Got any favorite tricks, products or otherwise for AR cleaning?

(BH)

New member
I just finished up doing my initial clean on my new M&P15, and it got me to thinking about starting up this thread about cleaning and lubing tips, tricks, tools and products.

Got any signature tips or tricks?

What do you think the best solvents and lubes are?

Have you found any interesting doo-dads that help serve a purpose (ie getting to hard to clean spots)?

Got any other cool info that wasn't included in the above questions?
 

cornbush

New member
I used alot of q-tips and an old toothbrush. When I could I also had my kids clean it, made it sooooo much easier.:D
 
Cleaning tips:

Exterior of gas tube should be left alone - you are more likely to bend it than you are to improve function.

Interior of gas tube should be left alone - you are more likely to get something stuck in there than you are to scrape out something that isn't blown out by 15,000psi of hot gas.

Carbon build up is self-limiting in most parts of the AR and ARs have been run 10,000 rounds and more without cleaning. Don't get overzealous on scraping every last bit of carbon away.

Take the lower receiver. Turn it upside down and shake it vigorously so the large chunks of debris and carbon fall out. Remove the buffer and buffer spring and do the same for the tube every 2,000 rounds or so. Visually inspect the lower to see if you have any major gunk build up (enough gunk it looks like it may stop some moving part from moving).

Now comes the critical parts:

Clean the bolt carrier and bolt. Don't worry about the carbon on the tail of the bolt, the carbon in the hole on the bolt carrier that the firing pin goes through or the carbon on the firing pin collar. Do clean these enough that you can visually inspect parts for wear and tear.

Look for pits in the bolt face and tiny cracks around the cam pin hole on the bolt or at the base of the bolt lugs. Check the extractor claw for dings and periodically clean the carbon and other assorted gunk out from underneath the extractor. Look for brass marks by the ejector and check it for function.

Check the gas rings. It doesn't matter if they are staggered or aligned; but it does matter if they are worn. Inspect the cam pin for wear and tear on the top where it hits the cam pin recess and on the shaft of the pin. Wear and grooves are normal here; but look for cracks - those are not normal.

Lube the cam pin, gas rings and all of the bolt aft of the lugs generously (a visible coat of oil). Lube the "rails" on the bolt carrier group the same way.

If you want to clean the bore, the foaming bore cleaners work really well. I forget which one is my favorite at the moment as I am not that big on bore cleaning.

99% of cleaning an AR is giving it proper lubrication and inspecting parts for wear and replacing them before they break. Trying to scrub all the carbon off the rifle or get it white glove clean is a waste of time and money - and typically leads the user to do things that are probably not good for the long term life of the rifle.
 

kwells6

New member
breakfree/CLP and q-tips... and contrary to what some think, get all the carbon out, otherwise it has a nasty habit of flying at your face...
 

Palmetto-Pride

New member
This is what I do.

When I clean my AR I separate the upper and lower. Spray the Birchwood Casey synthetic safe Gun Scrubber on the lower to flush out any gunk and then re lube with their Barricade spray lube. Now the lower is done.

For the upper I remove the charging handle along with the bolt carrier group disassemble the bolt carrier group, spray the gunk with gun scrubber remove what carbon I can, but I don't get krazy about it. Re lube put back togeather and set aside. The rest of the upper and barrel I spray out the gunk with gun scrubber clean the chamber and bore re lube and put back togeather. I clean it like this every 500 rounds I have had only one FTF since I have had it(Its now got around 30000 rounds threw it)
 

lmccrock

New member
I take Breakfree CLP to matches for field expedient cleaning, but at home, Hoppe's solvent. If I am in a hurry, I spray the bolt and carrier with brake cleaner

Toothbrush or .45 chamber brush inside the carrier where the bolt goes.

I used to blow out the gas tube, but a long time ago, someone said or I realized that the thousands psi gas is doing more than I ever could. I rarely clean the crud off the tail of the bolt, although I guess I do not shoot enough because I have never had crud hit me in the face. Well, not in an AR. I overlubed an M1 rifle once and got a nice spray in my face.

Mobil 1 auto oil for lube. Cheap. A qt lasts forever, unless I accidently dump it on the bench.

I spread the gaps out on the rings, because it seems to make sense, but the gaps usually line themselves up after shooting a while and there has been no problem with function.

Lee
 

Willie Lowman

New member
No tricks, just a long through session.

I like to use Hoppe's bore gel on my barrel and #9 on everything else.

First I separate the upper and lower, remove the bolt carrier and handle. I run two wet patches (bore gel) down the barrel. I use a Dewey rod and always start from the chamber end.

After I run my patches, I get my #9 solvent, some Q tips, and a rag. I put down a cloth baby diaper to put parts on and to soak up drops of solvent. I disassemble the bolt/carrier and coat everything in #9.

I see what is on Vs. ... at commercial break I run a brush down the barrel a few times. Put a drop of gel on the brush so I am never brushing on a dry bore. After that, I run another two patches of bore gel. Put the upper down and return to the bolt.

I use Q tips to wipe around all the little corners. I then wrap all my parts in the diaper and go outside where I spray them down with break cleaner.

Rinse my hands in the sink, change the channel to Discovery. Brush and two wet patches to the bore again. Get more Q tips and clean the upper receiver. I use one of those Brownells gear shaped patches to clean around the locking lugs.

Check the History channel. Go over the bore again. Scrub out the carbon from my flash hider.

Lube the bolt/carrier with gun oil. Spray the trigger with Rem-Oil. Reassemble the bolt/carrier. Go over the bore again.

Run dry patches down the barrel and reassemble. I use lens cleaner that I got from my optometrist on my optics.

All the times I mentioned the TV, I take 10 minute breaks while cleaning. No solvent works instantly. The TV time lets the bore gel do it's thing to the copper and carbon in my gun. I would never try such a tactic with Sweets 7.62 solvent...
 
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