep a card with me always.
To old to remember how many. I look at the card and click away.
To old to remember how many. I look at the card and click away.