Hornady Concentricity Guage

hooligan1

New member
I had to have one, and after the mrs. gave me the okay I picked one up. The guage is simple to put together and get started.
I struggled getting the right feel at first but after four different calibers and 200 cartridges I learned one thing: sometimes our seating dies dont align bullets perfectly everytime. Also from the reviews it seems the majority of users noticed improvements in their groups... Damn I hope it helps mine!!!?:rolleyes:
 

1stmar

New member
I have one and to a certain degree it will correct runout. But I believe it may come at a cost so I do not use it for anything other then measuring runout. The way it adjusts is to put pressure on one side of the bullet and press, I have to believe it changes neck tension by doing this. I may be wrong.
 

hooligan1

New member
1stmarine, I also found this to be true with .243 winchester where a fine touch is needed so as not to loosen neck tension.
 
No question that it is best to have not runout in the first place. I often use a Lee Collet Die and a separate Redding Body Die for the case below the neck to avoid case neck runout, or else get a Redding S die, remove the expander and use bushing that just bring the necks to size. Use a Lyman M die to put a step in the case mouth to help start bullets in straight when using a standard seater, or get the Redding Competition Seater or the Forster Bench Rest or Ultra Micrometer Seaters.

Since the bend is generally at the junction of the neck and shoulder, you can drill a neck-size hole in your bench and stick the round down in there and push with your thumb on the case to bend it back without changing the neck's grip on the bullet. It takes a little trial and error, but works OK.

Here's why I like the Lee Collet die.

Here's why I like the Redding Competition Seater.

Note that if you are only interested in measuring runout and not in using the built-in bending method on the Hornady, you will get more sensitivity using a gauge that supports the case body for rotation and measures the bullet at the tip. The Sinclair gauge and the RCBS Casemaster and the NECO gauge with two V-blocks can all be used this way. The reason for this is the geometry shown below. However, if you already have the Hornady or the Forster gauge that supports a cartridge at the ends, you can still work out the angle of tilt for both types, which is the same. You just add the angle of bullet tilt to the angle of case body tilt (which is zero in the Sinclair type gauge, but not for the end support types).

RunoutGaugeTypesb_zps6cd0e11c.gif
 
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schmellba99

New member
I would think you'd want to measure the projectile more on the ogive rather than the tip.

I get the reasoning for measuring at the metplat, but that assumes that there are no fabrication tolerances, damages during shipping, etc. to the projectile itself. Which we all know is not necessarily the case.

Measuring further down the ogive should give a better reading to what the actual body of the projectile is in relation to the case axis and not simply what the tip of the projectile is in relation to the case axis.
 

Sierra280

Moderator
Check the runout on the case neck, and the bullet. You will never have good concentricity in a case whose neck is not perfectly inline with the case center axis.

UncleNick pretty much hit it on the head (as usual:) ). The use of high quality 'competition' dies can go a long way to helping correct this. Both, competition full length resizing dies (to get that neck inline) and competition seating dies (to set that little pill in there nice and straight). My buddies always poke fun at my set-up 'why do you have dies that cost WAY more than your press??!' (Redding Comp dies in a lee 4 station turret). "Because I spend money where I need to"
 
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schmellba99,

A close look should show it's not on the meplat. It's on the ogive (the whole curved nose surface) just aft of the meplat, so the usual meplat variations are not included. If it were a soft point, though, I'd certainly be behind that. The idea is just to get maximum resolution of the angular tilt of the bullet as it will lie in the chamber and to do it with minimal calculations. The angle is the only thing I've seen used in calculations of the drift component caused by how far the bullet center of gravity is pulled off the bore centerline by that tilt. That's why the angle, rather than where it comes from (neck wall runout, for example) is the focus of my interest there. I did not include the angle calculation but maybe I should add that to the drawing.

The end support gauge type still sorts and gives comparative readings just fine. I've got a Forster I've used for years for that purpose. It just wasn't until I built my own case supporting type that I realized how big the resolution difference is. And it makes the angle calculation simpler.
 
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hooligan1

New member
I'm using RCBS dies, and for hunting my ammo works pretty decent but I'm at a point to go a bit beyond that.
Unclenick if I use RCBS Casemaster and determine runout how would I correct this at that point other than switching dies? I read your reply where you said drill a hole in my bench and use that to correct the case...But wouldn't (in my case) it be simpler to use my Concentricity Guage?
I understand its better to kill runout before I use my standard seater, do you think if I remove expander ball that I could get less runout with my dies?
 
Hooligan1,

Just to be clear, I wouldn't use both a case master and the concentricity gauge. I was merely referring to how the Case Master measures concentricity giving higher resolution for figuring the tilt angle. If you are at the point of deciding which to buy, the Case Master additionally will let you measure internal case wall runout, and that helps sort out the best cases for a critical precision applications.

If you looked at the video on the Lee Collet Die I linked to, you'll see the neck is where the tilt is rooted. It is, indeed, the expander that is responsible for neck tilt introduced during resizing. One also bends or bulges the neck during seating if you push the bullet in cocked at an angle. That is the reason the seating dies matter. Bullet tilt caused by cocked seating is already stressing the neck wall unevenly, so correcting it with the Hornady or Bersen tools may make it no worse. The NECO tool or the hole in the bench are just less likely to worsen this when applied to the neck rather than just to the bullet.

The above is something you have to test empirically in your rifle, as some chamber and bullet combinations are more sensitive to bullet tilt than others. That is, some chambers seem to straighten bullets during firing better than others do. You’ll just have to shoot to decide whether straightening and how that straightening is done affects your rifle’s precision. You also want to take a chronograph to the range and see whether straightening affects you velocity SD’s. If it makes them worse, then you are getting irregular bullet pull that is affecting start pressure adversely. Such rounds probably won’t do as well at long range.

One test I like to do is to select a dozen rounds that are very straight and a dozen that are badly tilted. I mark the high side of the tilt with a magic marker or a sharpie on the back of the case head. I shoot ten fouling shots into a practice group (that seems like a lot, but I’ve seen some guns take that long to settle and I want a baseline group size and velocity SD anyway). Next, I shoot the marked twelve cartridges onto one target, chambering them so the high spot mark is indexed 90° for each shot. That is, one shot each at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, 9:00 in the chamber, and then back to 12:00 to start the next 4, etc., until all twelve are fired. I then clean the gun and fire ten more foulers to further establish my baseline means, and then the twelve straight rounds. If the gun is sensitive to tilt with the bullet as I’ve loaded it, the indexed group is biggest. Indeed, with a benchrest gun it will produce four distinct 3-shot groups forming a kind of four-leaf clover. If the cocked bullet seating affects bullet pull significantly, this group also has the highest velocity SD.

Assuming your chamber and load combination shows sensitivity to bullet tilt, you can repeat that experiment with straightened bullets and see what sort of group sizes and SD’s you get from them. Comparing them to the straight round group will reveal if your straightening method is adversely affecting anything or if it’s fixing them just fine.

In the case of the expander, you can remove it, but you will find your necks are narrower than they were when you used it. The standard die has to be able to resize the thinnest neck walls made. Most are not that thin, so running them into the neck of the die causes their ID's to be squeezed too narrow. That is what the expander corrects. If you get a neck too narrow, the bullet has to push that much harder on it during seating, so you tend to increase neck tilt and distortion introduced at that stage of the process.

There are a number of strategies to address this. One is to reduce friction between the neck and expander so the portion of the expanding force pulling on the neck during expansion is reduced. This can be done by lubricating inside necks, by going to a carbide expander, or better yet, to both.

Another is to size without the expander, then reinstall it and, using a good dose of inside neck lube, running the case up over the expander so the expansion happens pushing into the case. This seems to be less prone to neck tilt than pulling the case over the expander. Unlike a bullet, the expander doesn't tilt on its way in. Another approach is to use a mandrel with a tapered tip for the above action. That produces even less lateral force. Sinclair makes a die body that holds expander mandrels that can set the final ID in a case that has been sized without an expander. They are even available in carbide for still less friction, but I would use inside neck lube anyway.

Another possibility those using a standard seater die us to buy a Lyman M expander die. The M die originally was for cast bullet loading, but it helps start jacketed bullets straight into a case as well. It not only expands and flares, but puts a short step in the case neck below the flare that is a thousandth or two wider than the bullet. That step acts like a little cup you set the bullet into that holds it straight upright to enter the seater ram. This means the seater pushes the bullet straight down without tilt. For jacketed bullets you set the M die high enough so the step forms short of flaring. When you seat, you then want the seater die body set low enough that the crimp groove just irons the step out at the mouth for feed reliability, even if you aren't crimping. If you have a separate taper crimp die, that is best for this task.
 

mardanlin

New member
Whenever I seat the bullet I always spin it 180 degrees and press it again in hopes that this will center/align the bullet. Am I wasting my time or does this help?
 

jwrowland77

New member
Whenever I seat the bullet I always spin it 180 degrees and press it again in hopes that this will center/align the bullet. Am I wasting my time or does this help?


I do this too except I do it a 1/4 of the way and press it three additional times.

I can normally roll my round on my bench, and with the naked eye, there's 0 wobble in the bullet.
 

Longshot4

New member
Longshot4

I am impressed with the knowledge of loading on this sight. This is my first post and I hope not to step on any ones feet. I have wondered about the concentricity gage use over the last 35 or so years. My experience with looking for that .25"< group up to now has been with the so called conventional and BR style 7/8-14 dies from redding , Bonanza, rcbs and hornady. Although I have been considering purchasing one of those Wilson Chamber die sets to assemble the rounds with out concern about concentricity... It seams to me that if you don't build a defect you won't have to fix it. Or as I have heard (Keep it simple). So now I ask you are the chamber dies the way to avoid concentricity problems?
 

hooligan1

New member
Unclenick is right, I believe that asnlong as I use my standard dies, the guage will get used and if I upgrade I could get a lot closer to perfection. I dont shoot matches as of yet but I strive to glean all of the accuracy from my rifles.

I loaded 19 7mm rem mag cartridges yesterday.
This is what steps I took...
I removed expander and polished it smoot with 0000 steelwool and flitz and then reinstalled it.
I then set my die to necksize only, being these cases were fireformed to my rifles chamber.
Before sizing I took an old bore brush, (clean) and brushed all carbon from outside of neck and inside of neck and lubed insides heavier than normal.
I noticed as I ran them through it was a lot smoother with less effort on extraction of expander from sized neck.
I camfered yhe case mouths a little more than they were, primed and charged cases.
As I inserted bullet into case mouth I held it firmly in place as it rode into the seating die.
All but one had small runout that was easy to correct to almost 0 runout with little effort from the Hornady Concentricity Guage..
 

Bart B.

New member
Kudos, Unclenick, for posting those excellent pictures of how bullet runout varies with measuring tool setup.

I've learned the best way to measure bullet runout on bottleneck cases headspacing on their shoulders is to use a point in the middle of the shoulder as its front reference. As such cases center in the chamber shoulder up front when fired, any offset of the case neck and/or bullet will best be measured with this setup. No part of the case centers in the chamber other than its shoulder; its back end's pressed against the chamber wall by the extractor where it's pressure ring is. Case necks play no part in centering them in the chamber neck; they don't touch the chamber neck at all when fired.

All cases are a bit out of round just back of their body-shoulder junction and whatever that amount is, it'll add/subtract from any runout numbers on the bullet. With the case shoulder centered in a hole, or even a V block for the shoulder to rest in, will give the best indications of where the bullet axis is in the chamber when the round fires.

There's also a little bit of out if round issues at the case back end; the pressure ring is typically where it's at. That's the area where it contacts the chamber wall.

With 2 to 3 thousandths bullet runout on 30 caliber cartridges, it's easy to get 1/4 MOA groups at 100 yards, 1/3 MOA at 300 or 5/8 MOA at 600 yards. Perfectly straight ammo alone is not the solution. A good barrel properly chambered and fit to a receiver and stocked the right way will shoot factory match ammo that well with that much runout and metered, not weighed powder charges in brand new cases.
 
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hooligan1

New member
I would like you fellas to check out this stand my buddy fabricated for this guage to stand verticle, it makes operation ten times easier for me since my injury. But my phone is unable to load pictures... It is made of aluminum, and is made on a 90 degree angle and the guage is mounted vertically, making operation perfect for me.
 

Bart B.

New member
Redding has and excellent article on concentricity:

http://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/146-concentricity-problems

Benchresters finally learned a few years ago that the best way to get the straightest necks when resizing fired bottleneck cases was to use gelded full length sizing dies whose neck diameters are 1 to 2 thousandths smaller than that of a loaded round's neck. Neck only sizing dies do not hold the case body concentric with the die's neck axis; the case body is free to bend in any direction. And "gelded" dies are those with out balls; expander balls, that is. They only need to reduce case body diameters a thousandth or so and set the fired case shoulder back that same amount. This setup enables the largest groups shot to be the smallest; the smallest ones are still the same size as those produced with cases resized in neck only dies. Ammo that shoots groups from 1 to 5 units of measurements is more accurate that stuff that shoots from 1 to 8 units. Isn't it???

The best commercial full length sizing dies are those made by Redding and RCBS; their bushings are interchangeable between makes. And they come in .001" diameter increments. Best accuracy results happen when a standard full length sizing die's used but its neck is honed out to a diameter to size fired case necks down just enough and there's no expander ball coming back up through the case neck bending it. Forster hones out their dies for $10 a pop.

In a nutshell, if the sized case neck ain't straight and concentric with the case body axis, no bullet seating die made will completely straighten it out.
 
Bart,

You've got me imagining an entirely new concentricity measuring setup base on the shoulder datum. I'll have to try building it and see it it's too much trouble to use or not? I'll let you know.

Below are the bullet tilt angle equations. In the bottom illustration, the dimension A is just from the shoulder/neck junction to wherever you have your measuring point. It doesn't have to be all the way at the tip.

BulletRunout_zpsfbe04f07.gif



Mardanlin and Jwrowland77,

I experimented with incremental seating and rotating back around 1990, but never got what I would call a great improvement doing it. This was using a Redding standard seater for .30-06. A die with a flimsier seating stem, like the RCBS, might do better as that long stem approximates a floating seater pretty well. I'd have to run the test again to verify this as I can't find any notes on it. I just remember I still got tilted bullets using it. I was left with the impression that once the bullet is started into the neck, the die is largely cast.

What you might try is just barely starting the bullet into the neck, rotating, then barely starting it again, doing this two or three times to see if that straightens its start into the neck any. Frankly, though, using the M die is easier.

Another thought I had was to try turning the case mouth against a cake of paraffin and putting a little Imperial sizing wax or Hornady Unique lube on the bullet ogive where the contact mark from the seater appears. (If you don't get that ring mark, you can use Magic Marker ink on the bullet to find where contact is made.) The idea is just to let the two contact points slip enough to self-align. I don't know without measuring what the effect of the paraffin on bullet pull might be. The lube can be wiped off the bullet after seating, obviously.


Longshot4,

Read this test at the Rifleman's Journal if you haven't found it already. I wish more brands had been available to the author.
 

Bart B.

New member
Cartridge Bullet Runout Measuring Chamber

Unclenick, I made a tool with a nylon washer whose 3/8" inside hole aligned with a .308 Win. case held level between two 1/4" threaded rods with bearings at the back end for the case pressure ring to ride on. Pressed the round gently into the washer while holding it down on the bearings as I spun the case. Dial indicator was touching the bullet ogive about 1/4" back from its tip.

Back end of the case at its pressure ring on bearing flats with less than .0002 runout and the shoulder centered in that 3/8" hole seemed to work just fine. I used a nylon washer as I didn't want to score case shoulders with anything harder.

I was going to make one from a cut off chamber section of a rifle barrel parted at the chamber mouth right in front of the chamber shoulder. Then drill two holes at the back end 60 degrees apart (one at 11 o'clock and 1 at 1), partially thread the tops of each, then put in steel balls, springs and set screws. That would press the back end of the case against the "chamber" wall just like extractors do. The bottom of the holes would be smaller than the 1/8" diameter steel balls so they wouldn't go through into the "chamber" when it was unloaded. Pushing a round into this thing seating its shoulder in the rig's shoulder would be exactly the same as if the round was chambered in a complete barrel. With the rig clamped on an aluminum plate, the dial indicator tip would be put near the bullet's tip in the 12 o'clock axis to measure absolute runout on that "loaded round." I think that's the best thing to to with a shot out barrel's back 2 or 3 inches at the breech end. And it'll also measure case neck runout very well.

There's probably a dozen great ways to make such a runout measuring tool. I've thought about patenting such a thing, but I'll not contest your patenting it. This post is legal proof it's my original idea.
 
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