Hornady LnL AP Primer System Fix Permanently

cryogenic419

New member
I had the issue starting on my machine. I work at a large metals facility that supplies a lot of the places like Mcmaster Carr with raw materials, so I was able to get a nice little .09 thick 1" by 1" square of 4130 steel. Glued to the press to hold in place, the dimple will never be an issue again. Put that together with their updated primer seater assembly which uses a solid shaft end instead of that pointy ended one that they were using.

I think that pointy end more than anything caused or at least seriously contributed to the issue. Wouldn't kill them to have done a steel insert in the press from the factory. They had to have known this prior to shipping these units out the door. If not before, they certainly had to know once they started shipping them.

I did find that even after my steel plate and new primer plug that rifle primers were still seating just at flush. It wasn't until I started uniforming primer pockets that they went just below flush. Pistol was always a just below flush.

Despite its quirks this really is a great press and I have no regrets.
 

Shootest

New member
I don’t think it is a ¼ inch drill bit. The screw is ¼ inch in diameter if you use a ¼ drill you will have no threads. I know a ¼-20NC is a #7 drill bit, but not sure what a ¼-28NF is. You don’t want to have people drilling on their press with the wrong bit.
 

RNG

New member
This seems to be a pretty good fix. It may be cost prohibitive for some if you don't already own the 90 degree attachment. I wasn't comfortable drilling a hole deep enough to to tap so I modified the mod. Had a 1/4" clevis pin lying around the shop and cut a small(solid) 1/4" section from it. Drilled a slightly smaller hole less than 1/4" deep. Tapped in the piece of the clevis pin and used a dremel to sand it flush. A piece cut from the smooth shank of a bolt/screw would work just as well. YMMV
 

Mr.RevolverGuy

New member
Mis wording shootest I will correct it is a 1/4in tap but they come in a complete set. WHich is the reason for trying to post clear pictures so folks can see the item's.

I will correct.
 

Mr.RevolverGuy

New member
Changed to.

Drill and Tap Set from Lowes, and 1/4 tap with 28 threads per inch. If you so chose you can get a larger set. What matters most is to get the drill bit and tap in the set as both will be the appropriate size.
 
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schmellba99

New member
This seems to be a pretty good fix. It may be cost prohibitive for some if you don't already own the 90 degree attachment. I wasn't comfortable drilling a hole deep enough to to tap so I modified the mod. Had a 1/4" clevis pin lying around the shop and cut a small(solid) 1/4" section from it. Drilled a slightly smaller hole less than 1/4" deep. Tapped in the piece of the clevis pin and used a dremel to sand it flush. A piece cut from the smooth shank of a bolt/screw would work just as well. YMMV

This is what I was planning on doing. Both are good methods though.

I've also made some other mods to my priming system that have eliminated every other problem I ever had. I don't have a big enough dimple yet to really worry about though, but it's coming at some point I know.
 

madmo44mag

New member
I own a older Pro-Jector press
The LnL's daddy so to speak.
On the Pro-Jector the primer punch is threaded and can be adjusted to correct for the frame wear.
Is the LnL primer punch not threaded?
 

schmellba99

New member
On the Pro-Jector the primer punch is threaded and can be adjusted to correct for the frame wear.
Is the LnL primer punch not threaded?

The primer punches are threaded into the sub plate from the bottom, and there is a little bit of adjustment as a result. But if you don't thread it in far enough, the seater ram won't raise high enough to properly seat a primer.

The frame is an aluminum alloy and it's pretty common to have a small dimple wear into the frame from the bottom of the primer punch. A pretty easy fix, but something Hornady should have predicted easily in design and done a better job at preventing.

A lot of folks glue a nickel or a small piece of hardened steel on the frame over the dimple, and it works just fine. But I'm not the type that will like such a fix as a permanent solution and will find something cleaner and that won't have a point of failure later down the road.
 

dickttx

New member
There is a dimple on mine after about 15K rounds, however, it has not caused me any problems seating primers.
Since there is currently about three similar threads going on now in the various forums, I thought I surely must have a problem, but just not recognizing it!:)
This morning when I set up to load I put a dime over the dimple. My shellplate wouldn't completely index to the next position. When I removed the dime it worked as always.
So keep in mind if you really have a problem with primers not seating enough and have to put a coin, washer, piece of metal, etc over the dimple, you will probably have to adjust the indexing.
 
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