Help with Tikka accuracy

[Ultra12]

I have a Tikka varmint in 223. I bought it used with about 300 rounds trough it. I was sighting it in at 100 yards with Nikon monarch and usin privi ammo and Remington 55gr. It wasn't grouping as tight as I would like. It was def more than 1inch apart but not by much. I had no problem hitting both 6 and 9 inch steel plate at 200 yards. I would want to make it a varming rifle and perhaps my first gun for local competition shooting. I am planing to spend money in this gun (scope leupold/vortex/ zeiss and most likely a complete chassis). I don't want to invest 2k in to a gun that will not be worth it. I know Tikkas are great and I do own a sako ( my hunting gun in 3006)so I know it's quality but before I dump money in to it I would like to improve accuracy. I am thinking its either ammo / stock or gun. I did shoot using a vice. So no human error. I couldn't find havier bullets and hopping my gun will like them more due to 1:8 twist.


Now as far a stocks. I would like to have one aluminum block but B&C doesn't make them for bbl. the ones that do make stocks that accept bbl mostly don't have an aluminum block and with all the options cost as much as xlr and whiskey 3 chassis. So might as well get a chassis since it will come with most bells and whistles. But once again 800$+ investment to a gun that so far is marginally accurate.


Anyone have any thoughts? Btw gun is as good as new not obused and taken care off.

 

[mete]

Is it supposed to be a free floating barrel ? If not correct that.
Try different weight bullets.
Glass bed the stock.
Is the trigger OK ?

 

[jmr40]

Buying the B&C stock is a downgrade. The one that is on your rifle is a better stock. If you are shooting just over 1" with that ammo that is probably about as good as any rifle will shoot it. If you really want to get optimum accuracy you will have to spend a few $$$ for some premium ammo or start handloading.

 

[mapsjanhere]

Definitely try some more ammo, "around 1 " with Privi is pretty good to begin with. Tikka uses 8" twist in their 223, so you can go up in bullet weight too.

 

[Brian Pfleuger]

I can shoot my guns better than they shoot "locked down", in a lead sled. I use a rest that allows free recoil.

 

[Ultra12]

Thank you guys. Any recommendation on stocks? Helmick arms? Or just save up as get a complete chassis ?

 

[mete]

The connection between reciever and stock is more important than the stock itself.Try glass bedding first.

 

[jmr40]

I doubt glass bedding would help, or even be possible with a Tikka's recoil lug arrangement.

The stock you have is about as good as it is going to get. Spend your money on better ammo, reloading supplies or better glass.

 

[rbernie]

The rifle is highly accurate, providing that you use accurate (consistent) ammo. I have one, and it needs no work to make it solidly sub-MOA other than feeding it something other than plinking ammo.

 

[Txhillbilly]

If you want it to shoot tighter group's,you'll need to invest in some premium ammo,and/or start reloading.
Shooting cheap surplus/factory ammo will not give you the true accuracy of that weapon.
There is a large selection of premium varmint/hunting/match bullets if you reload,and then you can tailor each type of bullet to shoot the very best out of that rifle.

Oh,I wouldn't waste your money on one of those exotic stocks,the factory stock will do you just fine. I'd spend that money on a press,scale,dies,etc..

 

[trg42wraglefragle]

Ditch the priv ammo and get some federal or hornady.

Mine shot about 2" groups with Remington ammo, but have shot under 0.5" groups with hornady or federal.

 

[hagar]

Before you make any changes to it, make sure the barrel is clean and free of copper. Sometimes it can make an amazing difference.

 

[sholling]

I used to have a Tikka T3 Super Varmint and it liked 55gr Blazer Brass for some reason. But it would hold MOA even with the cheap ammo.

 

[stevelyn]

I can shoot my guns better than they shoot "locked down", in a lead sled. I use a rest that allows free recoil.

Yup. What he said.

Lose the vise and use a good owl-ear or sandbag rest instead. Locking a rifle in a vise or shooting cradle tends to change the way the recoil harmonics affect it, especially if it's touching the barrel or action.

Neither Privi nor Remington ammo would be my first choice for determining the functioning of, let alone the accuracy of a rifle, especially a Tikka that has a high-accuracy reputation out of the box.

Ideally handloads would be the best, but barring that, my first choice for accurate factory ammo starts with Federal Premium and Black Hills.

 

[4runnerman]

I agree with most here-Tikas are very accurate rifles. I would also go for a heavier bullet. Ditch the lead sled for sure. Just use a bag in front and back. I have found out over time- When you try to stop recoil,accuracy suffers. Let the rifle recoil to a point. Clean it real good.take 2 or 3 fouler shots and see what it will do. I think you might be amazed. Tikas are great rifles

 

[langenc]

Sled for a 223??

Make sure it is in the pocket of your shoulder and fire away.

 

[Achilles11B]

Perhaps some good match ammo would free the accuracy beast, so to speak.

Are these groups with irons or an optic? Maybe the glass (if any) is holding you back as well.

 

[btmj]

I have a buddy with a 223 Remington bolt... Of the factory ammo he has tried, this has been the most accurate:

http://www.federalpremium.com/products/details/rifle.aspx?id=146

Federal Premium "Gold Medal" GM223M, which is loaded with the excellent 69 grain Sierra Match King BTHP

As everyone else above has said, see what that fine Tikka can do with these premium cartridges BEFORE you make any changes to the rifle.

 

[Rimfire5]

I have a CZ 527 in .223 with a 1:9 twist varmint barrel and a HS Precision Kevlar factory stock.

Your rifle is going to have ammo preferences and you can't predict what they will be. For example, with factory ammo, I have measured my CZ as follows:
a. Hornady 60 gr TAP ammo shot .336 at 100 yards.
b. Hornady 55 gr TAP averaged 0.610 at 100 yards.
c. Black Hills 52 gr Match HP averaged 0.595 at 100 yards.
d. Hornady SuperFormance 55 gr average 1.455 at 100 yards.
e. Fiocchi FMJ 55 gr averaged 0.966 at 100 yards.
f. Fiocchi Sierra Match King 77 gr averaged 0.576 at 100 yards.

I couldn't make any rhyme or reason from that sample.
Pretty soon, I realized that most factory ammo sells velocity rather than accuracy and my rifle didn't necessarily like all bullet shapes to be at the high end of the loading table. Some it shot great, some it shot lousy as you can see.

When I started handloading for the CZ, everything changed.
First, I found that the rifle was very responsive to seating depth changes depending upon the powder and the bullet shape.
Second, I found that I could vary velocity and find a bullet in almost every weight range from 40 grains to 63 grains that all would average under 0.393 at 100 yards. The 10 best loads average 0.332 and represent bullet weights of 40, 45, 50, 52, 55, and 63 grains from Nosler, Berger and Sierra.

I have shot three of its favorite loads at 200 yards and have averaged from 0.690, 0.751 and 0.983.

I suggest you try a number of different factory ammos before you conclude anything. If you are fortunate enough to hand load your own ammo, don't presume that the 'most accurate load' in anyone's loading manual or someone's favorite load on a forum will suit your rifle.

The only way you will find your particular rifle's favorite loads is to experiment with different factory ammos and a bunch of hand loads.
I have hand loaded and shot 911 measured groups.
As soon as I started hand loading for my .223, the performance of my hand loads so far outreached the performance of factory ammos that I stopped buying any more factory ammo.

 

[jehu]

I had a Tikka T3 stainless lite that would not group well with the 55gr bullets and it was 1:8 twist. Move up to the 62gr or heavier bullets and you should be fine.