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Help, Mauser won't eject
- Thread starter STEVE M
- Start date
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Steve, about 70% of the time ejection problems are actually extractor problems. The question is whether the empty is dropping into the action or just sitting there like an extension of the bolt. If it's dropping, it's the extractor. If it's just sitting there then the ejector is the culprit. The ejector can be lengthened and the extractor claw can be lengthened/adjusted to hold the brass firmly enough to be ejected. George
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Steve, you can add metal by welding up the end of it and then shape to original thickness and correct length. You might also be able to get enough length by "stretching" the ejector. Use a ball peen hammer and peen about center of it's length. Another thought that comes to mind is the bolt stop could be dinged up and keeping the bolt from traveling back far enough to eject. You could take a little off the front of the bolt stop to let the bolt go back a little farther. If you go this route work slowly. I wouldn't remove more than .005" between checks. George
You did not say what specific Mauser you had or what specific Mauser the replacement ejector came from.
Mausers look so much alike that we often take interchangablity of parts for granted, but this is not always so.
I once lost a Mauser ejector. It went flying off into some part of my messy basement when I tried to disassemble it and, try as I might, I could not find the little devil until it popped up months later when I was doing something else.
I got a new ejector from a man that sells parts at local gun shows. He had a whole bunch of them that varied in just about every conceivable dimension, including the slot holes. I bought two that were rather different and the first one I tried worked O.K., but I can see were this might make a big diffence if the ejector were to one side of the tolerance scale and the rifle at the other.
Admittedly, the odds would be against both the ejector in the rifle and a replacement being too small in some critical dimension, but it is a possiblity.
You might try taking these ejectors to a gun show were parts are offered or to a gunsmith who has a little stash of these, compare them to what you have and buy one or two that seem to be radically (by comparison) different. This might be easier and cheaper than trying to modify the ejector by welding, unless you are good at such things.
Mausers look so much alike that we often take interchangablity of parts for granted, but this is not always so.
I once lost a Mauser ejector. It went flying off into some part of my messy basement when I tried to disassemble it and, try as I might, I could not find the little devil until it popped up months later when I was doing something else.
I got a new ejector from a man that sells parts at local gun shows. He had a whole bunch of them that varied in just about every conceivable dimension, including the slot holes. I bought two that were rather different and the first one I tried worked O.K., but I can see were this might make a big diffence if the ejector were to one side of the tolerance scale and the rifle at the other.
Admittedly, the odds would be against both the ejector in the rifle and a replacement being too small in some critical dimension, but it is a possiblity.
You might try taking these ejectors to a gun show were parts are offered or to a gunsmith who has a little stash of these, compare them to what you have and buy one or two that seem to be radically (by comparison) different. This might be easier and cheaper than trying to modify the ejector by welding, unless you are good at such things.
The Mauser in question is a BRNO made 08/34 that I bought as a project rifle. The "new" ejector was ordered from Gun Parts Corp. I don't do any welding (anymore) but I am handy with a file and measuring tools. With the bolt back against the slide stop, should the ejector be flush with the bolt head or protrude from it? Mine is a few thousands short of flush so maybe some filing on the bolt stop is in order?
The ejector on my Persian M29, the only Czech Mauser I have, is flush with the rasied rim of the ejector slot, which is exactly .1000" from the face of the bolt.
When the bolt is slammed back against its stop, the ejector must be trying to push the cartridge out the full depth of the extractor with the assistance of the spring behind it.
My other Mauser bolts show the same configuration.
If yours is flush with the face of this ejector slot, it is correct. If so, the problem must be either in the spring or in the part of the ejector that is supposed to push upon the spring.
Like I said, the slots (its not a round hole) and the tails of these ejectors do vary, and if the spring is good and the front of the ejector is flush (or very close) with the rim at the ejector slot, then the problem must be in the configuration of the tail or the slot of the ejector.
When the bolt is slammed back against its stop, the ejector must be trying to push the cartridge out the full depth of the extractor with the assistance of the spring behind it.
My other Mauser bolts show the same configuration.
If yours is flush with the face of this ejector slot, it is correct. If so, the problem must be either in the spring or in the part of the ejector that is supposed to push upon the spring.
Like I said, the slots (its not a round hole) and the tails of these ejectors do vary, and if the spring is good and the front of the ejector is flush (or very close) with the rim at the ejector slot, then the problem must be in the configuration of the tail or the slot of the ejector.
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Steve, is it near flush with the face of the bolt or the outer rim? It needs to be even with the outer rim of the bolt. As Herodotus points out there are 4 different styles of ejectors in Mausers and the 2 for the 98s have oval or slotted type holes instead of round ones. Removal of metal from the bolt stop won't hurt it just go slow with it. George