Gun cabinet concrete anchors
- Thread starter redhawk41
- Start date
As part of my job i just got done moving a 20 foot tall dual cell robot with an elevated 15 foot long positioner.
I used one inch and half inch red heads. Couldnt be much easier, just drill your hole all the way through the slab with a hammer drill, and pound them in. they anchor themselves when pulled up (such as when you put the nut on top and tighten it down). The harder you pull the further the anchors spread. And once your done you just pound them level into the slab. If it'll hold our robot it'll hold a gunsafe
I used one inch and half inch red heads. Couldnt be much easier, just drill your hole all the way through the slab with a hammer drill, and pound them in. they anchor themselves when pulled up (such as when you put the nut on top and tighten it down). The harder you pull the further the anchors spread. And once your done you just pound them level into the slab. If it'll hold our robot it'll hold a gunsafe
Spahrtan,
Are you talking about something like these:
http://www.hilti.com/holcom/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-10278
I was also thinking something like that would work.
BTW, where I work we call them 'acorns'.
Are you talking about something like these:
http://www.hilti.com/holcom/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-10278
I was also thinking something like that would work.
BTW, where I work we call them 'acorns'.
westphoenix
New member
Some 3/8" diameter concrete anchors will work great.
Follow the directions, hole size and depth are important.
Buy anchors for solid concrete if bolting to your floor.
You drill the hole, tap the anchor in (with nut and washer in place).
When you tighten the nut the washer will hold the sleeve of the anchor in place while the bolt (or stud) part of the anchor is drawn upward, wedging the sleeve tight in the hole.
I like to use drop-in as they do not leave a stud.
Any one of these types will be fine, they are common in hardware stores.
Sleeve and wedge can be found in almost any Lowes and HomeDepot, but the drop-ins may be harder to find.
Drop-in (the ones I plan to use): http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/drop-in/index.htm
Sleeve: http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/sleeve/index.htm
Wedge: http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/thunderstud-wedge/index.htm
If you have a heavy safe It would be best to drill the safe holes (if not equipped) and floor holes while the safe is in its final resting place. Of course you will need to remove the safe contents and interior. Drill the holes and install the anchors. Placing a heavy safe on anchor studs would be difficult. With the drop-in type it wouldn't be as bad, but still easier to do it in place.
Follow the directions, hole size and depth are important.
Buy anchors for solid concrete if bolting to your floor.
You drill the hole, tap the anchor in (with nut and washer in place).
When you tighten the nut the washer will hold the sleeve of the anchor in place while the bolt (or stud) part of the anchor is drawn upward, wedging the sleeve tight in the hole.
I like to use drop-in as they do not leave a stud.
Any one of these types will be fine, they are common in hardware stores.
Sleeve and wedge can be found in almost any Lowes and HomeDepot, but the drop-ins may be harder to find.
Drop-in (the ones I plan to use): http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/drop-in/index.htm
Sleeve: http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/sleeve/index.htm
Wedge: http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/thunderstud-wedge/index.htm
If you have a heavy safe It would be best to drill the safe holes (if not equipped) and floor holes while the safe is in its final resting place. Of course you will need to remove the safe contents and interior. Drill the holes and install the anchors. Placing a heavy safe on anchor studs would be difficult. With the drop-in type it wouldn't be as bad, but still easier to do it in place.
Yea those are what i was talking about. Acorns huh? We just use red head brand so i call um red heads. i kinda like acorns though. Im gonna start calling them that and see if the maintainence guys know what im talking about.
Just make sure you have the nut low enough on the bolt that you're striking the bolt top and not the nut. We had a guy who just about halfway seated the nut on the threads and then started whacking away at the top (which was all nut). So of course he pounded the nut down into the threads, essentially making it one steel entity. He did this to 5 or 6 holes before i caught him. THAT was fun to fix.
Just make sure you have the nut low enough on the bolt that you're striking the bolt top and not the nut. We had a guy who just about halfway seated the nut on the threads and then started whacking away at the top (which was all nut). So of course he pounded the nut down into the threads, essentially making it one steel entity. He did this to 5 or 6 holes before i caught him. THAT was fun to fix.
On a floor standing cabinet we marked the hole positions and moved the unit out of the way. Drill holes with masonry bit, slightly oversized for the bolts we were using (1/2"). Fill the hole about halfway with epoxy, liquid steel or a similar adhesive that dries hard. Move cabinet into place, coat the bolts with a thin film of moly lube, drop bolts into hole. The adhesive is displaced by the bolts and fills the hole, surrounds the bolt. Let dry. To remove the safe, either grind off the bolt heads or use a properly sized box wrench with a very long breaker bar.
Similar techniques can be used with a wall-mounted unit, however anchors are probably easier to use (and cleaner).
Similar techniques can be used with a wall-mounted unit, however anchors are probably easier to use (and cleaner).
huntatnight
New member
You can also use the epoxy kind of anchors. I don't know what they are called but you drill the hole, drop in a provided steel or fiberglass type mesh, pour in the epoxy mix, place the threaded rod into the floor, and let it set. Supposed to be darn near impossible to pull out........My neighbor used those type to repair a wind-out veranda anchored in his house (brick siding) for shade in the summertime. He can almost pull himself up on the structure.......
UniversalFrost
New member
when drilling the holes with an impact I would suggest renting a hilti with the bits. This will "cut" through the cement like a hot knife through butter.
Thanks all. I was trying to narrow my choices but it sounds as if at least one person has used at least one of the many choices available for concrete anchorage. Kinda like asking "which caliber for ..."
I think for ease of installation and availability I will opt for the sleeve anchors (acorns).
And renting a Hilti is a major definite. I keep trying to get my wife to buy me one
I think for ease of installation and availability I will opt for the sleeve anchors (acorns).
And renting a Hilti is a major definite. I keep trying to get my wife to buy me one
Ditto that. When I was in the security business we used something called "Wedgits". Hole diameter was the same as the bolt (making it easy to drill, once the safe was in place)...Just drill the hole somewhat deeper than the length of the bolt, 'cause one you put 'em in they aren't coming out. This way you can pound them down fluch with the floor, if you ever want to "get rid of them.
We had a variety of unsuccessful attempts to try an pry these things loose. They MIGHT come out if you had enough leverage, but it would take more than a crowbar.