Gun safe help needed please

[whitearrow]

Ok guys I've bought a browning medallion m62 safe. I wanna put something under it to prevent rust from forming to raise it off the floor some. I've narrowed my search down to 4" magic sliders with a weight capacity of 3,200lb or hockey pucks. What do y'all think about these 2 options??
Thanks,
BigEd

 

[FITASC]

Rubber horse stall mat works well too. If you want to really raise it off the floor, make a platform from 4x4s with a sheet of plywood and the mat in top of that.

 

[whitearrow]

Thanks fitasc but was really trying to avoid anything right up against the steel for airflow purposes. Hence my (2) narrowed options at the corners and maybe one in the middle of the safe.
Thanks,
BigEd

 

[Reloadron]

I would just set it on a few hockey pucks. My safe is lagged to the concrete and I never gave it much thought. Now I will lay awake wondering if there is any rust under it.

Ron

 

[TXAZ]

Spray the bottom with a rust inhibitor if they didn't already do it, assuming you can get to it.
The mass and difference in the thermal properties of steel and concrete virtually guarantees on high humidity days with big temp swings there will be some moisture there.
As above any air gap will also help.

 

[whitearrow]

Being that my safe weighs 1,500 lb empty wonder if the hockey pucks will give or deform any under the weight? I know the magic sliders are supposed to hold 3,200 lb. I'm sure I'm wayyyyy overthinking this thing but once it's there it will be a semi permanent deal and won't move again til I move addresses.
Thanks for hanging in with me on the deal fellas and keep the thoughts coming please,
Big Ed

 

[precision_shooter]

What is the floor made of that it's going on?
Bare concrete?
Hardwood?
Carpet?

If you don't have a solid base underneath, like concrete, the options you listed aren't very good. Put too much weight over a small area and will likely lead to other issues down the road. Sinking into carpet and pad underneath, breaking/cracking hardwood flooring, etc.

A rattle can, maybe 2, of Plastidip to coat the bottom would be sufficient to provide a moisture barrier between steel and floor.
Other options are roll-on bedliner or epoxy garage floor coatings.

 

[T. O'Heir]

"...to prevent rust from forming..." Rust requires moisture to start. Air flow won't matter one way or the other if the room is humid/damp/flooded. Where the thing is going is more important. Anyway, a couple 4 x 4's will do. It not come on a wee skid?
"...safe weighs 1,500 lbs. empty..." How you planning on lifting one side of it to slip a puck under? However, a puck can reach 100 MPH in a game. A 1500 lb. safe isn't going to bother it.

 

[whitearrow]

My dudes installing it are using the slikstick,Teflon coated on hardwood skids, system where they more or less make a set of train tracks to where they wanna go and spray the Teflon with wd-40 to lube them and push away.

 

[whitearrow]

Sorry shooter the floor is faux hardwood over a concrete slab.

 

[reynolds357]

Set it on the floor and anchor it to the floor with a proper anchor kit. A non anchored, elevated safe will take me 10 minutes or less to crack.

 

[whitearrow]

If you want it that bad it doesn't matter what its anchored with. Just trying to keep the local meth/crack heads at bay till the authorities arrive as the ADT system is beeping the whole time. Nice to put yourself out there bud. Obviously you have skills to post up like that.
Thanks,
BigEd

 

[precision_shooter]

Faux hardwood floor... do you know the pressure limits per square inch or square foot that the flooring is rated to withstand?

1,500 lbs, plus everything you put in it, call it 2,000lbs sitting on 4 2.5" diameter disks sounds like a lot to ask the floor to hold up to.
Maybe it will work fine, but me, I'd rather stretch that weight over a larger contact area.

 

[Reloadron]

Precision_shooter makes an interesting point. A 2.5" diameter pad has an area of about 4.91 Sq. In. While not likely if we assume uniform weight distribution each pad will see about 500 Lbs or roughly 100 Lbs per square inch. Actually not that bad. Unless I screwed the math.

Ron

 

[joed]

That safe is probably not as heavy as you think. I have a fair sized one that I've owned for 10 years. I was in a state of panic the first time I moved and looked all over for someone to move it. Luckily one of the places that build safes laughed and told me 2 guys could move it easily.

Once all the guns are out of it the safe is a lot lighter. Then I was told the door lifts off reducing the weight by another 200 lbs. I can easily move it around the room myself like this. I may do the hockey puck idea.

 

[whitearrow]

Just going by the manufacturer suggested weight. Also brownings come mounted to a 3" or so steel pedestal at each corner. Wondering how it would differ replacing the steel pedestal with a softer material?
Thanks,
BigEd

 

[Blindstitch]

4x4 wood is what I would use on the left, right and maybe back of the safe but then again if I made it to high it would become some sort of storage space like an under safe drawer.

 

[reynolds357]

Big Ed, one of my friends huge gun safes was hauled off before the sheriffs office arrived. It was much heavier than the safe we are discussing here. Don't count too much on alarms because they are easily jammed. Yes, I can get into a safe of the quality we are discussing here in less than 10 minutes of putting it on its back. The manufacturers tell you to bolt them down for a reason.

 

[tobnpr]

I used mica laminated plywood to get them off the slab. Keeping the thickness of whatever is used to a minimum reduces issues with the expansion anchors (or whatever you use) to anchor it to the slab.

If you've got an effective vapor barrier under the slab it shouldn't really be necessary, but an ounce of prevention... for that matter, I could have just used a sheet of mica to accomplish the same purpose.

 

[johnwilliamson062]

Set it on the floor and anchor it to the floor with a proper anchor kit. A non anchored, elevated safe will take me 10 minutes or less to crack

If you want it that bad it doesn't matter what its anchored with. Just trying to keep the local meth/crack heads at bay till the authorities arrive as the ADT system is beeping the whole time. Nice to put yourself out there bud. Obviously you have skills to post up like that.
Thanks,

Then get a number of security cabinets. Elevating that off the floor and not having it anchored is going to make it much easier to break into. Even meth heads have youtube.