Got my new T-bolt today. Pics, and a question.

[Norrick]

I got my t-bolt in today (varmint stainless laminated). I believe it is a recently discontinued model. The only stainless model they offer now (on the Browning website) is laminated stock with a thumbhole. Anyway I put my bases on and this is what I see:

You can tell that it isn't perfectly contoured. I ordered them from Brownells and it said these bases would fit the T-bolt, the BAR, and a couple other rifles. I have also read other forum posts that say the T-bolt shares the same base as the BAR. Conversely when I look up the parts list from Warne there are different part #'s for the BAR and T-bolt.

The holes line up perfectly though and I've tightened them down to 25 in-lbs with locktite and they feel solid. Should I be worried about them wiggling???

Anyway I figured I'd still give it a shot so I continued to assemble and here are some pics. The rifle is wearing a Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40 AO (see link below) with Burris Signature Zee rings (high). The barrel is free-floated and the trigger is very crisp with nearly no overtravel. I can't say how heavy the pull is, but I think subjectively it feels quite light. I'm guessing 3 pounds. It is adjustable, but I have not tinkered with it yet.

I will be taking this rifle to the range to continue a writeup I've started on my new scope: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4085482 (box test will be included).

 

[Norrick]

cont'd

More pics

Here are some comparisons between the double helix rotary magazine and the familiar 10/22 rotary magazine:

The straight bolt is really unique. The locking lugs are the black round portions in the photos. The handle is a "hinged" to the bolt and rotates maybe 10 degrees to pull out the cross lugs, and then the bolt continues backwards. The cross lugs are connected to the bolt handle by a ball and socket joint as pictured. Its all very unfamiliar but I like it. I just have to figure out which portions require lubrication. I'm thinking a heavy grease for the ball/socket joint. The firing pin is cocked in the forward stroke when working the action. If you don't fire before opening the bolt, it pops back spring loaded somewhat. The firing pin doesn't stay locked when you remove the bolt basically. It still takes some force to pull the bolt back, so its not the type of thing that I can see happening accidentally. Right now the action is rough, but just from the last few hours of handling I can already see a wear pattern developing, so I'm optimistic it will break in nicely.

When I get a chance the range report will be included in the above link as a continuation of the scope writeup.

 

[Waterengineer]

Nice

Please name the camera (and lens) you shot those photos with. That is some pretty good photography - pretty shorp. You act like you have been around a camera before.

Oh, yes, and the T-bolt is nice pice of engineering that you whould be able to give to your grandkids some day. That is a purdy one I have not seen that model before.

About the sight bases, I'd be on the horn with Brownells having a conversation..........it would be nice if they fit a little nicer.....but for a 22 probably no big deal.

 

[Norrick]

I actually just use an older digital camera. Its a Fujifilm Finepix F700. I find the best photos come from using the macro mode (must be up close). I try to avoid direct sunlight, set the camera on a timer, and put it on a tripod to get the best shots.

I'll see what I can do with Brownells and the bases, but I'm really aching to shoot it.

 

[Waterengineer]

Thanks. The macro mode explains the shallow depth of focus. Nice. Thanks.