Hard time installing retaining and extractor pins!

Pistoler0

New member
I purchased my first AR, an AR47 that came minus the bcg (another post) so I bought an overpriced bcg online that I finally got delivered.

I purchased and enhanced firing pin and extra power extractor springs so I can shoot berdan primers and extract steel cased cases reliably.

It seems that the process of installing them would be straight forward but... MAN I had the hardest time installing the retaining pins!

The extractor retaining pin just would not go in. At the end I had to press it in with pliers, covering the jaws of the pliers with thin cardboard as to not marr the bolt.

And the firing pin retention pin on the bolt? I just couldn't get it in!! I bent the original one and ordered more from Midway. Still, I had to give it to da wife to install and go grab a drink becs I was about to pull my hair. She got it in, but cannot explain how.

Are there any tricks to put these in??
 

HiBC

New member
First,get a Sinclair bolt tool from Brownells, It will probably work OK wirh 7.62 X39.
Also get the cheap set of two roll pin starter punches ,They have a hole in the end that is a clearance fit for the pin to enter maybe 0 .100 inch Holds the pin square to start.

While you are ordering,order a kit of spare pins,springs,plungers.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ar-15-bolt-vise-sku749003708-34719-63186.aspx

I just make these as required. I drill a hole in the end of a 2 in long 1/4 -20 allen cap screw or equivalent

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007334547?pid=694883
 
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stagpanther

New member
It shouldn't be hard to install/extract the pins in the bolt, parts like the ejector and extractor have specific alignment positions for the pins to pass through and require the springs to be under compression when you do so, if you had to use much force there is the potential to bend the pins and bind the parts from operating properly. Get the bolt tool that allows for compression of both the ejector and extractor and be sure the pin is aligned properly before banging away at it, when properly aligned it should go in easily. As for the firing pin retaining pin--I assume you mean the pin that goes through the carrier? That can be a little tricky because in some split pin models they might require a little "jiggering" to get them to enter properly the hole on the other side of the carrier, sometimes putting a little pressure on the firing pin's lateral orientation helps to align the seating pin more easily. NEVER use any kind of blunt force to seat the firing pin retaining pin--if you bend it in the process that could alter the proper clearance/operation of the firing pin which free-floats in the bolt including potentially causing a slam fire or failure to fire.
 
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imashooter

New member
Firing pin retainers can be ezpz or a horror. Everyone has their "foolproof" method. Colt brand retention pins have always worked well for me for 2 reasons.

Ends are a bit more dull as compared to most others which allows for a smoother, less chance of hanging up, installation.
Weaker tension though not to the point where it's detrimental to function.
 

Erno86

New member
Using the tip of the firing pin, helps with removal and adjustment of the extractor roller pin.

After the bolt carrier group is put together...do a function test --- By holding the BCG in your hand, and whipping it down (so the bolt can move freely) to see if the bolt moves forward.
 
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Hawg

New member
The first time I installed my firing pin retainer I bout went nuts. Now it just slips right in. I don't know if it's the pin itself or I just got the hang of it. BTW standard springs extract steel cases just fine.
 

Metal god

New member
What stag said ,

BTW standard springs extract steel cases just fine.

Yep at least they should , If a stiffer spring it "required" . I'd think it's to help when the extractor wears some and on it's final leg . The 7.62x39 case is designed to extract easily do to it's tapered case walls . Now I might be talking above my pay grade but I'd think needing a heavier extractor spring from the get go would be a gas and gas system timing issue .

I also would never change any integral part of a new firearm until it shows it needs replacing or it has shown it will work and I then want to upgrade . This is to ensure the original parts can be used as spare parts later . This allows me to have faith they will actually work if I need to reinstall them .
 
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