Gotta New Pietta Coming
- Thread starter Hylander
- Start date
I can't imagine you will need any extra parts.
However, I do think you should start improving your cleaning supply stash.
They require a little bit of cleaning; and then some.
As to the stands, a lot of them are useless.
Some of the best success has been building one. It just has to be built sturdy.
And that is the problem with the commercially available ones. Built cheap to sell, but not sturdy enough for the task.
dc
However, I do think you should start improving your cleaning supply stash.
They require a little bit of cleaning; and then some.
As to the stands, a lot of them are useless.
Some of the best success has been building one. It just has to be built sturdy.
And that is the problem with the commercially available ones. Built cheap to sell, but not sturdy enough for the task.
dc
bedbugbilly
New member
The only spare parts that I can think of are "powder, ball and caps". 
g.willikers
New member
The only part on mine that has ever needed replacing is the hand, due to a broken spring.
But without it, gun is not a gun.
Gun is a club.
But without it, gun is not a gun.
Gun is a club.
Just in case....
Cabelas has a set of internal parts
Lot of parts, most of which you will never need.
But at the price, somewhere around thirty bucks, it is hard to go wrong.
I agree with G.W. that the trigger/bolt spring is a good part to have a spare of.
Hand is another.
Cabelas has a set of internal parts
Lot of parts, most of which you will never need.
But at the price, somewhere around thirty bucks, it is hard to go wrong.
I agree with G.W. that the trigger/bolt spring is a good part to have a spare of.
Hand is another.
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I've had good luck with the cheap wooden folding stands, although it would be a simple matter to construct a better one. Either way they help a lot for loading. As for extra parts, you should be able to do a lot of shooting before you have to worry about that but do invest in a brass 3pc cleaning rod with muzzle guard. The chambers are easily cleaned by removing the 8" rod section and attaching the jag to the short handle piece. You also want a quality nipple wrench, and if you don't have them already get some correctly sized hollow-ground screwdriver bits for removing the grips, loading lever and trigger guard for cleaning. Enjoy!
g.willikers
New member
Are you referring to the pistol stand or the loading tool?
Both are described here:
http://possibleshop.com/s-s-pistol-c-b-supply.html
Both are described here:
http://possibleshop.com/s-s-pistol-c-b-supply.html
maillemaker
New member
Here is the loading stand I just got for my birthday:
http://www.biglube.com/BulletMolds.aspx?ItemID=1302742a-9e12-41e5-881f-f99340c6d9e6
It's great. It will do .44 or .36 cal.
There are only a couple of vendors out there that make these things correctly. It is absolutely essential that you buy one that rams in a straight line.
Many vendors, like Cabela's, sell these "swing" presses, but they swing an arc, and do not drive the ball in a straight line, like this one:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Revo...oading+stand&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products
They are junk. I've got one you can have for free if you pay the shipping. It will then sit and collect dust on your shelf somewhere instead of mine.
Steve
http://www.biglube.com/BulletMolds.aspx?ItemID=1302742a-9e12-41e5-881f-f99340c6d9e6
It's great. It will do .44 or .36 cal.
There are only a couple of vendors out there that make these things correctly. It is absolutely essential that you buy one that rams in a straight line.
Many vendors, like Cabela's, sell these "swing" presses, but they swing an arc, and do not drive the ball in a straight line, like this one:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Revo...oading+stand&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products
They are junk. I've got one you can have for free if you pay the shipping. It will then sit and collect dust on your shelf somewhere instead of mine.
Steve
maillemaker
New member
There are a few advantages:
1) It's just plain easier. You can develop much more leverage for less effort using the loading stand. When I try and load using the revolver stand, I place the heel of the handle against my gut and then pull the loading lever towards me. I always went home with a bruise on my stomach.
I guess if I was smart I would place the heel against a wooden bench top or something and push down on that. Even with that the loading lever on a revolver is not the most ergonomic thing to try and press down with your hand.2) It's easier to dump powder and bullets into the cylinder when it is out of the gun. There is no barrel frame in the way. Also the stand sits on a table which means the cylinder is pointing straight up and is stable and not moving around while you try and dump powder into the chambers.
3) It's faster. You don't have to handle the gun while you juggle powder and bullets.
4) It takes the wear and tear off of the gun for loading. I've heard some people say it's better for the gun and/or accuracy since you aren't bending it while trying to load it. I don't know how that strain compares to the strain of the explosion that it contains when it goes off but anyway there is definitely less wear and tear on the gun.
Steve
Powder inc has the best loader, enough said, quality product.
It does 36 and 44 and Remington and Colt.
From the above:
There are a few advantages:
1) It's just plain easier. You can develop much more leverage for less effort using the loading stand. When I try and load using the revolver stand, I place the heel of the handle against my gut and then pull the loading lever towards me. I always went home with a bruise on my stomach. I guess if I was smart I would place the heel against a wooden bench top or something and push down on that. Even with that the loading lever on a revolver is not the most ergonomic thing to try and press down with your hand.
2) It's easier to dump powder and bullets into the cylinder when it is out of the gun. There is no barrel frame in the way. Also the stand sits on a table which means the cylinder is pointing straight up and is stable and not moving around while you try and dump powder into the chambers.
3) It's faster. You don't have to handle the gun while you juggle powder and bullets.
4) It takes the wear and tear off of the gun for loading. I've heard some people say it's better for the gun and/or accuracy since you aren't bending it while trying to load it. I don't know how that strain compares to the strain of the explosion that it contains when it goes off but anyway there is definitely less wear and tear on the gun.
Steve
Steve said it as well as can be said, the only thing in additions is the replacement parts to ROA loading levers are not available from Ruger or others.
Makes a cylinder loader seem cheap when you can not find parts for a ROA or wait on them to come from Italy.
It does 36 and 44 and Remington and Colt.
From the above:
There are a few advantages:
1) It's just plain easier. You can develop much more leverage for less effort using the loading stand. When I try and load using the revolver stand, I place the heel of the handle against my gut and then pull the loading lever towards me. I always went home with a bruise on my stomach. I guess if I was smart I would place the heel against a wooden bench top or something and push down on that. Even with that the loading lever on a revolver is not the most ergonomic thing to try and press down with your hand.
2) It's easier to dump powder and bullets into the cylinder when it is out of the gun. There is no barrel frame in the way. Also the stand sits on a table which means the cylinder is pointing straight up and is stable and not moving around while you try and dump powder into the chambers.
3) It's faster. You don't have to handle the gun while you juggle powder and bullets.
4) It takes the wear and tear off of the gun for loading. I've heard some people say it's better for the gun and/or accuracy since you aren't bending it while trying to load it. I don't know how that strain compares to the strain of the explosion that it contains when it goes off but anyway there is definitely less wear and tear on the gun.
Steve
Steve said it as well as can be said, the only thing in additions is the replacement parts to ROA loading levers are not available from Ruger or others.
Makes a cylinder loader seem cheap when you can not find parts for a ROA or wait on them to come from Italy.
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Thanks, all...I didn't clearly explain my question.
I have a BP rifle which has a wooden starter ball for starting the ball or conical down the barrel.
One part of this is a three-inch shaft used to push the ball or conical down into the barrel until the ramrod is used.
So this wood ball has two parts: a metal cup to seat the ball, then a metal shaft to start the ball down the barrel.
Since the cylinder of a revolver isn't more than three inches, would this not work to load a revolver cylinder??
I have a BP rifle which has a wooden starter ball for starting the ball or conical down the barrel.
One part of this is a three-inch shaft used to push the ball or conical down into the barrel until the ramrod is used.
So this wood ball has two parts: a metal cup to seat the ball, then a metal shaft to start the ball down the barrel.
Since the cylinder of a revolver isn't more than three inches, would this not work to load a revolver cylinder??
I never found it to be necessary. Just place the ball and bring the lever ram into contact with it, and press.
It will be easier on the stand. Then you just drop the ball onto the cylinder, and press.
I think someone else mentioned a nipple wrench. Get one. But they are all the same. Cheap pot metal. You must use them with extremely low torque or they strip and break.
I have been assured that the nipples don't need much torque on them anyway.
I have made a high science out of getting them good and tight, without ruining the wrench.
dc
It will be easier on the stand. Then you just drop the ball onto the cylinder, and press.
I think someone else mentioned a nipple wrench. Get one. But they are all the same. Cheap pot metal. You must use them with extremely low torque or they strip and break.
I have been assured that the nipples don't need much torque on them anyway.
I have made a high science out of getting them good and tight, without ruining the wrench.
dc
Bill Akins
New member
Spare parts to pick up.
1. Extra cylinder hand (pawl) with spring.
2. Extra bolt/trigger spring. (The one shaped like a tuning fork).
(Both the above springs can also be made/bent, out of piano wire if necessary).
3. An extra trigger guard screw, because on the 1858 Remy, there is only one trigger guard screw to remove to get to the bolt/trigger spring, and this is the screw you will remove and reinstall the most often, so nice to have a spare in case the slot on yours gets boogered.
4. As already mentioned, a nipple wrench.
(Grease the nipple threads with a little (very sparingly) lithium grease or anti seize grease, teflon spray applied with your finger works too, so they can easily be wrenched out for complete cleaning).
5. Paperclips, diaper pins and sewing needles are handy for cleaning the nipples' large and small hole.
6. Wouldn't hurt to pick up an extra new hammer with the cam on it. Eventually your hammer cam will wear out, and it is much easier to just put in a new hammer that has a new cam on it already, than trying to drive out and press in a new cam that has to be pressed in, in the exact proper angle in the hammer. Been there with that situation on my 1860s'.
You can get most of the spare parts you will need, as a kit, as I believe one poster has already mentioned.
That's about all I can think of.
.
1. Extra cylinder hand (pawl) with spring.
2. Extra bolt/trigger spring. (The one shaped like a tuning fork).
(Both the above springs can also be made/bent, out of piano wire if necessary).
3. An extra trigger guard screw, because on the 1858 Remy, there is only one trigger guard screw to remove to get to the bolt/trigger spring, and this is the screw you will remove and reinstall the most often, so nice to have a spare in case the slot on yours gets boogered.
4. As already mentioned, a nipple wrench.
(Grease the nipple threads with a little (very sparingly) lithium grease or anti seize grease, teflon spray applied with your finger works too, so they can easily be wrenched out for complete cleaning).
5. Paperclips, diaper pins and sewing needles are handy for cleaning the nipples' large and small hole.
6. Wouldn't hurt to pick up an extra new hammer with the cam on it. Eventually your hammer cam will wear out, and it is much easier to just put in a new hammer that has a new cam on it already, than trying to drive out and press in a new cam that has to be pressed in, in the exact proper angle in the hammer. Been there with that situation on my 1860s'.
You can get most of the spare parts you will need, as a kit, as I believe one poster has already mentioned.
That's about all I can think of.
.
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