Heat sources for stuck screws.
- Thread starter SIGSHR
- Start date
I rather take a beating than work on these.
It may not matter but depends on the screw. I'm glad you have it soaking and give it two or three days. Just me but I'd pass on the hot water and hair drier. As for a soldering iron They don't cost much and are better controlled. Wood-Burning iron might work as well. …..
After a time, get a proper screw driver bit/screwdiver A gun smith set is preferred. on your first try after the heat, place your screw driver, well into the slot and take a hammer and "tap" like you would a center punch. Try to turn it in while peening the head. Sound illogical but there are times when getting the screw to turn in just a little will loosen it up and allow you to turn it out. If you can just get it to move, it will come out …
Sadly, you may have to center drill it out and use and extractor bit. Oh heck, take it to a smith …..
Be Safe !!!
It may not matter but depends on the screw. I'm glad you have it soaking and give it two or three days. Just me but I'd pass on the hot water and hair drier. As for a soldering iron They don't cost much and are better controlled. Wood-Burning iron might work as well. …..
After a time, get a proper screw driver bit/screwdiver A gun smith set is preferred. on your first try after the heat, place your screw driver, well into the slot and take a hammer and "tap" like you would a center punch. Try to turn it in while peening the head. Sound illogical but there are times when getting the screw to turn in just a little will loosen it up and allow you to turn it out. If you can just get it to move, it will come out …
Sadly, you may have to center drill it out and use and extractor bit. Oh heck, take it to a smith …..
Be Safe !!!
This is a method I have never used. I have no experience with it It sounds like it would work. Other than that,you are on your own.
I must give Mr Guffey credit for suggesting it some time ago.
Mr Guffey mentioned using a carbon arc electrode as a contact to apply electrical current to the head of the screw. Its about amperage ,resistance,and heat. Its NOT about an arc.
An arc will crater the screw head. Switching must occur off the screw head.
An arc welder or 12 volt auto battery might be the power source.
That's all I can tell you.I never developed a technique .
More conventional: Set the gun up in a drill press or mill,spindle centered over the screw. Use a high quality,proper fitting power screwdriver bit in the chuck.
You don't turn the machine on .Put it in neutral or loosen the belt.
Use the spindle to simply hold the screwdriver bit square and centered,with some pressure down into the slot. Manually turn the spindle.
Another method of heating a part that can be messy and dangerous is dunking it in hot peanut or other high smoke point cooking oil,heated to smoke point,approaching 400 f.
Most Loctite will break at that temp. 400 deg f will not harm bluing or heat treat. Its an even heat,edges or thin sections won't overheat.
I must give Mr Guffey credit for suggesting it some time ago.
Mr Guffey mentioned using a carbon arc electrode as a contact to apply electrical current to the head of the screw. Its about amperage ,resistance,and heat. Its NOT about an arc.
An arc will crater the screw head. Switching must occur off the screw head.
An arc welder or 12 volt auto battery might be the power source.
That's all I can tell you.I never developed a technique .
More conventional: Set the gun up in a drill press or mill,spindle centered over the screw. Use a high quality,proper fitting power screwdriver bit in the chuck.
You don't turn the machine on .Put it in neutral or loosen the belt.
Use the spindle to simply hold the screwdriver bit square and centered,with some pressure down into the slot. Manually turn the spindle.
Another method of heating a part that can be messy and dangerous is dunking it in hot peanut or other high smoke point cooking oil,heated to smoke point,approaching 400 f.
Most Loctite will break at that temp. 400 deg f will not harm bluing or heat treat. Its an even heat,edges or thin sections won't overheat.
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HIBC,
I've done welding on a bolt head of stuck exhaust manifold bolts on vehicles. Possibly where Mr. Guffey got his info.
Provides a very hot, very localized heat.
Build small bead on top, and screw out. Works well.
The tapping on the head, while screwing in works sometimes too.
I've done welding on a bolt head of stuck exhaust manifold bolts on vehicles. Possibly where Mr. Guffey got his info.
Provides a very hot, very localized heat.
Build small bead on top, and screw out. Works well.
The tapping on the head, while screwing in works sometimes too.
7Mag,I agree a lot of miracles can be done with little weld,like removing a pressed in bearing race.
This is a little different.Its more like thawing a frozen pipe by hooking a portable welder to the stop box and the hydrant. Its using resistance to heat the screw.You do not want to strike an arc for the method I'm describing.
Just pass the amps through the screw.
This is a little different.Its more like thawing a frozen pipe by hooking a portable welder to the stop box and the hydrant. Its using resistance to heat the screw.You do not want to strike an arc for the method I'm describing.
Just pass the amps through the screw.
redlightrich
New member
Hello, I can't emphasize enough how important the correct fitting screwdriver tip is. sometimes, without heat, after applying a penetrating lube, you can have someone tap the top of the screwdriver handle while constant firm pressure is applied. A hand held impact driver does exactly this. They were used widespread in the motorcycle repair world. However, they are more expensive than a soldering iron. A cheapo soldering pencil can be had at HF for less than 10 dollars. Sometimes it is a giveaway with a coupon.
I would certainly stop short of stripping the head though. A competent smith could remove most any stuck screw without damage if he is given a good starting point.
If the screw head gets buggered up, then the price and time goes up too.
Determination and tenacity will get you far in life, as long as you understand your limitations.
Let us know how you do
Rich
I would certainly stop short of stripping the head though. A competent smith could remove most any stuck screw without damage if he is given a good starting point.
If the screw head gets buggered up, then the price and time goes up too.
Determination and tenacity will get you far in life, as long as you understand your limitations.
Let us know how you do
Rich
Goatwhiskers
New member
FWIW: Mix acetone and ATF 50/50, beats the heck out of kroil, WD40, and all the other penetrants I have tried. You do need a container you can cap to keep from evaporating. Heat on gun screws is often the only way to break a thread sealant. GW
A soldering iron isn't an expensive thing to buy. Home depot sells one for $13.
However, why the screw isn't cooperating is important. Rust doesn't get cleaned off with heat. The Liquid Wrench spray may not have gotten in far enough. Regular penetrating oil dropped on might work better.
However, why the screw isn't cooperating is important. Rust doesn't get cleaned off with heat. The Liquid Wrench spray may not have gotten in far enough. Regular penetrating oil dropped on might work better.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Red Loctite requires about 300 degree heat to break the bond. You have to move the screw while it's hot. My suggestion is a soldering GUN, not a weak pencil type soldering iron.
Heat the screw from the back side, immediately flip the gun over and turn the screw using the proper screwdriver.
Heat the screw from the back side, immediately flip the gun over and turn the screw using the proper screwdriver.
if the others had red lock tight good bet this one does. Heat is what you need. Failing a iron or gun to provide it jig up the action such that you can rest something flat on the local area then heat up whatever you have at hand hunk of something steel or even better copper in the stove and place on where you need it with a pair of vice grips or channel locks.
300 degrees might be the listed heat needed for red but I find rarely have folks done the proper thread prep / cleaning to maximize the bond you can get out of red when it comes to gun stuff -- done right you can often basically make a near unbreakable bond with red.
300 degrees might be the listed heat needed for red but I find rarely have folks done the proper thread prep / cleaning to maximize the bond you can get out of red when it comes to gun stuff -- done right you can often basically make a near unbreakable bond with red.