Hard Chroming a Model 34

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Semper Paratus

New member
I have two model 34-1s; one a 2" and the other a 4". Lovely little revolvers albeit a bit hard to shoot well. The 2" has some freckling under the old Hogue grips and I was thinking of hard chroming it as a pocket/ kit gun for around the farm to dispatch a variety of unsavory and unhealthy critters, as well as a general kicking around piece. I can't stand for a pretty little blued pistol to rust away in my sweaty pockets or get torn up while I wallow around on the ground fixing some piece of equipment or another.
The 4" is cherry so I'm not messing. Thoughts on the hard chrome plan...probably would do matte. Any dimensional issues with revolver internal clearances? Which of the big names would you recommend for the project?
 
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ckpj99

New member
I'm friends with the guys at my local shop. I saw what I thought was a super clean Model 60, but the tag said Model 36. I asked to check it out, and it turns out it was the owner's personal gun for awhile. It was a blued 36 that had a lot of wear. He was sending some other things out for hard chroming, and decided to throw that in the mix. The only thing he regretted was that he got the trigger and hammer hard chromed as well. It didn't hurt the function, but it kind of ruins the Smith and Wesson look. It looked awesome, and from what the owner said, it's an incredibly durable finish.
 
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Bill DeShivs

New member
S&W hard chromes the hammers and triggers on their stainless guns.
I'm sure the little 34 would be great hard chromed.
Armoloy, Mahovskys Metalife, Metaloy are all good. There should be no problems with clearances.
 
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SaxonPig

New member
If you do it, please don't post photos without a warning in the topic title.

"Warning! Photo of S&W revolver that has been chromed."
 
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Jimmy10mm

New member
I think it is a good idea. Especially if you are going to carry it. Durability and corrosion resistance are good things in a carry gun.
 
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Bill DeShivs

New member
To those neophytes that don't understand-
The process of hard chroming a handgun is a finish upgrade. Most H/C jobs are done to a lightly bead-blasted finish which gives a very nice satin stainless look.
The metal can be bright polished, but it usually is not done.
Don't confuse hard chroming with bumper chrome-although tastefully done regular chrome plating can look very nice.
 
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SaxonPig

New member
I'm not confusing anything. I know exactly what "hard chrome" is and what it looks like. I do not care to see another nice S&#W with such a finish.
 
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Dfariswheel

New member
For a carry gun hard chrome has a lot to offer.
The gun is highly rust resistant and very scratch resistant.

Back in the early 80's when hard chrome was first offered to the general public one of the gun writers sent in a Model 36 for plating.
As part of his test, he carried it in a pocket with keys, coins and a small pocket knife every day for 30 days.
After the 30 days the gun was completely unmarked.

Hard chromed guns are easier to clean since fouling won't adhere to it like carbon steel, and the hard surface improves the smoothness of the action and reduces the amount of lubricant needed.
Hard chrome is one of the very few finishes that's really considered to be a true life-time finish.

Each plater offers different options on final finish, which range from the original satin smooth pearl gray to a stainless steel look. Some offer bright, almost mirror polish.

Of the available hard chrome providers, probably the best is APW/Cogan.

http://www.apwcogan.com/

Others with top reputations:

http://www.fordsguns.com/

http://www.armoloyftworth.com/Armoloy_WebDevelopment/Web_Pages/Firearms_Applications.htm

http://www.originalmetaloy.com/

http://www.techplate.com/firearms_pl.htm
 
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Bill DeShivs

New member
Electroless nickel (even electrolytic nickel) are good finishes, but they are not as durable as hard chrome.
Something I have advocated for years is UPGRADING the finish, if refinishing a gun. If you are going to use a gun, rebluing makes no sense-as bluing is fragile and offers very little protection. Upgrading to nickel, hard chrome, or nitriding makes a lot of sense. Please note that I am not speaking of collectors' guns, but user guns.
 
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