Hand Loads for .40 S&W, A good idea? (G-23)

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Dead-Nuts-Zero

New member
I just purchased my first .40 in a Glock 23. I have loaded many .38/357 and .44 mags. However it has been many years since I have worked the press. Does anyone find it praticle to load the .40 and if so, what is the most popular bullet for target with low recoil? If not, why not?

I enjoy a low recoil but accurate load for my .38 and .44 cal. Is there such a thing for the .40 and still have fun shooting? I know it's a little different concept shooting a defensive weapon (.40) vs a hunting (.44) or target revolver in a light .38 semi wad lead bullet.

I have noticed that the die sets for the .40 is not very popular in the catalogs. Is this due to the newness of the .40 or is there another reason it is not popular?

Has anyone worked up a light .40 load for target shooting in a Glock 23?

Sure would like to hear your thoughts before I go out and purchase dies and componets for my .40 S&W Glock 23.

Help me out here!

Thanks.......
 
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Handy

Moderator
Reloading .40 for a Glock runs the relatively high risk of blowing out a casing at the web and destroying your frame.

This risk could be mitigated by a very light load, but it still has to be somewhat powerful to cycle the gun.

I wouldn't play with it. The .40 Glocks are not particulary accurate guns and you will likely find the whole exercise frustrating. Buy some Whitebox and save the headache.
 
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Powderman

New member
Handy, I have to disagree with your post.

I have a G22 that I have fired literally thousands of rounds through, with no ill effects. My secret is simple: don't EVER load to the max, and use a good, tight taper crimp.

My favorite loads for the .40 use Herco and Alliant Power Pistol. I have loaded the full range of bullet weights from 135 grain to 180 grain.

As far as accuracy is concerned, I qualify with this Glock every six months using Winchester Ranger 40T. It is accurate enough to hold the center ring of a B27 silhouette at 25 yards consistently.

Some tips for reloading for the Glock:

1. Use ONLY jacketed bullets. I usually go with Montana Gold; they have worked well in my pistol. No matter what anyone tells you, do NOT use lead in a factory Glock barrel. This was told to me in class where I was certified as a Glock armorer, and in a direct conversation with one of the gunsmiths at Smyrna. If you MUST use lead, get a conventionally rifled barrel.

2. Remember the warnings in the manuals that say drop your starting loads by 10%? Heed them well for the Glock pistol, except when using Power Pistol--then drop the starting load 15%. It's called Power Pistol for a reason. If you're curious, I call it the H110 of auto pistol cartridges.

3. Watch your OAL. As a rule of thumb, I load mine until they fit into the magazine--no shorter.

Following these rules, I have experienced NO damage to my pistol, NO bulged cases, NO excessive recoil or any of the other things people experience with the Glock handgun. Remember, it is a .40. Don't try to hot rod the cartridge into something it is not. If you want a supercharged .40, get a 10mm.

Good luck, and congratulations on your purchase.
 
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AZ Jeff

New member
As a former user of a .40S&W Glock in IPSC (USPSA) shooting, I agree with what was written by "Powderman", but have some added comments:

1. Be VERY careful to watch for potential bullet set-back while chambering. .40S&W brass gets worked pretty hard in a Glock (they have loose chambers), and because of that, case mouth tension tends to go away pretty quickly (after just a few reloads, if you shoot full power ammo). Once the mouth tension is low, bullet setback during chambering is a real possibility, and that will cause your peak pressures to go nuclear, with the real possibility of a KaBoom.

2. Watch for case swelling down near the rim. Since the Glock chamber is loose, and the throat/feedramp is large, there is a fairly large section of unsupported brass on a typical Glock .40S&W barrel.

3. Stay with moderate loads if possible. It lessens the work hardening of the brass, and gives you a bit more margin for Kaboom protection.

4. If you want even more margin, buy an aftermarket barrel for your Glock. Not only will it have (conventional) rifling that is more friendly with lead reloads, but the ramp will be more conservative, as will chamber dimensions, resulting in less stress on the brass.
 
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the duck of death

New member
I have over shot over 45K reloads thru a G23 using a KKM barrel. DO NOT shoot hot reloads using the G barrel.

My minor competition load is 3.8 VV N320, Mt Gold 180gr CMJ, WSP, any case, OAL 1.125.

My carry reload is not recommended for barrels without good case support. This would include the G barrel.
 
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Dead-Nuts-Zero

New member
Some very interesting comments here. As a general rule (my rule) I don't Hot Rod much of anything that I do. :cool: I have reloaded enough to know that my perfect range of ammo accuracy and light recoil are far below the max. loads. I say this about shotgun loads and also my experiences (some , but not tons of experience) with revolver loading. I assume there is a point where a semi auto will not function well if the loads are too light. However there must be plenty of room on the low side of max to work up a few good target loads.

I have chosen to reload the .40 and I am well into making my selections of equipment. I will be looking and listening for some popular target combo's. I am not in a big hurry and I enjoy working up a load for a new gun. I think that's a big part of the fun of the reloading and shooting game.

I also hear you about the Glock barrels and the lead bullets. I would like to know, what is, or who makes the "popular" after market barrel for the G23? How much $ are they and who has the best buy. Are there any reasons why an aftermarket lead shooter is not a good idea? There must be a good reason why Glock uses their style of barrel.

Thanks for all of your comments. Please continue to contribute to my thread.

;)
 
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JohnKSa

Administrator
Glock says that the big chambers contribute to extreme reliability and that the polygonal rifling give higher muzzle velocities while being easier to clean.

You can reload without incident if you're very careful, but offhand I can't think of a touchier cartridge/firearm combo to load...
 
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Hard Ball

New member
I agree with Handy. Of all the different calibers Glocks are made in the .40 S&Ws are the most likely to suffer detonations and severly damage the pistol and the shooter. Using reloaded ammunition increases the risk.
 
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larryf1952

New member
I have never owned a Glock, but I have read extensively about them and talked to many other Glock owners. It is my understanding that Glocks were purposely designed for maximum reliability under any condition, which is the reason for the large throats and chambers. Unfortunately, this also seems to make them more susceptible to problems that occur from wide variations in ammo styles, bullet types and pressures.

I've been reloading the 40S&W since dies first became available for it, and I've shot it out of 3 guns...a Star Firestar, S&W 4006, and a Taurus PT100...without a single undesired incident. Most of my shooting has been with the 180JHP, since that's the bullet that was first available for the .40. In the past 5 years or so, I've also been reloading the 155JHP. I don't load weeny loads...I load normal "combat" type loads, the same type that I might buy commercially, or use for personal defense. I have also never shot a lead bullet out of my .40's. My favorite powders for the .40 are HS6, AA#5, WSF, and Power Pistol. My 180JHP loads run around 950 to 975fps, and the 155's run in the 1100fps range. I watch for overpressure signs, like elongated primer strikes and flattened primers, and all is well with the loads I've worked up in my guns.

Having said all that...sorry :eek: ...I'd still be leery of a Glock .40. If you're going to reload for yours, I'd probably adopt your approach and stay on the safe, albeit lower side...AND get a new barrel. Best of luck!
 
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wildbilltx

New member
Not a big fan of reloads at the moment

Went to the range yesterday to run a couple hundred rounds through my new HK Tactical 40 and look what I got!!!!!





Not too much trouble as I was able to pull the casing from the barrel---but was less than pleased.

Bill
 
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larryf1952

New member
Wildbill, was that one of your own reloads, or someone else's? It looks like the case separated at the rim, with an obvious bulge.
 
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TacticalReload

New member
Extra pressure + overworked brass = exactly what happened in that pic

If you load .40, especially in a gun with a loose chamber like the Glock, watch carefully for signs of weakening brass -- especially around where you get the smilies. If you start seeing a bright ring near the case head, chuck it.
 
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w4klr

Moderator
Reloads do void your warrantied Glock...

I've got the 23 also, excellent pistol. http://rmerck.photosite.com/myglock/ to see the factory tactical light and lasermax internal laser. Also has a 3lb trigger, grip plug and mag release extension. Almost the most fun i've had with my clothes on :D
 
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Haycreek

New member
Handloads for a .40S&W

I replaced my G22 and G23 with a Glock 37 in 45 GAP, the Glock 38 and Glock 39 , are on the way to your dealer. The 45 GAP is a reloader's dream , check out www.45GAP.com for more info. Just my personal opinion, I don't like the .40 S&W. :)
 
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