H&K P7M8 - tips & advice needed

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bk40

New member
I should be receiving my P7M8 in about a week. Anyone who owns/owned one of these pistols, I'm seeking any advice that will help me to "come up to speed" on this fine pistol.
I'm looking for such things as ammo recommendations, cleaning tips ... basically anything other than advice about learning the trigger. I'm planning on spending a lot of time learning the squeeze-cocking system when the pistol arrives.

Come on H&K shooters, help me out!
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bk40
 

Dave Finfrock

New member
We got advice. Really, you won't need much, the gun is easy to get used to.

Ammo-wise, P7s like it hot. When handloading, make sure you run it near full throttle; they shoot better than way. They'll take surprisingly light loads, but seem to show best accuracy near the big-end. They also aren't too choosy. My three P7s all shoot about the same. They like the same stuff and shoot to about the same point of impact.

Cleaning is a strange experience. The daily after-range-time cleaning is very simple. A quick brushing and a few patches down the bore and you're about done. Clean the carbon out of the feed ramp and the breech face and that's it. Every 500 to 1000 rounds you get to clean the mechanism. This isn't so fun. P7s are gas leakers and you're about to find out where it all goes. Use the supplied tools to clean the gas system (easy and no big deal), clean the firing pin assembly (once again, no big deal), then take off the grip panels...and deal with the mess. You'll be surprised at the crap that collects in the cocking mechanism. It won't effect the gun's operation, but it is amazing just how much fouling accumulates in there. Every time I take one of mine down, I start thinking, "ultrasonic parts cleaner..."
Just follow the instructions, you'll be ok.

The "continuous motion" system will imprint itself on you very quickly. These guns are very easy to learn. You'll forget to cock it a few times, but embarrassment will prevent repeats. After a very short while, you'll find more conventional handguns dull and colorless. The P7 is a jealous mistress. I don't buy into the "you should use this gun exclusively 'cause it's so different" mantra, but you won't want to shoot those other guns anymore. At least not until you get tired of looking for your spent brass. P7s have VERY vigorous ejection.
 

KNIGHT

New member
Listen to Dave. I agree with him,and I have studied this pistol for a long time. You just need to practice. You need to remember how much different the action is from an average auto. Go to a gunsmith that knows the P7 and have him or her show you the proper take down and cleaning methods. You must know this pistol inside and out. P7's are an investment at $1300 a piece. However an expensive gun doesn't always mean a tough gun, I have seen high dollar custom guns disintegrate because the owner decided to add just that little extra pinch of powder. Any of the various self defense loads out there will function reliably out of a P7 you even notice how wonderful it is at digesting the cheap stuff. I found the one I fired liked the Federal Hydra-Shok that I was using more than any other round, but everything I tried, from American Eagle Ball to the Federals, functioned flawlessly. The spot where the gas port is gets a little warm after about two hundred rounds but that was no biggie. You need to practice your reloading drills so you might want to invest in a couple of cheap magazines for practice, saving the originals for actual shooting. Remember a P7 is unlike any other weapon out there, so treat it well, and you will be well!

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FA-MAS is my friend.

[This message has been edited by KNIGHT (edited March 16, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by KNIGHT (edited March 16, 1999).]
 

Rodmann

New member
I use the supplied brush and cleaning rod (that flat cleaning device) to clean out the gas system, but I was having a difficult time cleaning the gas piston. That black stuff really sticks to the piston and is pretty difficult to take off. A trick that I learned is to take a scotch-brite pad (buy at a grocery store), use a little solvent and wipe it down... it cleans it right up. One thing that I will not shoot in my P7M8 is Speer Clean-fire primers. I had a couple failures-to-fire with some Clean-fire ammo a few years back. Comfortable holsters are kinda difficult to find, as the high center of gravity of the P7 tends to make it uncomfortable with some designs. Rosen makes a dedicated IWB holster for the P7 and I'd be curious if anyone has used one. For my P7 I use a Sparks EX and a Sparks 55BBruce Nelson.
-R
 

ATM

New member
Good advice from all, read and use it. I love my P7's. A big help with cleaning are the aerosol based 'blasters' such as Gun Scrubber and Break Frees Powder Blast, etc. I prefer the BF Powder Blast since it is less offensive to the nose. Any of them work great to clean the mechanism, and blast the loose powder oout of the cylinder (after you clean it with the tools provided). When using these blasters, remember to lubricate the gun real well, all will remove any trace of lubricant where used.

Mitch Rosen makes a special version of his ARG for the P7M10 and M13, since they are so top heavy. It has extra leather below the muzzle to act as a counterbalance. See his website for pictures, www.mitchrosen.com . My P7 and P7M8 are carried in standard ARG's and I swear by the design. It is the most comfortable I have tried to date, and the workmanship is flawless.

Concur on the ammo, the hotter the better. Remember these guns were designed for NATO spec ammo, which is hotter then SAMMI spec. Mine seems to like the lighter bullets, 115 grain especially. The 147 grain just did not seem to be very accurate, nor did they function real well. I think the gun is designed around the pressure/impulse curves of the 115/124 rounds, thus the cycling and spring rate are set for that.

Shoot them alot, P7's love it.

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Freedom is not Free
 

thaddeus

New member
Ah, my P7's, I am getting all wispy....

Dave, the way you explained the love bewteen owner and P7 made my eyes tear up. The P7 is a jealous mistress indeed...or should I say that the owner becomes a jealous master? You just will not want to ever use anything else.

bk40 - you are in for a great experience. Let me know if you have any questions. The P7 is very mysterious to even the experienced gun owner, so most people don't know how to do little things like release the slide or even more so: lock the slide back manually with no clip in it. You can miss out on the features if you don't have a good manual or someone to show you it all.

I have to add a few things and correct some people. I hope that no one is offended, I am just trying to help.
I have both the standard manual and the gunsmith manual for the P7 (m13). The manuals say in big bold letters "DO NOT SCRUB THE GAS PISTON CLEAN". It basically says that the gun and gas system are designed to run dirty, and that the ribbed gas piston will get gunk in the ribs, but to LEAVE IT and do not scrub with any brush or abrasive. They don't say exactly why, but I believe that it implies that it is because by scrubbing the gas piston, you will wear it down and reduce it's effectiveness, and furthermore the fouling will not hurt a thing.
Scrape out the gas chamber with the awl provided and then the brush (only needed once in a great while). That is it for the chamber. Then wipe the ribbed gas piston down with oil as best you can with just a cloth. That's it, leave it a little dirty, the HK likes it that way. It is made to be dragged through a swamp, run over with a tank, urinated on, and that is when it really starts to perform it's best ;)

Not only that, but before I knew better, I scrubbed the gas piston clean, and within like 100 rounds it was all filthy again in the crevices! Talk about an exercise in futility. The gun is made to be run dirty (gotta love the simple German engineering) and takes minimal upkeep. The manual says to just take an oiled cloth and wipe the piston rod...that's it, leave the fouling in the ribbed crevices.

Lest anyone get the wrong idea, the P7 is a breeze to keep up. Regular cleaning and takedown is even easier than the Glock, with significantly less parts. For regular maintenance the gun breaks down to ONLY the slide, frame, and spring. Three parts, that's it! Piece of cake to takedown, clean and reassemble. Because it it so easy to clean and it is not a picky gun about a little dirt, It takes all of about 30 seconds to clean. I usually just take it down (similar style take-down as a Glock), wipe it inside and lightly oil it, grease the rails, and put it back together.

The exception, as mentioned above, is on the extensive cleaning routines every 1000 rounds. This is also simple, but a little more work. On top of the usual cleaning, remove the firing pin with a simple push and twist (the gun doesn't even have to be apart to take out the firing pin unit). And, also take the handle scales off and blow out the insides. That is it. And for me, it is an exercise in love that I actually look forward to. :)

Don't forget to put some grease up there in the slide rails - they are hard to reach but the difference is noticable when you get the grease in the right spot. The slide rails are hard to reach because the gun so low-profile that they had to place them high up in the slide.



I have a Mitch Rosen leather holster (on the belt, "Express Line" I believe). It works great and I use it IWB as well as on the belt. I bought it used and it has Leather Lightning in the inside, which grips the gun sorta like metal galling, but slips the gun right out like lubricant when you pull it. It is a good holster. The holster only grips the muzzle and gives you the ability to get a good purchase on the handle.

I believe that Mad Dog makes Kydex holsters for the P7. A Taylor Thunderbolt and an IWB from Mad Dog are next on my list. You can order them at www.mdenterprise.com. They have excellent retention and wear at a great price. Best in the world, IMHO ( I am a "Kydex man" myself).

The only thing I have ever heard of failing on a P7 is the springs - both the slide spring getting short and be sure to check the firing spring for cracks when you clean it every 1000 rounds. Spring wear does not surprise me, I keep a close eye on the springs of all my guns. These things are not living creatures (although my P7 talks to me sometimes ;) ), and parts like springs wear out. That is the nature of a tool that gets used.

The only part on my P7's that has rusted is the upper-back of the handle where the webbing of my hand goes (the "backstrap"?). I keep it wiped off and I usually don't have a problem. The corrosion is mainly due to my excessive fondling. I live right on the beach, and have had no other rusting with only minimal upkeep. Once in a while I apply Tuff Cloth or oil to the outside (anything wrong with WD-40 for such things?)

I would suggest that you not shoot lead through it. I have heard two rumors, but all I know is that the manuals say not to, and I am not about to risk my P7 to save a few pennies on ammo. One theory is that the lead bullets are too dirty and foul the gas system. I don't buy that, the gun runs great dirty and the gas system is easy to keep clean. The other theory is that the lead will buildup in the barrel and blowup the gun. Whatever, I would just stick to jacketed rounds.

I have been shooting the P7 M13 (more than one of them) for a couple years now, many thousands of rounds, and NEVER a single itty-bitty hiccup.
Just point and pull the trigger.

Everyone that shoots mine instantly hits EXACTLY what they were pointing at the very first time they shoot it, and then they turn to me and say "yep, that's an HK!", or something to that effect.

Need I say that the gun is a natural pointer, and deadly accurate? I just can't compare the accuracy to anything else I have shot, and I am no newbie to the handgun arena. Okay, I'll stop. I get a little over-excited about my P7's.

I would suggest that you spend some time firing rapid fire or 'double taps' and get a feel for how quickly the P7 indexs, how low the muzzle flip is, and how you can stack bullets in fast pace firing. IMHO, that is the best overall feature of the P7, and that feature is it's combative highlight. You can instantly stack 4 rounds of 9mm into the heart at 7 yards without even trying. With some practice you can do even better at longer ranges.

You wanted some information....how is that for a start? ;)

Enjoy!
thaddeus

Ps- lets take bets on how long it takes before you sell all other handguns you own and insist on shooting nothing else but the P7. It's addictive! ;)



[This message has been edited by thaddeus (edited March 16, 1999).]
 

ClydeVA

New member
OK,
BK40 go back and read the Thadd's comments I can not add much. I bought a used P7M13 a couple of months ago, my first chore was to clean it. READ THE MANUAL is all I can say, it is not hard to clean at all but you will appreciate it more after READING THE MANUAL. I sent mine back to HK to insure that it was safe to shoot due to build up on Piston - The first thing the man at HK said was "You didn't scrubb the piston did you?" I had not.
You will love it. I use a bladetech Kydex Holster for competition and have not picked a carry holster YET.
 

Ankeny

New member
Yeah, I like my P7M8 too. I had a problem opening the action when it was new in that it was very stiff and you could feel the ridges on the gas piston grinding on metal when the slide was pulled back. I was also getting some pretty lousy accuracy, so I sent the gun back to H&K for repairs.

The folks at H&K wouldn’t tell me what factory specs are for accuracy. They did tell me most guns shoot very accurately, but the gun is built for military and police use so the factory spec for accuracy is not as small as you would suspect. Anyway, they returned a test target fired with Winchester 115 grain Silver Tip HP ammo. All I can say is wow; the gun is very accurate with the right ammo. However, with the wrong ammo my particular gun shoots 4 inch groups at 25 yards. As for the “grinding” the guy at H&K told me to just shoot it to break it in and it would become very smooth. He was right. Also, keep the gas system clean, but as Thaddeus cautions, do not use abrasives on the tops of those funny little ridges.

While I was tinkering around trying to find the most accurate load, I had occasion to speak with an armorer for the Illinois State Police. They have seen several thousand P7’s and are pretty much the authorities on this weapon on this side of the Atlantic. It seems the accuracy potential for this gun does indeed vary widely so hope you get a good one. Having said that, even a mediocre P7 is going to be as accurate as a Glock or Sig anyway.

I did get some tips from the folks at H&K. First, don’t shoot lead ammo, period. The lead will foul the orifice in the gas system and you will have to return it for repairs. Next, the folks at H&K told me not to reload the cartridges fired in the P7. The technician indicated the fluted chamber might eventually cause the case to fail where the flutes begin. I have examined my cases and sure enough there is a ring around them in that area. I suppose the fear is that instead of cases wearing out by splitting at the mouth, they might separate in the middle. As you know, the P7 ejects with vigor and I suppose you could eject part of a case and have to send the gun in to get the rest of the case removed. I kind of think the reloading advisory could be a fairy tale spun out of concern over product liability so you be the judge.

For what it is worth, the armorer in Illinois told me one of the most common problems he sees is improperly installed grips. The grips are actually part of the rail system so be sure you get them on right and tight. Another little tip, it is very easy to change the front sight to adjust the elevation and the roll pin insures you will get it centered every time. After you settle on the load you want to use, shoot a group at 25 yards and measure from the center of your group to the center of the point of aim. Simply call H&K and they will tell you the height of the front sight and you can regulate your sights. They have an assortment of sights that will move the point of impact in two-inch increments. Also, my rear sight has a set screw on top of the sight to prevent movement if the gun is dropped. Some guns are imported that do not have this feature. I would suggest you get a sight with the set screw. On my gun, if you hit the sights with a hammer they will break before they move. As for holsters, I really like the one I got from Milt Sparks.

I have fired a couple of thousand rounds of every type of ammunition you can imagine and to date I have not had even one malfunction. The P7M8 is very enjoyable to shoot and can be mastered very quickly. I love the ergonomics and it is the coolest handgun I have ever owned.
 

SAWBONES

New member
Agree with most of the above. I have had my P7M8 for over 13 years. I had it hard-chromed the first year I bought it, and would recommend this highly, since the standard "H&K black" finish doesn't hold up too well. The squeeze-cocking mechanism underneath the grip panels (or "shells", as the manual refers to them) collects a lot of firing residue, but this doesn't affect function or feel in the least. If you notice the grip screws backing out under recoil, try a tiny bit of GunTite (LockTite for guns, available from Uncle Mike's). About the gas piston; DON'T scrub it with anything abrasive. Doing so will lessen the height of the piston flanges and affect the efficiency of the gas seal. It's alright to use a brass brush on it, though this won't get it entirely clean. After a certain amount of residue buildup occurs (it actually "bakes on", due to heat and pressure) on the flange edges, I've taken to carefully scraping it off with a flattened IV needle. You can get such things via medical supply stores. I recommend a 14 or 16 gauge needle. One will last forever, and the reservoir base serves as a convenient handle. Anyway, cut the needle off so it's about an inch long, using a sharp cutting pliers, and you'll get a perfectly-sized scraping tool for the purpose, since the hollow needle will flatten at the cut. You might alternatively try a dentist's scaling tool, but it doesn't work as well. The dried on, hardened residue will "flake" off using this tool, and the piston flanges won't be harmed at all. Like I say, I've been doing this sort of care with mine whenever the crap builds up on the piston, and the gas piston on my P7M8 is still shiney silver, with no wear at all. While the above may sound like a bit of trouble, it actually only needs doing rarely, perhaps once or twice a year. (Though I don't mind cleaning guns anyway; It's sort of a "meditative" experience for me.) You may also want to get some hard cotton swabs (not Q-Tips, or the like, since the cotton decompacts too easily, and strands may come off in your gun), again avalable as a medical-supply item, or (overpriced) from Glockmeister, for the purpose of cleaning the very bottom of the gas chamber. Again, probably needs doing once a year. If all of the above sounds like too much trouble, it really isn't, though admittedly it's more trouble than cleaning Glocks. The P7M8 is a very special sidearm, and well worth a little special care. Its accuracy is better than any other handgun I own or have owned, including two Sig P220s, a Sig P225, and 4 Glocks (19s, 23s, and a 27), to say nothing of various Berettas and S&Ws (semi-autos and .38 Sp. revolvers), and its precision is high. (Incidentally, I have yet to see a "gunwriter" in any of the "gun rags" use these terms correctly. Accuracy, as pertaining to firearms, is the degree to which shots cluster at point of aim. Precision is the degree to which they all go in the same hole. Most guns are fairly precise if not accurate, as for instance when a "test target" is shown in some publication, with a 2" group which is low & left: that's precise but not accurate, whereas if the gun shot a group which was evenly spread around the bullseye, say a 5" shot spread, but all within the black, it would be considered pretty accurate but not precise.) Anyway, the P7 is both accurate and precise. I've used mine, in front of witnesses, to entirely shoot the 2" bullseye out of a target at 15 yards, by shooting around the perimeter of the bullseye, essentially cutting it out of the target, without ANY fliers going into the center of the bullseye or outside the perimeter. That's surgical precision! (Yes, I was having a good day, and no, I don't consistently shoot that well.) Finally, as to preferred commercial loads, the Remington Golden Saber 125 gr +P is the most consistently-accurate load in mine, and it has excellent external-terminal ballistics. Sorry to be so long-winded in this post, but I see several other people here are waxing eloquent about the P7 too. It's such a good gun that we want to "brag on it"!

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"Potius sero quam nunquam."
 

Dave Finfrock

New member
You have to love the owner loyalty the P7 inspires. Gives me a real warm and fuzzy.

I may as well pass on my experiences in handloading for the P7. It does have some quirks. Some concern for brass longevity has been expressed. I don't think this is much of an issue. The chamber is fluted, but it's not as oversize as HK rifles. Brass is easily resized and reloaded. As for life, well, the brass won't be around long enough to worry about it. The P7 has very vigorous ejection (endears you to the shooters on your right...) and brass recovery rates are quite low. I generally only find about half of my spent brass, and that's on a good day. One thing to watch out for, though, and that's the feed ramp of the P7. It isn't fully supported, so don't get too carried away loading it up. When we were horsing around with 88gr. bullets, we had one series of handloads that scared the daylights out of us. This load was HOT, but showed no signs of case failure in HK P9s or Steyr GBs. It was, however, bulging the case head into the feed ramp of the P7s. The P7 isn't the gun to go exploring the stratospheric reaches of the maximum loads in old reloading manuals. We did manage to make the P7 malfunction, but only with loads of 115gr bullets at about 750fps. It would begin to short-cycle, particularily in cold weather.
Anything above this functioned perfectly.

The gas piston of the P7 is hard-chromed, so you'd really have to work at it to damage the thing. Still, it's best to leave it be. If you were to damage the "ridges" of the piston, it could affect functional reliability. This is the labyrinth seal that allows the thing to keep the action closed during peak pressure. It also functions as a buffer during recoil. We used to soak the piston overnight in solvent, and it does get the crud off, but it's a waste of time in the long run. As soon as you shoot it, you're back where you started, and the gun doesn't care regardless.
 

bk40

New member
I asked and you guys delivered!
Pretty obivious the P7 stirs a passion with its owners - I cannot wait to start my love affair with mine.
Thanks for sharing!
Dave Finfrock - 2x
KNIGHT
Rodmann
ATM
thaddeus
ClydeVA
Ankeny
SAWBONES

I appreciate every tidbit you guys had for me. It will no doubt make it easier more me to learn the nuances of the P7M8.

Any more suggestions? Let 'em rip.


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- bk40
 

thaddeus

New member
I have been reloading since I bought my first P7 and think nothing of it. I don't "experiemnt" with my loads, I just pump them out carefully for cheap ammo. I have never had a problem with my P7 and reloads, and yes, the brass are VERY hard to find!
When I find a P7 brass though, I chortle a little, because it has these cool looking powder burns on the sides or the brass in a "srtiped" pattern from the fluted chamber. Makes me giddy! (But not so giddy as when I blow the black center clean out of a target at a combative rate of fire) :)

thaddeus
 

SAWBONES

New member
Forgot to comment on holsters. I had a bagfull, and recently just threw 'em out, since I don't use 'em anymore & couldn't find anyone to give them to (left-handed).
If you like IWB holsters, Milt Sparks good old Summer Special is OK. I used to use it when I had no extra baggage around the middle, and it was only modestly annoying. I tried several types of IWB holsters, and never found one that wasn't a compromise, trading better concealment for annoyance, though.
If you have any fat around your waist at all ("love handles" or bigger), you probably won't like an IWB for this gun. It's very "butt-heavy", which with its short frame, makes it a pistol that tends to tip outward when holstered. Stiffer holsters, worn on (outside) the belt, seem to do the best job for me.
So far, the Kydex holsters offer the best comfort-fit-concealment combination I've found, for instance, Blade-Tech's belt holster in an "FBI" cant. Their mag pouch for this gun is also well made. Ken Null (who now has a website, finally) is good for a particular covert type of shoulder holster for this gun, made of polymer, if you need that type of rig, though a belt holster is the better choice for regular wear.
Finding the best holster for this gun is important, and not an easy choice.

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"Potius sero quam nunquam."
 

Rodmann

New member
Another item about holsters and P7M8's are that the M8 magazines have a little tab extension on the left side of the magazine. I've found that this tab sometimes gets in the way when you are withdrawing a mag from your mag pouch. The late Bruce Nelson used to add an additional lip to his P7M8 mag holders which took care of the problem. I haven't seen any other holster makers really take this into account when they design a M8 mag pouch...sure they give room for the lip, but not really a channel for it to glide in and out smoothly. The one I use now is a Blade-tech Kydex mag holder and seems to work pretty well without it hangups. Only other thing I have to mention about P7M8's are that the edges are pretty sharp. The PSP's that I've looked at have a bit softer edges, and in fact have an additional bevel on the lower edges of the slide. IMHO -I think the perfect P7 would be a dehoned, hard chromed M8 or PSP with trijicons.
-R

[This message has been edited by Rodmann (edited March 18, 1999).]
 

HKIL

New member
Hi all, I'm new here.
You guys are saying that you can put anything through the P7's, I've heard some people say that they are very picky and require only quality non reloaded ammo.
I once shot Sellier & Bellot in my P7, and had a very difficult time cleaning the gas piston.

What do you guys think of shooting Sellier and Bellot thru the P7?

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HKIL
 

Greg Bell

New member
S+B ammo is fine. However, DO NOT CLEAN THE GAS PISTON!!! The manual says no---and furthermore, it is not neccessary!!! I have owned 3 P7 ( my fave now has about 10-15k on it). I have never, ever cleaned a gas Piston. You should clean the cylinder, but only every 500-1000 rounds.

Tyhe factory says don't shoot reloads--just like every factory. The only thing you should avoid ( I suppose) is all-lead bullets. However, I have never tried. I have fed some really, really crappy ammo through my p7s through the years (Some stuff I am ashamed of). Don't worry about it, just clean it as recomended. The people who complain about the gun's picky-ness have never owned one. It is just a bunch of gun-shop hooey :). You will probably find some Glock-crazy goof ball complaining about the gun being "too complicated." I usually ask whether they would prefer a Lexus or a Yugo? The Lexus is a hell of a lot more complicated--so I guess the choice is obvious. Enjoy your P7--and read that manual.
 

Stephen A. Camp

Staff In Memoriam
Greetings, all. I,too, am a satisfied P7 user and as others have noted, I disagree with Ayoob's caveat that this gun be used exclusively for self-defense due to its unorthodox manual of arms; I've never had any problem making it fire at speed. It is my "bedside" gun as it's perfectly safe and if needed, I get the advantages of single-action firing! Its 9 rounds of +P Cor*Bon 115 gr JHPs or Triton's Quik-Shoks seem ample for their job. One thing have learned with regard to cleaning: When one scrubs off the piston, be sure to completely dry it. It seems to build up less carbon that way. These are fine weapons and overlooked far too often in my opinion. Best to all.
 

Highpower1

New member
BK40, thanks for posting this, you must have ESP, because I was going to post basically the same question.

I do have a question to add to this post though on a personal note. I am looking at buying a used German Police P7M8 for 900.00 here.

I was wondering if I'm getting a good deal? I am basically familiar with this gun, but you guys that wrote to this topic obviously know alot more about the P7M8 than I do. What do you think? I understand the P7 is in great shape. I can't wait to look at it now

Thanks again for writing this post and all the responses. I know I learned alot from it.
 

Jeff OTMG

New member
HP1 - If that price was for one of the P7 police turn ins that are showing up that is WAY too high. That is not even that great a price on one that is NIB. The turn in is identifiable by a small mill mark on the right side of the slide near the muzzle end. David 'Doc Walther' Avery from McKinney, Tx had them at the Austin, Tx gun show for $689. If your guy wants $900 be sure he includes vasaline. Thousands of these guns are coming into the country and that is dragging down prices of all the P7's. 400 SIG P210's came in and the refinished guns are going for $900 now, 9 months ago they were $1100, and the used ones are $750. The NIB P210's are down to $1300, I saw a new model in Houston with 50 rounds through it for $1100. A year ago those NIB guns were $1600-$1800, they have lost nearly a third of their value and only 400 used ones showed up for a limited market. Think what 1000 or 2000 P7's will do. I predict that P7's will be around $500-$600 within a year, maybe less.
 

Highpower1

New member
Jeff,

Wow, thanks alot for that bit of info. I appreciate that. I think I'll be shopping around alittle more.

This is why I love the firing line. You guys speak the truth.

Thanks again
 
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